London to Salzburg on a bike - Stage 5 - Bastogne to Schengen via Luxembourg City - 140 km

Leaving Belgium for the Grand Duchy - 10th September 2013

Sherman Tank Memorial in Bastogne

Bastogne to Luxembourg

Had a real struggle to get 'on course' this morning. I had downloaded a course for Eurovelo 5 before I left home. This so-called cycle route goes from London right down into Italy. My intention was to pick it up in Bastogne and follow it to Basle. Because it is one single file it is very cumbersome and Carmen takes about 20 minutes to calculate the route. I knew this before I left but I do not yet have the wherewithal to split a gpx file. So, I planned to have a stroll around Bastogne with the bike until the route calculated. That was fine. However, because it is such a large file it was difficult to scroll around on the screen to plan an entry point to the route. Admittedly a lot of the problems were due to my lack of experience. The good thing is that I now know my way around Bastogne pretty well! Not the prettiest place in Europe, it suffered a lot of  damage in the war. Wonder what it looked like before?

Which road to take?

Rue du Sablon in Bastogne

In the Place General McAuliffe

Anyway, it seemed like about an hour before I could pedal out of Bastogne on my route to Luxembourg City. The heavy rain had abated as I headed into the country. I was soon cycling on grass tracks and then cycle routes that follow disused tram ways.

On the bike route in Belgium

Taking to the Grass track

After yesterday's undulations I had expected more of the same today. Not a bit of it. There were some sharp uphills but in general it was a very gradual descending day. There was one long hill climb, out of Martelange, to take me into the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.

Luxembourg Bike Path - smooth riding

Luxembourg Farmland and my bike route

The rolling hills of Luxembourg - empty bike paths

On track through the tunnel

Grand Duchy is a posh prefix for a smart place. Famous for its radio station, for those of us of a certain age, it now has the highest per-capita income in the EU. Good that they are spending some of their wealth on bike paths.  It is about twice the size of Berkshire and I don't think I have been to a place with better cycle routes. Found myself powering around long sweeping turns, shooting downhill and whooshing up the other side. The surfaces were just perfect. There was also disused train line to steam along. The only downside was not many lunch stops to be seen. Then there was Luxembourg City. After the calm of the country and the manicured gardens and farms it was a helluva shock. Heavy traffic, buses and people of all nations to contend with on the cycle routes in the City. Nice Parks and beautiful old buildings.It looks as though it was built either side, and in, a Grand Canyon.

Luxembourg City

Luxembourg City from the ramparts

Luxembourg City to Schengen

Into Grape Country

I looked around the City for a couple of hours before heading for the large Youth Hostel, I needed to get back on budget after the recent nights in Hotels. Took a while to find the place and then surprisingly it was full! There was also a football match, a World Cup Qualifier against NI, on in the City so all the cheaper Hotels would be full of Ulstermen. My cycling was not over for the day! The next Hostel was near Schengen, another 40 km away. So that is where I headed. Having had no lunch I was getting decidedly peckish. Luckily I had some biscuits that sustained me as I headed down to the river at the bottom of the gorge and headed South. The initial route out of the City was very pleasant. By now it was the rush hour but fortunately my route kept me away from the worst of the traffic. I did end up pushing the bike over a cornfield at one point, all part of the Eurovelo 5 experience. Started to see plenty of grape vines as I approached the Moselle River so had a good feeling that I was making progress on my journey South. Eventually reached the Moselle and headed along a speedy bike path towards my bed for the night. With my head down and on the drops I only just spotted the sign for the Hostel off to the right just short of Schengen. Arrived at the door in the gathering gloom wondering if was open and if it had space for a tired and hungry biker. Happily there was room at the Inn and I managed to get a small dorm all to myself. I was too late for a cheap dinner at the Hostel but found a very nice Bistro up the road. A big day, a lot packed into it, but it turned out well in the end!

London to Salzburg on a bike - Stage 4 - Crupet to Bastogne - 97km - RV6 Picardie-Ardennes

Encountering the Ardennes - 9th September 2013

View to the West over the Meuse Valley

Crupet to Bastogne

Crupet Grotto in the morning sun

Do not let anyone tell you Belgium is flat. Anyone who thinks so has not been to the Ardennes.

Up before opening time in Crupet

Get your inner tubes here!

I made an early start at 8am as I had opted to skip the 12 Euro breakfast at my posh hotel. It was an up and down day in the watery morning sun, the mist just clearing. The school run is just like home, the Mum's rushing to get their little ones to school on time. Managed to keep out of their way and found a Patisserie in Hamois to take on some fuel about 9am. This town is on a major cycle path, an old train line, that goes North East towards Liege. I spotted a cigarette machine where you can buy a replacement inner tube so it is either a very popular route or someone locally is dropping tacks. Liege was not on my itinerary so I continued Eastward, on RV6, through very pretty countryside. There was a bit of a saw tooth profile to this section which meant long climbs and then long descents so it was pretty hard. On one such descent a vicious dog ran out in front of me, hope it learned a lesson. I think if I had been climbing, in the opposite direction, it would have taken a lump out of my leg.

Going Uphill - most roads are pretty good

View from the top

View from the bottom - a Belgian Stream

My trusty steed

Dense Forest in the Ardennes

Made it to Bastogne, turning point for the Liege-Bastogne-Liege Classic. Cannot claim to have cycled the pro's route but might just have crossed it? I found the Tourist Office, unfortunately they had no knowledge of  Hotel prices or availability but the Lady gave me a list of Hostelries to try. Any B&B's were out of town which is a problem when you need an evening meal. I picked a suitable Hotel nearby with a good place for Rosinante. Bastogne is where the Battle of the Bulge is commemorated. About 20,000 Americans died and it was their largest and bloodiest battle of the war. Many Americans still visit. One such family were on the next table to me at Dinner. It was a Mum and two sons who had an Uncle who had been badly wounded in a tank battle but did get home. Mum who was in her eighties was trying to keep her boys, one who was a Policeman, off the beer! I was on their side. Cheers! My Hotel Giorgo had a Pizza Restaurant attached so it was an easy walk to my evening meal.
My dinner was really great, I had a big Calzone Pizza and massive salad. Outside, the rain was setting in and was forecast to last for the next week. Ooerr!
Bastogne was where I would say goodbye to RV6, the Picardie-Wallonie cycle route. It continues to Wiltz in Luxembourg. Have to say it has been perfect, will miss the little Blue and Yellow (Ukranian Flag) stripes tomorrow.

That means you are going the wrong way at a junction

Follow me stripes, but no Roundheads allowed

Turning Point - Liege Bastogne Liege

London to Salzburg on a bike - Stage 3 Villers la Ville to Crupet - 93km - RV6 Picardie-Ardennes

Beautiful Belgium - Castles and Canals - 8th September 2013

Back to the Belgian Cobbles, a break before the bumps

After a good nights sleep and a hearty breakfast it was time to get back on the now familiar road to Villers le Ville Abbey to resume my trip across Belgium. Once on new ground a long stretch of pave had to be enjoyed, or rather endured. Fortunately, the roads were quiet on this Sunday Morning in September as I bounced along. I saw a quite a number of other cyclists on my Sunday ride but never any on the cobbled sections. Local knowledge perhaps? At Ham I joined the joggers and walkers along the River Sambre to take me through to Namur.

La Sambre River - Reflections on my Ride on the towpath

La Sambre River - Lock at this

There is a bike path along this river/canal that links all the way back to Tournai but it goes through very industrial areas. I chose the more northerly RV6 , a country route, and do not regret it. The towpath surface was a bit variable, smooth concrete then rough stuff. Some interesting locks along the way. Three big sliding door gates so they could use only half the 'ecluse' if there was only a small boat. I left my waterside route in Namur, where La Sambre joins the Meuse. I had a quick ride around town and found the Tourist Office. The Tourist Offices in Belgium are very parochial and only deal with their area so its difficult to get information on the road ahead and accommodation options. Looked quite a nice City but could not help noticing quite a few tramps with a fondness for alcohol at various points. After a pedal around town I headed down, or rather, up the Meuse. Somehow I had imagined the river would be flowing the other way? So I had a slightly uphill route on cobbles but still happy.

On the edge of the Sambre - Namur - approaching the Meuse

Chateau on the Meuse

I found a Patisserie near the Meuse and demolished a couple of Apple Turnovers. Many people were sitting out at riverside restaurants having their Sunday lunch but I was quite happy with my sunny park bench. Carried on up the Meuse to Profondville. I had noticed the name on the map, seemed quite profound. Spent a lazy Sunday afternoon around there. Pedalled down the river a bit further but the towpath became rough cobbles so I turned back. Certainly a pretty part of Belgium.

Nice riding on the Meuse

Found a Supermarket and bought a fresh baguette and some ham to eat down by the River. I did ask about accommodation but could not find anything available. After deliberating for a
long time I headed for Crupet, billed as the most beautiful village in Wallonie. Will not argue with that description. Getting there was a bit tricky though. Carmen sent me over a Lock and a long Weir followed by a steepish hill. Found a Hotel in Crupet with space for me and Rosinante. It was rather nice, over-budget but I had to have a phone. I needed to have a telephone because with a faulty mobile I could not text TW. She would be thinking there was a corner of a foreign field, or ditch or canal that would be forever England. Public phones have become a bit of a rarity now, particularly in Belgium and France. Had no success finding one that worked in Namur or Profondville. Not sure that some young people today even know what one is.

The Grotto at Crupet

The Devil is in the detail  - The Grotto at Crupet

With my call made and shower taken I retrieved Rosinante from her Stable and headed back into the pretty village. There is a very impressive grotto next to the Church, there is a medieval castle surrounded by water and a very nice pub. I went to the Pub sat outside and ordered Steak, well done this time, with Chips and a beer. Perfect! Friendly service and good beer. Very much enjoying my little ride through Belgium.

My Hotel in Crupet - Rosinate was in the barn with the cats

Watching Beeb 1 in Belgium

Crupet Castle

Looks like a good place for Steak and Chips

London to Salzburg on a bike - Stage 2 Tournai to Villers la Ville - Le Try Logis - 116km - RV6 Picardie-Ardennes

Heading East across Belgium on RV6 - 7th September 2013

Typical morning landscape - farming country in Belgium

Big old building needing repair -
 a good renovation project by the river

On the Canal - not all industrial

Fantastic cycling on RV6 today. Nice flat start in the sunshine along the canalised river before heading inland at Antoing. Now, that would have been a good place to pick up some food for elevenses but, misguidedly, I pressed on through the town. This part of the route was very countrified and quiet and Antoing was one of the few places to take on fuel. Part way through the day I noticed that my RV6 route was physically marked by blue and yellow strips, typically on the road sign support posts.

Yellow & Blue to Follow

These small marks, along with Carmen the Garmin, take a lot of stress and frustration out of the cycling. Can enjoy the day without having to resort to maps or taking wrong turnings onto busy roads etc. I don't think these marks started in Lille, certainly did not see them but they may have done? I did hit some cobbles along the way. Had expected some pave, it goes with the Territory, but these cobbles were vicious. I tried to speed up by going along the edges or sometimes along the middle but poor old Rosinante took a helluva of a beating. Now I know what the Classic Racers have to endure. Luckily the roads were quiet and I could find the best line. Soignies is a fair-sized town and I spotted a McDonalds. It was Saturday so many families in for lunch, eating their chips. I joined them. It seemed to be super efficient, it really was fast food.
Back to the farmland and the weather was getting a bit dull but the pedalling was enjoyable. The next significant highlight was the Brussels/Charleroi Canal and a stupendous lifting lock at Ronquieres. Was lucky enough to see an enormous barge come sliding down a ramp from the higher level in a massive bath tub. This arrangement is apparently a lot more efficient than having a series of conventional locks.

Not sure what this is - looks a bit fishy to me!

Moving on, my route followed the towpath for a while before heading east again. Quite an air of prosperity around this part of Balgium, the route goes through a smart Golf Course at one point. I was not all that far from Brussels but it was still good countryside. Most of the day was spent cycling through open farm land but towards the end there was a noticeable change with more trees and a change to stone rather than brick buildings.  There is not much guest accommodation around this area but took a chance on finding somewhere to rest my head near Villers de Ville. There is a old Cistercian Abbey there and a Tourist Office. The Lady in the Office was extremely helpful and found a Gites for me. Had to retrace my ride for a fair distance but it was well worth it.

Going down the ramp at Ronquieres - a barge hitching a lift

The Gite - Le Try Logis - gave me the perfect welcome. Rosinante was brought inside and parked in the hall and I was given a beer. It was owned by a Belgian Lady with an Austrian husband. He was modifying the kitchen when I arrived. The Gite opened in August and is a modernised farmhouse in a quiet residential area. Quite convenient for Charleroi Airport (Brussels in Ryanair-speak) and the best place I stayed on my little bike tour to Salzburg.

What a relief when the cobbles end

In the rough - RV6 passing through this smart Golf Course

Ready for Breakfast at Le Try Logis

Le Try Logis

My roomate - the mouse that got the cheese

So, after being concerned about finding a place in this area and even having a Plan B to nip down to Charleroi Airport to stay in an Ibis, I felt very, very fortunate. The only downside was that my HTC phone, borrowed from TW, did not survive the cobbles. And they used to sponsor a bike team?