London to Salzburg on a bike - Stage 8 - Sarrebourg to Marckolsheim via Strasbourg - 131km

Back on Course - Canal Pleasures - 13th September 2013
Turning back the Lock - Ecluse going back to nature on Eurovelo 5

A nice early 7am Breakfast at the Hotel de France. Plenty of bread and coffee to set me up for the day. I was rejoining Eurovelo 5 today after my two day diversion through Metz. EV5 runs just to the South of Sarrebourg. I would have joined it yesterday at a Canal towpath for the run into town but it appeared to be closed where our paths crossed?
Need to concentrate or take a ducking
Lock-keepers house on the old canal
This morning it was 'course found' without any hassle and I set off on a fantastic bike route. A lovely old canal was the highlight. Now disused, it was fantastic feat of engineering with series of about 14 locks in quite a short distance. Beside every lock there was a keepers house. Must have been quite a community in its day. The path was a bit slippery after the recent rain but I managed to avoid taking a dip.There is a 'new' canal that runs just to the South. They replaced the series of locks with a boat lift. The waterways of Europe really are amazing! Stopped in Lutzelberg to pick up some water and provisions. Patisserie charged me 1.5 Euros for a small bottle of water so I went to the Co-p up the road which was more reasonable. Pretty little village though. Good spot for boaters to congregate. The canal path from here took me all the way to Strasbourg, about 60km. I did turn off at a couple of points to go through the adjoining villages but it was mainly a long flat route to the Rhine.
Le Boat rental
Heading down the Marne-Rhine canal - strange place names
Flatlands towards the Rhine
Passing through Saverne
Strasbourg was predictably busy and I did not stray far from the waters edge. To be honest I did not really know which stretch of water I was pedalling beside. I know I came down the Marne-Rhine Canal and that I was going to head off down the Rhine Canal. In between appeared to be just linking basins, some with massive Rhine Tourist Cruisers parked up.
Euroland in Strasbourg
Bikepath in Strasbourg
Had already pedalled 80km by lunchtime and a Patisserie appeared with a bike rack outside, perfect. Had a bit of trouble getting the grumpy Lady to give me a Jambon Baguette avec salade. She tried to give me Salami with Cheese and said that is all they had. Luckily the boss intervened and told her to go and make it which she did very grudgingly. Bit worried it might have an unsavoury additive but it tasted fine. Also had a lovely piece of pear Tarte and a coffee so all set for the afternoon ride. My next path, the Rhine Canal was very slightly uphill but an easy relaxed and very safe ride nevertheless. I do not have an aversion to hills but there can be real pleasure in setting a fast but comfortable speed on a nice flatish route and cycling along without a care in the world.
Following the Rhine Canal
Flashy lock on the Rhine Canal
Comfortable cycling on the old Rhine Canal approaching Marckolsheim
Marckolsheim
Marckolsheim Gite - not mine
Marckolsheim - my Gite - Rosinante is ready to roll
Marckolsheim - in the town
Did not see many other cyclists although I did meet up with a couple of other Brits on a European Tour. They were making an album and one of them, Paul Cheese, had a portable recording studio and a guitar on his bike. Their route included Edam, Gorganzola and various other suitably cheesey locations. They had just recorded a track in the European Parliament and were now heading South to Calmar. Did not join them, a bit too far for me today. Quite happy with my stopping point, the pretty little town of Marckolsheim. My Gite was very good, nice and rustic. It was run by a friendly mature couple. He was 75 and he had a large vegetable garden at the back of the property where he hid from Madame.  He told me that the village had been flattened during the last war and had to be re-built. Germany is just over there he said, pointing East. The couple spoke both French and German so I got by with a merry mix of the two. After the poor weather of the last few days it was nice to have a warm, dry evening to wander and explore. I enjoyed a good meal in the Auberge. I had a big salad and massive plate of Spaghetti Bolognese. Was going to buy some Postcards but it was Friday evening and the shop had a long queue for Euro-Millions. Even in a lovely French village? Quite a day today, plenty of distance covered, lots of interest along the way and very good cycling.
Location: Marckolsheim, France

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