Day One - Dorchester to Beer - 70km
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| Putting my foot in it - Overshoes needed this time! |
Cycling the National Cycle Route, NCN 2, from Dorchester to Beer in May is
becoming a bit like an annual migration. This year the weather was diabolical,
low cloud and rain! TW dropped me off in Dorchester during a rainstorm, "are you sure you want to do this"?
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| Lovely weather for cows |
I could not even see Hardy's monument as I cycled past in the fog. It's quite a
stiff climb up to his chimney and not seeing the top was probably an advantage.
I was up there and on my way down through beautiful Dorset countryside before you
could say Kiss Me Hardy!
Visibility is down to nil and its getting worse!! You
get used to the rain dripping off the helmet after a while and with lights on I
pressed on through the gloom past Bridport and then dropped down to Charmouth
and the coastal road through Lyme Regis.
Grabbed a pastie in Lyme Regis and then
ground on towards Seaton. I made the mistake of following the supposed route of
Cycle Route 52 which turned out to be a waterlogged and muddy bridle path with
gates to negotiate. Had to backtrack and return to the very foggy and frightening A-road. I was very much looking
forward to a roof and my hot shower - that's if I made it to Beer!
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| Seaton on a Spring day! |
Managed to avoid becoming road kill and booked in at the Youth Hostel in Beer, a substantial Manor House at the back of the town. A Touring Aussie Cricket Team, (The Reds), were in residence, they had been in the country for one and a half weeks but had only managed to play one and a half games due to the rotten weather. Despite the lack of overs they were staying cheerful and enjoying the grog. After my well deserved shower I headed for the Anchor Inn by the harbour for a gammon steak and a Guinness. My Aussie friends were in there watching football. Got wet yet again walking home during another deluge. My YHA dormitory only had one other occupant but he managed to make himself heard!
Day Two - Beer to Bellever - 95km
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| Beer to Bellever |
The weather was no better the next day as I headed off on NCN 2 which, very conveniently, passes the hostel. I had my first coffee and cake stop in Sidmouth just prior to the mega 'Tour of Britain' hill out of town. Had to walk for a bit but it was not too bad, don't think anyone saw me. At Exmouth it was really pouring with rain so, instead of taking the open ferry across to Starcross I headed up the Estuary towards Exeter and then back down the other side, into the wind, towards the Turf Hotel. The Turf, at the end of the Canal, is a definite favourite of mine.
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| Over the top towards Chudleigh |
After a dry lunch, coffee and a sandwich, it was time to head on towards Starcross on a very muddy track. From Starcross I took the right turn that would take me up towards Dartmoor. The route through Chudleigh and Bovey Tracey was tough, lots of climbing and head winds. I knew the ascent up Dartmoor to Haytor would be the hardest but I certainly was not ready for the wind that hit me near the top. It was ridiculous. Cycling was impossible. I had to push my bike into the cloud. If the Hound of the Baskervilles had appeared in front of me it would not have made the trip any worse. A rivulet was running towards me down the side of the road. It was a massive relief when, seemingly an age later, I crossed the 'continental divide' at the highest point and the water started to run downhill in the direction I was heading. The steep downhill ride to Widdecombe was not quite as rapid as normal as the headwind was strong and the road so wet. Not far now to Bellever, the rain had stopped but it was still very windy. There are no road signs so I needed to navigate carefully, getting lost now would be unthinkable. It was a hard, hard day and it was very nice to be welcomed at the Bellever Hostel by a hot shower, a bowl of wonderful pea soup and a plate of fish and chips. Oh, and a couple of Jail Ales! What a day, was I really having breakfast in Beer this morning? Very convivial at the Bellever Youth Hostel. No Youth in evidence, just plenty of banter and jolly people. A large group of people from the Lyme and Seaton area were getting settled in and were pretty impressed with my day's exploits. Probably thought I was mad, and they may be right. My two companions in the Dorm were a bit noisy, an Aussie and a Brummy, but it was dry and there was not too much wind!
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| Over the bridge on Dartmoor |
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| The wet and windy road on Dartmoor |
Day 3 - Bellever to Boswinger 70km plus a train ride
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| Bellever to Plymouth |
Well, the plan for today was to head west to Tavistock and then carry on to just before Bodmin from where I would head south to St Austell and Boswinger. It soon became clear that the headwind hadn't abated overnight and the route west would be very unpleasant. Having struggled into the prevailing Westerly wind for an hour, I invoked Plan B and, just before Tavistock, I headed South on NCN 27 down to the City of Plymouth. I should really have made the decision earlier and turned off at Two Bridges and joined the NCN 27 at Yelverton. Anyway NCN 27 is a brilliant route and for much of the way follows a disused railway line and the Plym Valley. It is frustratingly easy to miss the little Blue signs for the cycleways but a lucky missed turn took me to a traditional bakery with 190 odd year old oven. I locked jaws with another lovely pastie. The baker and the counter Lady were really friendly and directed me safely back onto my intended route. The Lady whispered the price to me, £1.65, I think she let me off the VAT and didn't want George Osborne to hear. And whoopee, no head wind all the way to Plymouth. Plymouth was busy and bustling, lots of students from the University out and about. Found Plymouth Station and booked an £8.90 ticket to St Austell. Bikes are carried free but can only be booked in advance so I was supposed to ask the Train Manager if I could put my bike on-board. Fortunately I did not see her and with the aid of another cyclist loaded Rosinante for the beautiful train ride to St. Austell.
Unlike Austria they have a sign on the platform telling you where to wait with your bike so there was no panic search when the train came in. The bike compartment was just behind the engine.
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| Rolling down to Boswinger beach |
Joining NCN 3 at St Austell is not difficult. I was pretty sure which direction to go in but having checked with a couple of people I managed to get totally confused and decided to simply follow the road signs to Mevagissey. I did eventually join NCN 3 but the path was dodging about all over the shop. First one side of the road and then the other and it was muddy. I gave up and took to the road again!
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| Cornish paste in - St Austell to Carbis Bay via Boswinger |
Despite my early struggles with NCN 3 it was actually a sunny and a pleasant ride down to Boswinger Hostel.
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| The view from my bunk |
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| Lovely Beach at Boswinger |
Housed in converted farm buildings, the hostel is in an isolated hamlet about ten minutes from the sea. I dumped my bags and rolled down the hill for a paddle on the beach. Wow - this is a fabulous area for coastal walking. Nice view from my dorm and no other occupants to share with! That meant I could spread out my damp and possibly malodorous clothes. Another good dinner of Soup, Smoked mackerel with Salad and then Apple Pie for £11. In bed and asleep by 20:30 - bliss! Taking the train today was probably bit of a cheat but it turned the day around.
Day 4 - Boswinger to Carbis Bay 70km
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| Portloe |
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| Gerrans Bay |
Saturday and what a lovely day for a bike ride. After a good breakfast I headed west along the coast. It was a bit hilly but who cares, the sun was shining, the wind was not too strong and I was well rested. Had a wander on the beach at Gerrans Bay. Bit disconcerting that the road down to the bay was signed as 'No Through Road'. No problem though, it just meant a short push on a sandy path to rejoin the road on the other side of the beach. The Hotel down there looked closed and dilapidated, such a shame. Still a lovely spot though. Left the coast and headed inland towards the King Harry Ferry over the River Fal.- free for foot passengers and bikes.
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| King Harry across the Fal |
Decided on an early lunch at the Trelissick Gardens. This is a National Trust property just at the top of the hill after the ferry. Had a lovely pie and salad sitting in the sunshine. NCN 3 went offroad so I ignored it for a while but, after a big hill rejoined near Bissoe. There is a cycle hire station at Bissoe and the Cafe is obviously bit of a gathering point for cyclists. I pressed on towards Redruth on the mining trails. Missed the blue signs yet again in Redruth and had to take a busy road but found NCN 3 again and headed for Cambourne, bit of a sad town. Did not stop, headed for Hayle across country and then the crafty ride along the Saltings to Carbis Bay. It is not obvious, but you can take the turning for the Park and Ride and join a quiet road that runs parallel with the busy main road into St Ives. Nice to be back in Carbis Bay, had the kettle on ready when TW and TMIL arrived from Bournemouth. Time to get to Tesco's for a nice bottle of Aussie Red to have with Dinner.
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| The mining trails towards Redruth |
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| Journeys End - Carbis Bay |
