Austria - Sportgastein - Opening the season in November

Season 2016 - 2017 - A Sportgastein opener in November

It felt a little uncomfortable cycling over to the Bus Station in my ski boots with my ski's and poles held in one hand like a medieval jousting knight. It did not feel at all like the ski season as I pedalled between the fields of green. Fortunately, no unsuspecting dog walkers were speared with my Kastles and I made the station in time for the 08:45. Reassuringly, there was another person at the stop with ski gear. The season really does begin today! We shared the large bus as it headed South on the 45min ride to Sportgastein. We drove in tandem with the regular 550 bus to Bad Gastein. I was pleased to see the very cheerful blind chap who invariably gets on the morning bus near the Bertahof. He is very popular with the Bus Drivers and always gets the seat at the front. He goes to Bad Gastein to play cards and perhaps drink a little beer with his mates. Austrians with impaired sight wear a yellow armband with three black dots, a great idea methinks. There were just a few joiners  as we made our way up the valley through Bad Gastein and Bockstein. Our resident Welshman climbed aboard just after Bad Gastein. Aye up, He is a keen skier but has some very funny ideas about food. His latest fad is to carry with him two hard boiled eggs. If he kept them hidden it would not be a problem but he likes to reveal them and eat them in the enclosed comfort of a gondola. Pwarr!
The Gondola was running as we reached the valley station. We rushed to avoid a bus load of ski reps under training and I bashed my head on the low doorway to the Gondola. Normally my helmet would have saved me but my bare head took a hefty knock.
Also skiing was our friendly Postie! He is little eccentric and chuckles to himself as he ski's. He is quite chatty in the Gondola as well and laughs a lot. He claims to be a simple man and loves Gastein, I doubt if he has ever left the valley. He also rides a bike in Summer and claims to have ridden to the top of the Gamskarkogel at over 2400m. Quite a feat by any standards as it just a rough path for the last 1000m of climbing.
The Golden Girls of Bad Hofgastein were also on the mountain. This group of ladies are avid skiers and regulars on the Schlossalm. Some work, some are retired but they all form a high speed snake wherever they ski.

Only the long Blue was open so we had a good warm up on perfect snow with excellent visibility. We had a superb day, so good in fact that we repeated it the following day. By then the Valerie Haus was open. The owner had been in Latvia and, seeing the great conditions, had rushed back to open up. The menu was limited but they rustled up a lovely Chicken Salad. It was washed down with Weiss Beer and a complimentary schnapps. Great to be back!

Walking in Gastein in Summer - to the Reedsee and Graukogel

A circular wander around the Graukogel via Reedsee

Around the Graukogel

Today I ticked off another of my ‘must do’ walks in Gastein, around the Graukogel mountain via Reedsee and the Pafnerscharte. The walking route starts near the Gruner Baum Hotel and then goes up the back of the Graukogel to Reedsee. After Reedsee it continues up to a shoulder below the summit and then down past Pafnersee and along the flank to a Mountain Restaurant. From there it's a ride down in  a chairlift to the car park.

The alarm was set as I needed to be outside the apartment at 7am for my ride to the Graukogel with Hans. Just made it! Two Austrians joined us from the Hotel over the road.  Two Russians followed in their BMW, nothing sinister in that, Hans’s Jeep was full. Hans was concerned that the Russian Lady wasn’t fit enough for what lay ahead but she was determined to come.

In the Kotschachtal

We parked at the Graukogel lift and were joined by a German couple for the taxi ride to Gruner Baum and the start of the trail (1070m). We set off along the Kotschachtal. I have seen the yellow sign pointing up to Reedsee, and the wooden bridge we would have to cross, countless times on my cycle rides up to Prossau.  Today, after about 40 mins on foot, we crossed that bridge and headed upstream. The morning mist was still hanging in the valley as we started out on our, fairly hard, 3 hr. climb up through the trees towards Reedsee (1830m). It was pretty slow going, not least, because our Russian Lady was definitely finding it tough.  
Time for a rest when we reached the Lake (Reedsee). Bit of a cool breeze coming off the water but it’s a lovely scenic spot and well worth the climb. Beside the Lake there's a  hut where you can stay overnight. Need to book and get the key before you head up there though! You also need carry your own provisions. Later on we saw a group of students struggling up from the other side of the mountain, weighed down by their rations. A tentative toe in the Lake was soon withdrawn as its pretty cold, in fact its frozen over until May. It is home to some fish though.  Apparently, they have big heads and short bodies. Does that mean they are very intelligent? Russian joke! 

Reedsee at 1830m

After our brief and chilly stop we pushed on towards the Pafnerscharte (2329m.) The Russian Lady was getting even slower and the German Lady was starting to look pale and tired. She was stopping every few steps to inhale more air.  By the way, this German couple amazed me with the volume of their food rations. They were tucking into great slabs of cheese and sausages. 
I had to make do with a banana and a couple of bread rolls, bit of a rushed departure this morning! 

Hans heading up and across the stream

Unusually for this part of the world, there are no Alms on the way so you have to carry your food or go hungry. No Alms also means no cows to meet on the way. Despite the hardships the scenery was stunning and there was a real feeling of going up a mountain all the way. From a valley stream lined with trees right the way up to the barren summit.

Climbing into the wind

Looking back down towards Reedsee

On the way down - the Pafnersee

All told, we had been walking for 6 hrs 30 mins. by the time we reached the Pafnerscharte and we were now in very rugged country. Everything looked broken, no trees, just cracked rocks.  The desolation was accentuated by a strong, cold wind so we did not hang around very long. We still had another two hours walk to the chairlift. Anyway, we were soon out of the wind, the path improved as we descended and the trees started to grow tall again. After 8hrs 30min on our feet we arrived at the hut for a well earned beer and a strudel. The Russian Lady had a well deserved zirben schnapps and a ciggy! Hans was relieved and we were all glad that the lift was still open for the ride back down to the Car Park. 

Back in the trees - not long to wait for strudel

Great walk with stunning scenery - mobile phones don't work for much of the route so its sensible to go with a group and best to take some food! Also best to do the walk in the direction we took as there are some big steps between Graukogel and Reedsee that might be tricky if you are descending. 

Thanks Hans, a memorable day.

Sportgastein in Summer - the Hohe Tauern National Park

Wandering in the Weissenbachtal in June

A rushing stream in the Weissenbachtal

It was busy at the bus stop as we waited for the bus up to Sportgastein. The waiting tourists despite their advanced years had failed to grasp the basics of queuing and, as soon as the bus arrived, they stampeded for the door! None of them had their money ready so the bus left late. We avoided getting crushed and still found seats for the 45 minute ride up to Sportgastein, our gateway to the Hohe Tauern National Park. The Park is the largest in Central Europe. It’s a mix of rugged mountains and high alpine farmland. I was sticking to the farmland and made my way across the flat area where the cross-country skiing tracks are laid in winter. 

Down there are the Cross-country paths in winter

A left turn at the end took me up the Weissenbachtal, a valley that’s between the Kreuzkogel mountain, where we downhill ski  in winter, and the ridge of mountains that separate the Salzburg Region from Carinthia in the South.  Imagine a stream rushing through pasture with high mountains on either side all topped off with the bright warm sunshine. With the sharp-elbowed pensions left far below in the distance I only had the very contentedly grazing cows to share my path with.

Looking the udder way

At the turnaround point I made time to cool my feet in the refreshing icy water before heading back. Not sure the elusive local Marmots approved of me using their stream, or possibly didn't like my feet, they kept well away. Re-booted and refreshed I took a circular walk back to Nassfeld and the bus home. Thankfully the oldies had already headed back!

Postcard from Bad Hofgastein in June 2011

Flowers, Marmots and Snow in Summer

TW ready for a hot drink

It’s been an up and down couple of weeks in Gastein.  Apart from all the mountain walks and the cycling, the temperature has been climbing and falling quite a bit. TW was not too impressed with the four inches of snow we found at the top one day. 

Marmot exclusive - in a bit of a hole

Not sure what the marmots think of it all. They hibernate under the ski pistes in winter but have the run of the place now. They don’t take too kindly to my wanderings and let out one helluva shout when they see me approaching. They are pretty elusive, this little groundhog scurried down into its burrow when I tried to take a picture. Have noticed in the shops some form of medicine or ointment that they make from Marmot so don't blame him for being less than welcoming.

The hairy bottomed snow bell?

The mountains look green from a distance but viewed close up there are a myriad of different flowers making up the pastures.  TW has a little book on the Alpenblumen and has been trying to translate the names into English. Some are pretty straightforward others like the Narzissenblutiges Windroschen turn into 'Daffodils Bloody Wind'. We have not seen too many of those fortunately.  Einkopfiges Ferkelkraut she alleges is a 'single headed cat’s ear', not sure that I’ve seen that on a packet of seeds. We have seen plenty of Gentian and Enzian though. The locals use the Enzian roots to make a particularly potent type of schnapps so they make sure that they proliferate!

Empty seats at the Bathing Lake

It looks very nice at our local bathing lake but nobody has turned up yet. Maybe they are all in the bar? So, in the absence of anyone to talk to I had better do my Dr. Doolittle and meet up with some of the local animals.

A Moo with a view.

Like your earrings!

High country blonde - no salons up here

Husky Maiden with nice grey eyes

When you approach an animal its best to show them the back of your hand and they know you are friendly. Tried it on this Husky Guard dog and it worked, just a pussy cat. Sadly it did not like being stroked. Still have all my fingers - just! Happily the doggie was on a chain and I can jump pretty quick when snapped at!

Is it a toad or a frog? Toads have toes so its a toad

Fortunately this big fella can jump as well and didn't get under my cycle wheels as we peddled up to Prossau

Now, you really should come out of your shell.

Could not get a picture of a Marmot, they are far too fast, but this is a really big snail.

Think I'll leave animals to the experts - goats at the Hochalm

Bovine Inspiration

This is cow is the centre-piece of a natural garden. Note the careful arrangement of the Alpenblumen and the rocks. Could be a winner at RHS Chelsea? As long as the cow doesn't eat it all first of course.

Austria - Sportgastein - Snow and Sun

When it's good, its very good!

High and Wide in Sportgastein

Down in the valley

At the head of the Gastein Valley, nestled in the Hohe Tauern Mountains is the Sportgastein Ski Area.

With the top station at 2,686m and the valley station at 1,590m it is pretty snow-sure. When the sun is shining and the wind has passed its a wonderful place to ski. Typically, the warm-up run will be a long blue down to the middle-station. Then we work our way anti-clockwise around the mountain, up in the gondola and then down undulating red runs. Its easy to be caught out by the sudden drops. Breaks are taken at the Restaurants at Gondola Middle-Station with its sunny terrace, the Bottom Station or at my favourite the Valerie Haus a short walk away.. The Black run to the bottom is a bit of a challenge. It is what the Austrians call a steilhang and we'd call a gully. Got to be done though!
At the end of the day we fight for a seat on the bus home, hot, tired and usually a just a bit sleepy.

Valley view - In the foreground is the red to the middle,
down below are the Langlauf loops.

High Noon in Sportgastein

It was 13 celsius at noon - 1600m.

 

No black today

Springtime in the Alps continued with a trip to Sportgastein for cross-country skiing. The Black loop was closed because of the Avalanche danger. We were perfectly safe but we heard, and saw, quite a few slips down the surrounding mountains. They say you never hear the shot that kills you, imagine it’s the same with avalanches. You see them long before the sound reaches your ears. We really enjoyed our circuits in the spring sunshine. The snow was a lot softer than I have been used to so am not sure how well the tracks would hold the skis on a fast downhill! Probably just as well the Black was closed!. The downhill skiers looked to be really struggling in the heat with all their helmets and heavy ski's. For us it was just a walk in the park.

Falling in the freezer in Sportgastein

TW in the groove

At 1600m, Sportgastein guarantees good snow. On a crystal clear and sunny morning the network of cross-country routes are the place to be. It takes about an hour on the bus to get up here from home. Being a novice, the dilemma was what to wear. When I ski downhill I know how many layers are required. On cross-country you get hot pretty quickly so settled for just a couple of layers and left a jacket in the restaurant. It was about minus 12 but soon warmed up, puffing along behind TW in the thin air. We went on my first Black loop, only for experienced skiers! It was the first time she had done this loop as well and it has some significant downhill stretches. You see on the photos that we ski in prepared tracks so, when it gets steep, its like being a scalextric car. Imagine yourself, feet together, careering a down slope with a bend at the bottom coming up fast . Its just a bit hairy! Of course you would expect Jacqui, being the expert, to go down first. Not a bit of it, Bob you go down first, you are the guinea pig. Managed to survive and enjoyed it. Sometimes I think I have the keys to a natural Disneyland out here. The loops took about 90 minutes and the temperature was comfortable all the time. We left the skiis and walked to the Nassfeld Alm, about 2km away, a nice warm hut for some lamb soup and a beer. While we were in there, the sun went down behind the surrounding mountains and it was as though we had fallen in the freezer cabinet. Only the teeth were chattering as we jogged back to the bus stop. So full marks for the cross-country skiiing but a deep zero to the winter jog at a mile high. Soon warmed up though.

Nassfeld Alm Hot Soup