Alpe-Adria 1/4 - a bike tour from the Adriatic to the Alps - Grado to Udine

Stage 1 Grado Pineta to Udine - 8^th June

In the pink until I dropped my Holux - not painful!

Grado Beach Area - yours for the day for 2 Euros

Grado - smart and well cared for resort

After a good night’s sleep I was awoken by a dawn chorus of smokers coughs echoing through the hotel. My dining room companions from last night were clearly coming alive. Down to the restaurant for a repeat of last night’s procedure, this time with the expansive breakfast buffet.  Another very good demolition job, even if I say so myself. Another receptionist at check-out and another friendly face. I used the expression, 'what's the damage' when asking for my bill so we had a bit of a laugh over colloquial expressions. There was no damage honestly!

Time to fill the bidons, load up and head along the coast towards Grado.  Had a good first impression of Grado, even more umbrellas and a much tidier beach.  

Umbrellas on holiday

Grado is where the Alpe-Adria cycle trail (ciclovia Alpe Adria) is supposed to start, or finish.  Alpe-Adria is a European Union funded cycle route that stretches from Salzburg to Grado. It conveniently passes through Bad Hofgastein, my destination. I was alerted to it by a tunnel drilled solely for cyclists alongside the main road in the Gastein Valley.

On the prom at Grado

One of the fleet with my bridge behind

Docked in Grado

Zooming in on the Adriatic

The weather forecast was dismal with rain forecast for several days, today being the only fine day. I needed to make it count. The Grado tourist office, located next to the main beach entrance, was extremely helpful and loaded me up with maps and brochures for the area and my route. A few too many for a cyclist to be honest so I headed for the promenade and a comfy seat to read and filter out any surplus. Cycle routes going East through nature reserves might be of interest if I was staying in the area but my immediate destination was North towards Udine. By the way, it costs 2 Euros to enter the beach area so I sat on the prom near a breakwater. Really lovely sitting in the early morning sun by the Adriatic but I wanted to make the most of the day. I had to choose between sitting on the beach or cycling along in the sunshine with warm air and a tail wind. Cycling won easily but not before a wander along the prom and a quick pedal around town. Lots of one way streets and an olde-worlde historic centre.  It’s also quite a significant fishing port with many boats sporting a scraper thingy for picking up shellfish.

Ponte Figariola

Anyway, the route North beckoned so I tore myself away and swung over a narrow bridge to where the cycle route starts. The 5km Ponte Figariola, stretching across the lagoon, was a great start to the ride.  It was all just a bit too perfect, a dedicated cycle path with a good surface, a following wind, sun on the back and pancake flat. First town was Aquileia with Roman ruins and a Basilica with, according to the brochures I had read on the seafront, stunning mosaics on its floor. I guiltily cycled on past, maybe next time.

The Basilica at Aquileia

Cycle route at Aquileia

Roman Ruins at Aquileia

 On through Cervignano to Muscoli where I spotted the first sign for the Alpe Adria route and just had to take a photo. Have to say I expected to see signs all the way. It was also at this point that I dropped my Holux tracking device although I did not realise it until later and when I was about 10km to the 

First sign

North. Where it fell was actually the only section of rough terrain. Up to that point, and afterwards, the road and cycling path surfaces were excellent. It was only a short stretch of gravel and grass, about 200m, but it cost me a lot of time and energy. Once I noticed it was missing, I turned South into the wind to try to retrieve it. A guy operating a strimmer alongside the road saw me pass three times, he only flicked a stone at me on my third pass! My search proved fruitless and it was only later, when I was in the Udine Tourist Office, that we were reunited. 
A cycling Dutch couple had spotted it, picked it up and I was standing alongside them when they tried to hand it in. Very fluky!

Palmanova - the central Piazza Grande - its definitely not a square

Palmanova - see the Piazza Grande in the centre

One of the entry gates - abt. 10 O'clock on the aerial view

Anyway, after the temporary loss, and the foray South, the mood was broken. Direction signs disappeared and I took a wrong turn so the short hop to Palmanova became a bit arduous. All a bit frustrating, to put it politely! At least Palmanova was interesting when I eventually cycled through. It has a city wall shaped like a nine pointed star. I sat in the main square and ate my biscuits. I couldn’t see any cake shops open so that was my lunch for the day. It was not easy to find the cycle route out of town so I opted to ignore the ciclovia and go on quiet roads towards Udine. I may not have chosen the shortest route but I arrived in Udine without any further frustrations and can boast that I have been to Tissano and Lumignacco.

Udine - street market

Udine is a fair size town with a historic centre, we passed through on the bus from Venice last year. I headed for the Tourist Office using the City map given to me in Grado, had a bit of a wait because the Lady in front of me kept asking yet another question and another...

On the cobbles in Udine

Uphill for the first time

Views over Udine

Udine

The staff were very patient and, have to say, the Tourist Office customer service was excellent again. They took account of me being on a bike and booked a Hotel with storage space, they also gave me a small map with a marked up route. Oh, and of course I met the Dutch couple and was reunited with my Holux. The Hotel Cristallo was 58 Euros B&B and was conveniently located just outside the historic centre. The bike went in the subterranean garage and I had a very comfortable room on the second floor. After a good soak I headed out, desperate to find food. 

My Trattoria

Skinny street in Udine

The hotel receptionist recommended a couple of local Trattoria. I chose the Ai Vecchi Parrocchiani in Via Aquileia. It was pretty earIy so I asked the guy at the bar (who turned out to be the owner) if they were serving food yet - no not yet, I'm the Chef so give me 15 minutes.  Fair enough, small beer please.  True to his word, the food service started in about a quarter of an hour with arrival of a hand written menu. I did not understand a single word but they translated for me with a mixture of hand signals and English words.  Apparently all were local specialities. I chose a bean soup followed by squid with peas and a carafe of wine. The wine was on draught from a beer pump! I thoroughly enjoyed my meal although I was so hungry any fussiness was out of the window.  It was a football pub, I had heard of the local team, Udinese of course, and the waiter delighted in telling me they had beaten Tottenham  2 – nil about five years ago. He also said our supporters were very good. Apparently Celtic had visited recently and their voracious appetite for drink presented a few challenges. Extremely friendly place, people were popping in, having a quick drink and then moving on, some were going to the room at the back to watch the Euros. Many had an opinion on my route tomorrow to Venzone. Anyway, after my Espresso  I paid my 20 Euro bill, managed a ‘grazie mille’ and headed off for a tour of the city. 

Up at the castle

An International food market filled the local cobbled streets with stalls displaying everything from Irish Beer to Austrian Strudel. 

Heading home

It was a great night for wandering among the Friday night crowds along the Via Vittoria Veneto, not as posh as his street in Rome but still lovely, and the Via Aquileia. The locals were ignoring the drizzle so I did as well. When in Udine... Found some very impressive old buildings. I like the way Italians name their streets and squares. Piazza Patriacarto, Piazza Del Duomo and Piazza Primo Maggio were on my tour. Found the first hill of the trip and walked up to the castle, great views from up there but I could see tomorrow’s mountains looming up so I scuttled back down the cobbled steps to the bustling streets and onwards to my comfy Hotel. I like Udine, there is plenty of history to see and the people are friendly. Clearly there is much to see in Italy away from the main Tourist centres like Florence. I could have easily spent much more time in Grado, Aquileia, Palmanova and Udine. Overall a brilliant day, must make sure I fit my Holux on its mount properly tomorrow though!

Alpe-Adria Bike Tour - the Prologue, Stanstead to Grado Pineta with the bike

The Prologue - flying off to Italy - 7th June 2012

Flying with a bike is not the most straightforward activity. Arriving at the destination and seeing the bike arrive on the carousel bent and broken must be avoided at all costs. That means careful packing! This for me means bike in a bag plus bag in a box, on the way out . I know, its bit of a Russian doll system but it works.

My carrier of choice to Trieste was to be Ryanair. Well, it’s not really Trieste, its Friulli Venezia Guilia, Regional Airport, but that's close enough. The fare for me was £16 and £50 for the bike. The bike got Club Class whilst I was stuck in steerage! It took a while to get through Stanstead. Had to queue for baggage check-in and then take the box to ‘out of gauge’. Another queue for security where they stopped me because of the energy drink powder in my hand luggage. I really should have put it in my other pannier that was in the bike box. They then did their swab test, another fail! They reckoned my pannier had picked up something off the road, petrol or similar. It was soon sorted, albeit after a bit of form filling, and I was on my way. Good job that TW dropped me at the Airport nice and early. After struggling to drink a scalding hot coffee at the gate it was time for my non-priority boarding.  Ryanair seem to be blocking off several rows at the front and several rows at the back so we were all packed in the middle of the fuselage. The crew said it was for aircraft balance but you can’t help thinking it’s a cunning ploy to make priority boarding more beneficial and to make it easier to serve and sell. I was sat next to a couple developing a property in Slovenia. He was quite chatty so heard all about their village and Slovenia.

Got the usual fanfare for another ‘on toim’ arrival! Welcome to Italy and nice blast of warm air at the top of the steps, goodbye UK rain! Great relief to see my box appear on the conveyor. I found a shady spot outside the terminal to put Rosinante back together. Any vital parts missing? Cycling off with just one pedal would not be funny, for me anyway.  No, happily all was present and correct. I disposed of the box and I headed off on the short ride to Grado Pineta. Keep on the right, right!

Trieste Airport to Grado Pineta - 24km 

Italy - off to the seaside

On the road to Grado Pineta

Peach Trees by the road

It was billiard table flat all the way to the coast on a mix of cycle paths and fairly quiet roads that took me past Peach Orchards and Grape Vines. A very nice introduction to Italy. Checked in at the Hotel Plaza. The Italian receptionist was pleased to see me. Most of her guests were German and Austrian but she did not speak German.  She was, however, fluent in English and was delighted to be understood for once. My bike was safely stored in a smart conference room and my room wasn’t bad either. We were both feeling welcome and well looked after.

Paddling at Pineta

Grado Pineta is the quiet neighbour to Grado, lots of Apartment blocks, some camp-sites and just three hotels. Where Grado is a bit smart and a tad chic, Pineta looks a bit tired and weary. Suited me fine!

Bike, beds and umbrellas

I had booked Half Board (69 Euros) and had my first Italian menu thrust before me in the Hotel Restaurant. I was starving so was ready to eat anything. The starter mentioned lasagne, no idea what the main was but the pudding was Panna Cotta. My dining companions seemed more interested in diving outside for a smoke so I had no competition for the salad bar. My tactic was to sit near the buffet table and make regular attacks without piling the plate too high. Feeling very satisfied and nicely bloated I headed off for a walk by the Adriatic. Not like a Cornish Beach for sand or surf but it wins handsomely in terms of umbrellas and beach beds.

The Route Ahead - Grado to Bad Hofgastein

Trieste Airport to Bad Hofgastein

Cornwall - St. Ives in May 2012

Cold and Bright in May

Carbis Bay - getting ready for Gig racing

It does not feel like May. Cold temperatures and high winds have kept us indoors too much. Still looks good though. No such thing as a grey day down here.

From Godrevy towards Hayle

Porthminster Beach

England - Bike Tour - Dorchester, Dorset to Carbis Bay, St. Ives, Cornwall - May 2012

Day One - Dorchester to Beer  - 70km

Putting my foot in it - Overshoes needed this time!

Cycling the National Cycle Route, NCN 2, from Dorchester to Beer in May is becoming a bit like an annual migration. This year the weather was diabolical, low cloud and rain! TW dropped me off in Dorchester during a rainstorm, "are you sure you want to do this"?

2011 ride

2010 Ride

Lovely weather for cows

I could not even see Hardy's monument as I cycled past in the fog. It's quite a stiff climb up to his chimney and not seeing the top was probably an advantage. I was up there and on my way down through beautiful Dorset countryside before you could say Kiss Me Hardy! 

Visibility is down to nil and its getting worse!! You get used to the rain dripping off the helmet after a while and with lights on I pressed on through the gloom past Bridport and then dropped down to Charmouth and the coastal road through Lyme Regis. 

Grabbed a pastie in Lyme Regis and then ground on towards Seaton. I made the mistake of following the supposed route of Cycle Route 52 which turned out to be a waterlogged and muddy bridle path with gates to negotiate. Had to backtrack and return to the very foggy and frightening A-road. I was very much looking forward to a roof and my hot shower - that's if I made it to Beer!

Seaton on a Spring day!

Managed to avoid becoming road kill and booked in at the Youth Hostel in Beer, a substantial Manor House at the back of the town. A Touring Aussie Cricket Team, (The Reds), were in residence, they had been in the country for one and a half weeks but had only managed to play one and a half games due to the rotten weather. Despite the lack of overs they were staying cheerful and enjoying the grog. After my well deserved shower I headed for the Anchor Inn by the harbour for a gammon steak and a Guinness. My Aussie friends were in there watching football. Got wet yet again walking home during another deluge. My YHA dormitory only had one other occupant but he managed to make himself heard! 

Day Two - Beer to Bellever - 95km

Beer to Bellever

The weather was no better the next day as I headed off on NCN 2 which, very conveniently, passes the hostel. I had my first coffee and cake stop in Sidmouth just prior to the mega 'Tour of Britain' hill out of town. Had to walk for a bit but it was not too bad, don't think anyone saw me. At Exmouth it was really pouring with rain so, instead of taking the open ferry across to Starcross I headed up the Estuary towards Exeter and then back down the other side, into the wind, towards the Turf Hotel. The Turf, at the end of the Canal, is a definite favourite of mine. 

Over the top towards Chudleigh

After a dry lunch, coffee and a sandwich, it was time to head on towards Starcross on a very muddy track. From Starcross I took the right turn that would take me up towards Dartmoor. The route through Chudleigh and Bovey Tracey was tough, lots of climbing and head winds. I knew the ascent up Dartmoor to Haytor would be the hardest but I certainly was not ready for the wind that hit me near the top. It was ridiculous. Cycling was impossible. I had to push my bike into the cloud. If the Hound of the Baskervilles had appeared in front of me it would not have made the trip any worse. A rivulet was running towards me down the side of the road. It was a massive relief when, seemingly an age later, I crossed the 'continental divide' at the highest point and the water started to run downhill in the direction I was heading. The steep downhill ride to Widdecombe was not quite as rapid as normal as the headwind was strong and the road so wet. Not far now to Bellever, the rain had stopped but it was still very windy. There are no road signs so I needed to navigate carefully, getting lost now would be unthinkable. It was a hard, hard day and it was very nice to be welcomed at the Bellever Hostel by a hot shower, a bowl of wonderful pea soup and a plate of fish and chips. Oh, and a couple of Jail Ales! What a day, was I really having breakfast in Beer this morning? Very convivial at the Bellever Youth Hostel. No Youth in evidence, just plenty of banter and jolly people. A large group of people from the Lyme and Seaton area were getting settled in and were pretty impressed with my day's exploits. Probably thought I was mad, and they may be right. My two companions in the Dorm were a bit noisy, an Aussie and a Brummy, but it was dry and there was not too much wind!

Over the bridge on Dartmoor

The wet and windy road on Dartmoor

Day 3 - Bellever to Boswinger 70km plus a train ride

Bellever to Plymouth

Well, the plan for today was to head west to Tavistock and then carry on to just before Bodmin from where I would head south to St Austell and Boswinger. It soon became clear that the headwind hadn't abated overnight and the route west would be very unpleasant. Having struggled into the prevailing Westerly wind for an hour, I invoked Plan B and, just before Tavistock, I headed South on NCN 27 down to the City of Plymouth. I should really have made the decision earlier and turned off at Two Bridges and joined the NCN 27 at Yelverton. Anyway NCN 27 is a brilliant route and for much of the way follows a disused railway line and the Plym Valley.  It is frustratingly easy to miss the little Blue signs for the cycleways but a lucky missed turn took me to a traditional bakery with 190 odd year old oven. I locked jaws with another lovely pastie. The baker and the counter Lady were really friendly and directed me safely back onto my intended route. The Lady whispered the price to me, £1.65, I think she let me off the VAT and didn't want George Osborne to hear. And whoopee, no head wind all the way to Plymouth. Plymouth was busy and bustling, lots of students from the University out and about. Found Plymouth Station and booked an £8.90 ticket to St Austell. Bikes are carried free but can only be booked in advance so I was supposed to ask the Train Manager if I could put my bike on-board. Fortunately I did not see her and with the aid of another cyclist loaded Rosinante for the beautiful train ride to St. Austell. Unlike Austria they have a sign on the platform telling you where to wait with your bike so there was no panic search when the train came in. The bike compartment was just behind the engine.

Rolling down to Boswinger beach

Joining NCN 3 at St Austell is not difficult. I was pretty sure which direction to go in but having checked with a couple of people I managed to get totally confused and decided to simply follow the road signs to Mevagissey. I did eventually join NCN 3 but the path was dodging about all over the shop. First one side of the road and then the other and it was muddy. I gave up and took to the road again!

Cornish paste in - St Austell to Carbis Bay via Boswinger

Despite my early struggles with NCN 3 it was actually a sunny and a pleasant ride down to Boswinger Hostel.

The view from my bunk

Lovely Beach at Boswinger

Housed in converted farm buildings, the hostel is in an isolated hamlet about ten minutes from the sea. I dumped my bags and rolled down the hill for a paddle on the beach. Wow - this is a fabulous area for coastal walking. Nice view from my dorm and no other occupants to share with! That meant I could spread out my damp and possibly malodorous clothes. Another good dinner of Soup, Smoked mackerel with Salad and then Apple Pie for £11. In bed and asleep by 20:30 - bliss! Taking the train today was probably bit of a cheat but it turned the day around.

Day 4 - Boswinger to Carbis Bay 70km

Portloe

Gerrans Bay

Saturday and what a lovely day for a bike ride. After a good breakfast I headed west along the coast. It was a bit hilly but who cares, the sun was shining, the wind was not too strong and I was well rested. Had a wander on the beach at Gerrans Bay. Bit disconcerting that the road down to the bay was signed as 'No Through Road'. No problem though, it just meant a short push on a sandy path to rejoin the road on the other side of the beach.  The Hotel down there looked closed and dilapidated, such a shame. Still a lovely spot though. Left the coast and headed inland towards the King Harry Ferry over the River Fal.- free for foot passengers and bikes.

King Harry across the Fal

Decided on an early lunch at the Trelissick Gardens. This is a National Trust property just at the top of the hill after the ferry. Had a lovely pie and salad sitting in the sunshine. NCN 3 went offroad so I ignored it for a while but, after a big hill rejoined near Bissoe. There is a cycle hire station at Bissoe and the Cafe is obviously bit of a gathering point for cyclists. I pressed on towards Redruth on the mining trails. Missed the blue signs yet again in Redruth and had to take a busy road but found NCN 3 again and headed for Cambourne, bit of a sad town. Did not stop, headed for Hayle across country and then the crafty ride along the Saltings to Carbis Bay. It is not obvious, but you can take the turning for the Park and Ride and join a quiet road that runs parallel with the busy main road into St Ives. Nice to be back in Carbis Bay, had the kettle on ready when TW and TMIL arrived from Bournemouth. Time to get to Tesco's for a nice bottle of Aussie Red to have with Dinner.

The mining trails towards Redruth

Journeys End - Carbis Bay