30.12.09
A tale of two shoppers - Supermarket enforcer
In the UK, the checkout operator is sedentary and the customer sort of passes them by. The customer tends to be in control. How often do you get stuck behind someone painstakingly and neatly bagging their purchases. Only once finished, without any regard to the queue forming behind them will they dive into their over capacious handbags for 'the purse'.
The purse with a frightening array of different store cards, credit cards and debit cards. Careful sorting and selection of the correct card is followed by laborious entry of the secret Pin Code, Oh, and yes, I do want cash-back aaagh!
Now I know Mr Cameron will have a lot on his plate when he takes over, like re-instating fox-hunting and sorting the financial mess' but I have a great suggestion for his manifesto.
Supermarket proficiency testing with teams of wardens giving on the spot fines or condemning them to a remedial training .... in Austria.
Why Austria? Well, its different over there and a bit of a culture shock. We mainly go to a Billa Supermarket which is fine but dawdling at the checkout just cannot happen.
Bagging your shopping at the till? Nope, not an option, put it straight back in the trolley and sort it out over there!
Fruit and Veg. weighed at the till? No way, you have to bag, weigh it, enter the correct number on the weighing machine and print a label which you stick on the bag. Great fun, if you're 8 years old! TW found this out when she turned up at the till with loose veggies. She was taken, almost by the ear, back to the veggie stand by a particularly ferocious operator. I wouldn't say she was as frightening as Glenn Close in Fatal Attraction, or the Green Witch in the Wizard of Oz but she ran them a close third. So, we figured that if we were going to eat we needed to get organised and have a strategy. We needed to operate as a team, like a Formula One tyre change. No Jacqui, you can't wander off to get a forgotten item once were in the queue! Preparation was to be the key, both of us would put the items on the conveyor. Jacqui would then position herself after the scanner to catch items and put them into a second trolley. I would concentrate on paying. Then we'd pack at leisure. Anyway, after a few hiccoughs, which included yours truly panicking and putting items into the second trolley before they had been scanned, we actually got it right. We did the checkout routine perfectly. Our adversary with a knowing up and down movement of the head gave us the ultimate accolade, 'nicht schlecht' (not bad). It was wonderful, we floated home across the park, it was like passing the driving test all over again. By the way, she's not there any more but she's left a lasting legacy.
So next time you're baulked in the queue at Tesco, tell her - you should go to Austria luv, just wait until Cameron takes over.
29.12.09
Bad Hofgastein on Google Earth
http://en.skigastein.com/service/googleearth.htm
22.12.09
Postcard from Bad Hofgastein in December 2009


Over the rickety-rackety bridge

I think its purpose is more touristical than practical although one end does link directly onto the restaurant terrace! I imagine they will ply summer tourist with schnapps prior to their gravity defying crossing. Anyway, once I'd been across TW didn't have much choice but to follow. Striding purposefully across without a care in the world - not! Look out for the trolls Jacqui!
At the top of the mountain they also have a play area with computer game consoles wii etc, some free internet pc's.
So its a good place to check on the latest football news as well as to keep the the wife quiet.
The ski runs from here opened on the 19th December. It was bitterly cold on the day, about minus 18 Celsius so not a day for fooling around on the bridge. That was more a hot soup kinda day.
Postcard from Sportgastein

Advent - December in Bad Hofgastein
![]() |
Christmas is coming |
It combined some oompah, some choral singing and a little harpsichord and zither music.
We quite enjoyed it, mainly locals were there.
We were among the last to leave and there was a chap waiting at the door who I ushered to go ahead.
Nein, he said, we have a saying in Bad Hofgastein, the gaste sind Kaiser, 'the guests are king'!
We chatted to him and he revealed that actually there was a second part, die gaste sind Kaiser, aber die Einheimischen sind Emperors.
'The guests are kings but the locals are emperors'.
Not sure what that makes us, we are not really guests, and we'll never be locals, just lucky I suppose.
It set me thinking that even though its a tourist spot, it still has a very active community and the infrastructure the locals can take advantage of is fantastic for a small village.
Apart form the mountain based activities there is a superb swimming pool complex, free ice skating, indoor tennis courts etc.
You also get the impression that a lot of the social activities, like harvest festival parties and concerts are not put on for the tourists, they make sure they do it for their own enjoyment and, hey, if it brings in the Euros so much the better.
![]() |
Krampus |
The Emperors really love it but the Kaisers hide!
17.12.09
Ski season has started in Dorfgastein December 2009
TW - all wrapped up |
Plenty of elbow room in the huts at lunchtime.
No queues for the lifts
Everything seems very fresh, there is a real sense of winter advancing and the snowline creeping down the mountainside.
Avoiding the commercial Christmas at home
Christmas Markets and Advent events to go to.
On the downside:-
Not all the ski buses are running yet.
Not all the ski lifts are running.
Snow coverage is a bit thin in places and not all the runs are open.
Salzburg – Christmas Market
Salzburg is really smart and knows how to dress up for Christmas. The old part of the city is well worth a wander at this time or indeed any time of year.. There are loads of pubs, coffee houses and restaurants, as you'd expect in Austria, along with museums and concert halls and, of course, Mozart. He gets star billing in Salzburg as their most famous son.
Anyway, a restaurant we like is St Peters Stiftskeller. Its underneath a former monastery and has been serving wine since the 800's! It can be expensive but if you go right to the end of the menu you can find standards like goulash and pork steaks. We spent £40 for two. The upstairs now plays host to various stylish function rooms. See the pics.
Follow your nose to the Christmas Market. The smell of Gluwein pervades the whole area. Can't say I particularly like it but, hey its Christmas, and I don't like mince pies either. Fortified against the cold by the evil brew it qualified us for a quick circuit of window shopping, or the equivalent for market stalls.
We can get to Salzburg for about 12 Euro. on the train. Its not a vast city but is quite a contrast from our small alpine village of Bad Hofgastein.
1.12.09
Where we hang our hats in Bad Hofgastein
Summer in Bad Hofgastein |
![]() |
Winter in Bad Hofgastein |

For whom the bell rings
Cue yours truly to try and make myself small as the whole shop turns to see what’s going on.
It’s not mine, I’m buying it for a friend!
Then one of the other staff, presumably trained in the noble art of ageism walks over to verify that I am of age and to push a button on the till. As its over 40 years since I celebrated my eighteenth birthday this is not a difficult decision and, let’s face it, how many sixteen and seventeen year olds walk around in a fluorescent cycling jacket with their trousers tucked in their socks.
It’s probably true to say that a sixteen year old is a far better judge of who is under age than anyone, when I was at school anyone two years older was definitely antiquated, perhaps almost senile.
I suppose the problem is they might let their mates buy booze.
Anyway, so not only do I have to remember what to buy, to take shopping bags, my debit card and its dreaded PIN number I also have to remember to go to a checkout staffed by an oldie. Pretty tricky for a retired person! Doing all those things might just get me out of the shop without the guilty feeling.
It got me to thinking that maybe we should be chipped like dogs. If the chip carried our ages it would automatically register me as a legal drinker, when I get to 60 I won’t need a bus pass.
Probably women would not like it but then they shouldn’t drink anyway as they need to drive.
By the way the Marlow ladies in their bling and Chelsea tractors don’t much like sharing their shop with a scruffy cyclist, maybe I should invest in some bicycle clips!
11.11.09
The joys of low cost travel
On this trip, which cost £12 return, we had an early flight time of 06:30 so getting to Stansted by public transport was not an option.
Parking in long term for a month was too expensive at around £200. Taxi to Stansted and back is around £170 so not good either.
What about a Hotel? TW found a hotel with overnight stay for £115 and only 10 mins. from the terminal. Transfer was included, secure parking, wouldn’t have to give up the car keys. Get in there! - Whitehall Hotel here we come.
Now, the trusty VW has SAT NAV so we did not bother with getting directions – big mistake! Unfortunately the German designers of the Satellite Navigation system forsook the normal Teutonic principles of over-detail and over-engineering and decided that abbreviating the Post Code is good enough for the UK. So we put in what we could of the Post Code and found Church End and headed off, wrong Church End! Several phone calls to the hotel, asking people walking their dogs, a change of drivers – an ‘if you think you can find it you bloomin drive’ moment and we were there. I was beginning to think the place didn’t exist or was like the Scottish village in Brigadoon that appears one day every 100 years. It took 60 mins from Stansted to find the Hotel. An hour of Essex country roads, quite pretty actually - if you are in the right humour. Our 500 year old Hotel was deemed to be off-road by the SAT NAV and the village of Broxted didn’t exist even though it had a 12th century church.
Anyway, the hotel wasn’t bad and we decided we deserved dinner which was fine. Next morning, up bright and early for the short (included) Taxi transfer at 10 minutes to 5.
One of the Ryanair restriction is on baggage. To avoid paying extra we take only 10Kg of hand luggage each. So it’s a case of wear it or pocket it. So Michelin man and wife in thermal insulation and walking boots, our pockets stuffed with mobile phones and anything heavy, hit the taxi.
Phew, its a bit warm isn’t it!
Now there are two extremes of Taxi drivers. At one extreme you get the friendly chap who keeps turning round all the time, doesn’t watch the road much, wants to talk about last night’s match, about his family, politics - anything really. At the other extreme is the Flying Fin! Eyes are fixed firmly on the road, driving gloves are on. You guessed it we got the rally driver.
Phew its very warm isn’t! Take the jackets off, aargh the windows won’t open! I am going to die. What’s Polish for slow up and turn the heating down? It took just 6 mins to get from the Hotel to the Stansted Terminal. It really was hell on wheels.
Thank God he didn’t have a German Sat Nav!
Taking the Kur
There are special Kur Hotels that meet the Kurists needs which of course includes copius quantities of the amber nectar but doors are closed and lights out at 22:30.
Walking in November

The Gastein Hohenweg is a level path from Bad Hofgastein to Bad Gastein. Its a walking path built in the 30's to generate work at the time of the Great Depression. It takes a couple of hours, that's of course if you manage to pass by all of the cafe/restaurants en route. There are about six to choose from, Annen Cafe, Jausenstation Grubhof, Sonnberg, Gamskar, Cafe Hubertus, Gamskar.



The more adventurous can take routes further up the mountain to the summits, Poserhohe and Gamskarkogel. That's a job for next summer.
31.10.09
Cafe Culture
I earned my beer today as I have been painting windows ready for the winter.
Going to buy paint locally is always a fun experience.
Once the colour is chosen from a pallet they will always try an up sell, oh you will need to clean the wood so you need this solvent, and this cleaning material is essential etc. I did pretty well with my German initially, I knew what I wanted and what it was called but the intricacies of painting windows in Austria beat me. Oh and you need to stir the paint for two minutes so here is a free stirrer. Bit of a difference from B & Q.
Last time I bought emulsion here for the walls I ended up with a hat and tee shirt (as well as the paint).
Postcard from Bad Hofgastein in October
Sauna you than me
Across the road from us is the Palace Hotel which is pretty convenient because we can use their indoor tennis courts and their swimming and sauna area. The Hotel might be considered to be a bit dated, I think if you were building a hotel today in the style of the 70's and 80's this hostelry would give some creative inspiration. Bring back those Formica Years! It seems popular all year, the car park is always full with Austrian and German plates. Probably the buffet dinner, with beer and wine included, is a success factor. Need to be quick off the mark before all the puds disappear though!
They seem to have a formula that works and know their customers.
For example, the sign telling people not to reserve sun loungers is only in German. The sign telling people not to wear swimming costumes in the sauna is only in English and Italian.
Modesty must be language specific.
One feature of the Austrian Sauna to be wary of is the Aufguss. This is where one of the victims, or the attendant, pours water on the stones and then waves a towel like a demented football supporter to direct the super-heated steam to the furthest corners of the wooden box. If you know Aufguss is coming you have the opportunity to beat a swift retreat. If you are caught unawares its a brave man or woman who tries to open the door and escape during an Aufguss. Imagine your welcome to Hell - a fire breathing dragon burning the flesh from your back, yes that's Aufguss. Still might be favoured over the abuse you'll get if you try and leave in the middle though!
Anyway, the sauna visit brings to mind the old joke – two old colonial types are sitting in their club when an elderly woman 'streaks' through the lounge. One old boy says to the other, “what on earth did she have on?”. “No idea old boy, but it needed ironing!”
The swimming pool gave me a first, Aqua Aerobics! I was happily honing my new found swimming skills when we failed to notice a fitness instructor had landed and all the residents were getting ready for their afternoon session. The pool steps had been blocked, there was no escape! “You vill exercise now”. Being severely uncoordinated this was a bit of a concern however 1.5m water hid my lack of balance and timing and I survived the 30 mins without too many reprimands and I don't think I injured anyone.
The swimming and sauna costs 9 Euro each and the tennis is 12 Euro for the court.
25.10.09
Postcard from Dorfgastein in October 2009


In summer its great for walking, the Gondola normally runs every half-hour. For bikers and there is a smooth and ea

The pins are definitely stiffening up after all the walking we have been doing! Nothing like walking downhill to make the legs ache.
Trachtenmusikapelle Bad Hofgastein
As we are now officially tight wads we are always on the look out for some free entertainment. This is one of the local bands putting on an Autumn concert in the Kursaal. There's a whole mix of ages in the band and they sound pretty good. The programme is mainly folksy with one or two Strauss standards. The difficult part to sit through is the long verbal preamble before each song given by one of the members. Also, before the concert started, we had a lengthy introduction of all the local worthies in the audience, people like the Burgemeister. So it's a big relief when the band finally strikes up. Its probably a clever ploy, nobody cares about a few duff notes after all the waffle.
A Gold miners lunch!
Traditional lunch-time fare here is Tyroler Grostl. It consists of chopped up ham, meat and potatoes with herbs all topped off with a fried egg – lovely.
Back in time, in the 15th and 16th century this was a big gold mining area. One of the local attractions is the Heilstollen which is a disused mine. I was told that it was dug in the early 40's when the 3rd Reich wanted some silver. The miners digging it felt as fit as fleas, they found good health but no precious metal. The high humidity and radon gas in the tunnels are alleged to be great for giving relief from respiratory complaints, arthritis and rheumatism. Apparently you go into the tunnels on a old mining railway. Its a really big operation and includes a medical centre. You have to have a medical before they will let you down there though. Some of the older people swear by Radon treatments, including our next but one neighbour who is in her eighties and still plays golf. I suppose when you get to her age its too late to bother about any possibly nasty side effects.
Bad Hofgastein – a Polar Expedition

the top of the mountain without too much effort. Once at the top, over 2000m, walks radiate in all directions and have varying degrees of difficulty, marked blue, red and black. Some of todays punters were quite happy sauntering around or having snowball fights or sitting on the sunny terrace with a beer and a strudel. Anyway, we set off on a walk down to the middle station. Its a bit late in the season so some of the mountain huts (Alms) are closed so we could not plan a route with nice lunch spot. Many of the farms in the va

The Hofgasteiner Haus was open but we decided to save that for another day. The Haus is

Today was cold but without a cloud in the sky and not a breath of wind. The snow was dry and crisp and every footfall brought that nice squanching sound that we rarely get with our UK slush.
With snow about a foot deep it could have been hard work but the snow was so light and powdery it was


By 3pm we were back in the town, a youth football match was being fought out on the football pitch and people were sitting on park benches enjoying the autumn sunshine. No doubt the golf up the road was in full swing.

At home our balcony was still in the sun so sat and had a nice cold beer and watched the sun behind the mountain - cheers!

17.10.09
Home and Away
Bad Gastein - a little spa time

![]() |
St Nicholas Church |
I didn't like Bad Gastein much at first but it is growing on me.
There's quite a bit of history, this church of St Nicholas is 14th century, the murals on the wall have faded quite a bit since they were painted in 1517!
Some of the streets were designed for mountain goats but todays walk, along the Kaiser Wilhelm Promenade took us around the mountain to a side valley called the Kotschachtal. This area has become a favoured destination. Where this valley starts there a very swanky Hotel complex called the Gruner Baum, we don't go there! Just before it there's a nice pub/restaurant 'Sonnschein' run by an Austrian and his Danish wife, we do go here. The speciality is a fish dish, bit of a Danish thing.

Once into the valley its a 1 hour 15 min walk alongside the stream to a restaurant at Prossau. For me, its a great bike ride first thing in the morning, for others its a fairly gentle uphill walk walk with a coffee or beer and a strudel waiting at the end.
![]() |
Kotschachtal |
As yet, we haven't even scratched the surface when it comes to summer walks in the area.
The scenery takes your breath away sometimes!
One of the questions people asked when we bought our place was 'won't you get fed up with going back to the same old place'. To be honest it was concern but in reality we like the place more each time, and because we come back we find new things to see, and do, every time.
Featured post
Spain - Canary Islands - A Postcard from La Palma
Out and about in the Atlantic in February 2018 On the coastal path at Los Concajos There is no threat of a Banana Drama when you go ...

-
Table Mountain - no tablecloth Our spinning lift to the Table top Cape Town with Robben Island We had to delay our trip to Table Mountain ...
-
4th June - Heading for the Emerald Isle A leisurely late flight to Dublin from Bournemouth on a warm evening and we were soon ensconced in t...
-
Out and about in the Atlantic in February 2018 On the coastal path at Los Concajos There is no threat of a Banana Drama when you go ...
-
Pick up a penguin There are a couple of options to see these lovely creatures near Cape Town. Boulder Beach south of the City near Simonstow...
-
Heading South It’s supposed to be an easy flight to South Africa. It’s only a two hour time difference and it’s all downhill! We beg to d...
-
Stage 1 Grado Pineta to Udine - 8 th June In the pink until I dropped my Holux - not painful! Grado Beach Area - yours for the day f...
-
A view from Stables at Vergelegen Vergelegen Winery. Wow, what a place to kick-off with. Vergelegen covers a huge area of parkland in addi...
-
Exploring the Nelson Region - on Golden Bay - 15th October Pull up a log - nice spot for our picnic at Tata Beach Tata Beach Gold...