Cycling in Austria - up and down on the Gastein Radweg

Blue Sky Riding - October 2011

The wide and sunny Gastein Valley

We were walking up the Stubnerkogel the other day and somehow managed to find ourselves in two feet of snow on the steepest piste on the mountain. My companion thought it appropriate to mention the old song, ‘mad dogs and Englishmen’. “Oh well, as you are Welsh you must be the mad dog then”. Today there was nobody else to point the finger at but the song somehow came into my head again.

Circular Tour in Gastein 44km

Turn Right on the Gastein Radweg

It was a beautiful sunny day again and ideal for a spin on the bike. The morning frost was being burned off by the sun on the Western side of the Gastein Valley. I headed for that sunshine and cycled through Anger and joined the cycle route. After cycling past farms and pastures this eventually took me back to the Riverside to continue a gentle ride upstream. The locals were out in force clearing the trees brought down by the recent storm and sawing them up for fire wood. There is definite order to the resulting stacks. Each limb is cut to a standard length and they are not just piled, they are positioned into a neat honeycomb patterns. The wood-cutters are certainly more precise than the golfers on the adjoining course; a sign warns of wild balls crossing the path. Thankfully there were not too many golfers in view as I passed. No doubt the sun will  soon bring them out to pace the fairways.  At the horse riding stables they were already busy and the horses were pacing in the ring. I cut through their yard to where the Gastein Radweg heads up a steep forest track to the Kotschachtal and its cold rushing stream. At the top I was warm as toast from the climb despite the ice on the bridge. I crossed and took a sharp right towards Bad Gastein.  

Looking up to Bad Gastein

Altitude was lost initially but it wasn't long before the uphill grind started again. Our Welsh contingent would tell you that Bad Gasteins claim to fame is that it’s the same altitude as the top of Snowdon, 1085m. I kidded  myself that the slow uphill pace was an advantage as there are some interesting old buildings to see along the way.  St Nicholas Church is a favourite attraction and there are several traditional Kurhouses and Spas. Sadly, the buildings around the waterfall are dilapidated and waiting for a developer. I dawdled through town, past the Casino and then the attractive Hotel Solitude. What a wonderful name to give to a Hotel next to a gambling establishment.  I imagine heavy losers can check in there to think up the excuses to give their wives for the loss of their housekeeping money.  From Mozartsplatz there is a short ride on the main road before it's time to rejoin the River and the Elisabeth Promenade, named after Sissi the wife of Emperor Franz Josef and a regular visitor in Bad Gastein’s heyday.

Elisabeth Promenade

Autumn Shades in Gastein

Bockstein Church

The most Southerly village in the valley is Bockstein. It has some fine old buildings dating from the time this was a rich mining area. The domed Church is worth a visit. Bockstein is not a place to hang around on a cold day though. The valley is narrow at this point and doesn't get a great deal of sun.

House and Fountain in Bockstein

Smooth cycling to Bad Gastein

Coffee and Cake - cycling essentials

On the Archduke Johann Promenade

Climbing up to Angertal

Cue a quick exit, downstream for the first time, on the other bank of the river, back to Bad Gastein.  The coffee houses of Bad Gastein were too much of a temptation so I pulled up for a coffee and cake before taking another Royal route, the Archduke Johann Promenade. This is a favourite route that is initially both flat and quiet. After crossing the Railway Line it joins up with a stiff climbing route, through farmland and forest, to the Angertal Ski Centre. 

Heading for Bad Hofgastein with the
Gamskarkogel in the background

Angertal Ski Centre

 In about six weeks time this place will be alive with skiers but today just the wood choppers were in evidence. After a short distance on the road down to Bad Hofgastein I took the turning off to the left towards the Ski Middle Station. Stunning views of the valley made me forget the fact I was climbing and, although the Tarmac ran out, it was fairly easy going up to the Baerstein Alm and then the lifts at the Middle station. The snow on the ground started to be a concern but, like the ‘Mad Dog’ I pushed on. Narrow wheels and summer tyres were not ideal but I was pretty happy in my winter wonderland and pushed on past the Aeroplanstadl, a skiers watering hole.

A little house on the hillside

Gastein view from the little house on the hillside!

Is this winter?

Mad Dog! I think I climbed too high!

I reached my highest point at 1400m, and started to descend. I decided to walk which was a bit of a contradiction as I had stayed in the saddle all day and for the previous 1542m of climbing. Going downhill and having to apply rim brakes on ice and snow was a bit too risky, for me anyway. My excuse is that it gave me time to savour the scenery and the fresh air as I passed the Fundner Alm and slithered on down in a foot of snow.

On the way back down to Autumn

Dancing for joy in Bad Hofgastein

The Gastein Ache
The river that flows from Bockstein down to Bad Hofgastein

Anyway, the road down soon cleared and I could climb back on and bomb down the zig-zag road towards the sunshine of Bad Hofgastein and that river again. What a day and what a ride!

The Dog Track?

It’s great being a Mad Dog!

Route profile - gradually heading up

Walking in Bad Hofgastein - enjoying the Autumn sunshine

Late season walking on the Hohenweg

Kotschachtal - towards the Bocksteinkogel

A lunchtime picnic in the Kotschachtal, a side valley near Bad Gastein, and a leisurely walk home along the Gasteiner Hohenweg was the plan for today.

Sheep fields in the Valley

Going downstream to Grunen Baum

Level Walking on the Hohenweg

It costs one Euro on the bus from home to get to the up-market Hotel complex at the entrance of the Kotschachtal Valley. The Grunen Baum Hotel is like a small village and, amongst other things, plays host to posh weddings. We like to walk on a little further up the valley to near where sheep gently graze and some comfortable sun-soaked seats. The views are stunning and it’s so quiet. The walk home takes about 2 hours and is on a mainly level path, the Gasteiner Hohenweg, high up on the side of the Gastein Valley. Being on the Eastern side it stays in the sunshine until quite late.

The recent early snow and bad weather has brought down quite a number of trees but there are plenty left and there are wonderful panoramic views along the way.


Late season walking on the Schlossalm

View from the Baerstein Alm

When the Sun goes down

It was like someone on high had flicked a switch and put on the Air Conditioning. There we were, sitting comfortably at the Baerstein Alm, tucking into Wiener Schnitzel and Apple Strudel. Suddenly the sun dropped behind the trees. That sent us diving in our rucksacks for some extra layers. Still mustn't grumble, it had been yet another cloudless and windless day.

Untere Haitzingalm - closed till next Summer

Cannons aimed and ready!

In the morning, we walked up from the Middle Station through the trees and past rushing streams. Even though the forest is primarily conifers there are good a number of deciduous trees. That meant we could kick up fallen leaves as we walked, one of the big bonuses of autumn. I suppose there is an expectation of sterile ground under the pines but that’s certainly not the case.  The streams are lined with what looks likes moss from a distance but is actually a small delicate fern. Mushrooms and other fungi grow in abundance. Most of the birds have already flown south so the normal birdsong was absent. Another sign of the seasons advance was the disappearance of the barbed wire fencing. The cows are now living down in the valley farms and the slopes are being prepared for the Winter visitors. Snow cannons are being deployed and pistes improved. Carrying on up through the trees we came to the Haitzingalm under the cable car where they make cheese and look after the pigs and cattle - as well as the walkers of course. It looked quite sad, all closed up until the summer next year.

On the slide - TW takes steps to stay in the sun

On the bounce - TW laying on the trampoline

In the dark - Shadows lengthen in Autumn

Now out of the trees we wound our way through the pastures to the Top Station, ready to take the Cable Car back down to the Middle Station and our planned lunch at the Baerstein Alm. We always get a warm welcome there and it was glorious sitting outside with stunning views of the mountains - until the sun went down of co

Austria - Four seasons - all in a day’s walk

Taking the lift to the top can 'Fast Forward' you through the seasons.......

On top of the world 2050m

After slipping and sliding in the slushy snow around the Lake at the top of the Schlossalm II Lift we took a ride down to the Middle Station and then walked back down to the village.

Slipping and sliding at over 2000m

Mountain Lake - ready to to feed 
the snow-makers

Snow Bull at 1200m 

The thermals were needed at the top but it was tee shirt weather at the bottom. All in a leisurely day’s walk in Gastein.

Greener and Warmer Pastures - 1000m

The reward at 850m
Coffee and cake on the balcony

Flying South to Austria in October - the way to go

Journeys End in Austria - Autumn Leaves

Over the last few years we've used budget airlines Ryanair and EasyJet countless times. The reason we usually fly ‘budget’ is purely price – low price. Of course it’s not just the airline fare - there are all the other travel costs that need to be considered when choosing who to fly with. You could argue that that the recent low fares have been subsidising all the other services like, for example long term parking at Stansted, and has also been compensating us for the inconvenient flight times. Parking for 3 weeks will cost over £100 even if you book in advance. Flying at 6:30am means getting up at 3 in the morning and writing off the day. 

The price gap to Flag Carriers has now narrowed

Today, because of punitive taxes and budget airline fare increases, the price differential between budget airlines and the so-called flag carriers has reduced markedly. It can be now more cost-effective to fly BA or Lufthansa to Austria. Well, North Austria anyway. We have to fly to Munich and catch the southbound train but it still can be cheaper and more pleasant.

For us, Heathrow is easily the closest Airport and we can get a lift or a bus so that cuts out the fuel costs and the parking. If you book in advance the ‘Flag’ Airline Fares are pretty similar to Budget Airlines. A return to Munich on Lufthansa need not cost much over £100. Then it’s just the Train fare to find, between £40 and £80 pounds return from Munich to Bad Hofgastein. Of course the other bonus is that hold baggage is free. Instead of being limited to 10Kg of ‘carry on’ we have a relatively massive 23Kg each. £60 return for a 15 Kg bag on Ryanair is a heavy price to pay to use the hold. Naturally TW takes most of both our allowances but, on this trip, she did kindly leave room for my necessities in Austria. The necessities being two packs of porridge, a large box of Jelly Babies and a combination bicycle lock.

Taking Off

Having grown accustomed to the ways of budget airlines the flag flying experience does feel much more relaxed. Already checked in and with seats allocated, we simply dropped off our bags and headed off for a coffee. Then, off to the gate, no waiting for the priority boarding queue to empty first, no measuring of the hand baggage. We were soon on board via a gangway! No need to walk down the steps and across the tarmac and then climb up the airliner steps, no scrum for the best seats. Just sit back and enjoy the complimentary coffee and the free Sunday paper. We were given a breakfast sandwich and could understand the announcements. Nobody tried to sell us anything.

Back on land

The train links from Munich Airport are pretty good, it’s just a short undercover walk to the station. We then had to take the S-bahn to Munich Ost where we could pick up a direct train to Bad Hofgastein. The S-bahn was like a commuter train and the 30 minute ride was pretty uneventful, apart from a certain little dog. TW said “that dog is dribbling”, I said “it’s probably hungry” TW said “wrong end”! Aaah! I moved the bags. Funny the things you remember when travelling.

Snow on the mountains in October
but  the Geraniums are blooming

Bit a of wait at Munich Ost but that gave us time to buy sandwiches. Our train arrived five minutes late and we found a couple of seats for the three hour ride. Seat reservations on trains can be a bit of a minefield, not sure if we are unlucky but most times when we reserve seats the actual train layout is totally different and we have to take pot-luck. In this case we were force to sit in a First Class carriage? Anyway the conductor didn’t mind and was happy with our tickets. By the way, if you print your own ticket at home they want to see the credit card you used for the booking. Lovely countryside as we drifted, in a leisurely fashion, through Bavaria and into Austria. Not a particularly fast train, nothing like the TGV’s in France but comfortable enough and time to absorb the ever changing scenery.

Have to say our migration south this time was very pleasant and, for once, I’m not dreading the journey home. Hope we don’t meet the incontinent dog again though!

Cycling in London - bike on Thames

Tales of the Riverbank

Thanks for raising the bridge!

Mill End

Surprisingly, it’s easier to cycle in the Big City than our small town in Bucks. Of course, when we take a Thameside cycle near home we can use our local tow-paths. However, in our small town we have no cycle paths and have to brave the school run mums, the commuters and the trucks. That’s not the case in London. Being simple country folk it was quite a surprise to find ourselves on a Cycle Superhighway along the Thames as we approached Westminster for the Tour of Britain racing. The ‘thick blue line’ made for safe and easy cycling so we vowed to use it again later in the week.

London in the sun

We parked for free in a quiet residential street in Wandsworth just off the A3 and headed downhill into town to pick up CS 8 (Cycle Superhighway 8) to take us into the City. As the route signs are painted on the street it’s simple, even for us, to navigate and we soon found our way to Battersea where we crossed the river and headed East along the Embankment. It’s not perfect for pedalling but when you are used to taking your chances without any cycle infrastructure it almost felt too good to be true.  At Westminster we crossed over to the South Bank and cycled on Sustrans 4 to Tower Bridge and beyond. Morning coffee and loo stop at the National Theatre before pedalling on the cobbles past the Golden Hind and Globe Theatre.

TW on Bankside

We joined up with the office types at a Simply Food near City Hall to buy a Lunchtime picnic to eat in the sunshine, the Shard behind us.  

A cool and necessary beer was savoured at Browns by the Thames before we headed upstream and back to Wandsworth to pick up the car.

Real cyclists at Tour of Britain

On Westminster Bridge

Passing Big Ben
Real cycling - Cav with his mates at HTC

Am sure there are lots of negative comments on the cycle superhighways but they certainly benefit these two occasional visitors from upstream. 

Bit more tranquil near home - at Hurley

Cycling in England - Bournemouth to Marlow on a bike (183km)

Last of the Summer Rides? - September 2011

Bournemouth to Marlow

At the pub on Friday my working friends asked me what I had been up to today.

Well, it’s been a death and life sort of day..............

Incident at Boscombe!

I was up at dawn and off through the Park to Bournemouth Pier. At the seaside I turned left and headed East towards Boscombe. The recent bad weather had brought sand up onto the road so I needed to concentrate to avoid hitting the deck.  Between Boscombe and Southbourne the route was blocked by a Policewoman, "sorry you will have to turn back, we have an incident going on here." I could see a body lying on the beach! Ooerr! Apparently he had been retrieved from the sea.  That brought a different perspective to the day.

It was even more wonderful to be alive and cycling and I most definitely would not be wasting any time whinging about the wind or the hills!

Southborne to Chandlers Ford

I headed up the zig-zag and along the over cliff towards Christchurch. It was still early so I sped East through the town and, after a short ride along the A 35, turned off for Burton.

Have to tell you that my navigation methods are a bit primitive. No planning of the route on the Internet and then downloading the GPS file to a Garmin. The previous evening I had torn the relevant pages out of an old road atlas and circled the places I wanted to pass through. I would then rely on road signs and the sun to get me home.  Roads signs are, of course a bit limited on the back roads and it was forecast to be cloudy; there could trouble ahead!.  My scenic route through the New Forest via the ‘bee route’ Burton,  Bransgore, Burton and Burley became a kerb hugging dash along the, now busy with commuters, A 35.

Oh well, made Lyndhurst. Didn’t stop at the Ferrari dealership this time and pressed on along the cycle path towards Totton. A pile up on the A35 between two cars had caused a massive traffic jam. Of course I was able to get past and, with the road empty, I belted down the carriageway.  On the approaches to Totton it was back to the cycle paths. Cycle paths are bit frustrating at times and this was a classic. Poorly sign posted and swapping from one side to the other it was only marginally helpful. In Southampton I gave up and went back on the roads. I found my way to The Avenue, near where TW used to live, and headed towards my next target of Chandlers Ford. Reached Chandlers Ford after just over 3 hours. Not a very exciting town but time for bacon baguette and a big coffee at the Asante coffee shop.  Apparently Asante means 'thank you' in Swahili and all the profits from this volunteer staffed Cafe go to an African charity. Don’t mind giving to charity when I get a bacon baggy! The cakes look good too.

Chandlers Ford to Odiham

After my rest I headed to my next ‘circles on the map’, Otterbourne and Twyford. Bit of a tangle with the M3 junctions but was soon into Winchester, a favourite spot. Some City Centres are a must to avoid but not Winchester. I pedalled through the middle of this bustling place. Lots of people sitting outside Cafe’s and enjoying the only sunshine of the day.  Off along the Itchen Valley to the Worthys! Kings Worthy, Abbots Worthy, Martyr Worthy and then the Itchy Abbess. Starting to play games with names from the point! Climbed out of the valley towards Northington and the Candovers, a really lovely area. The roads were good and fairly quiet until my navigation failed me again and I ended up on the A339 from Alton. If only I had not turned right off the road to Herriard! Anyway, I took the first turning off, towards Lasham, went around in a circle and ended but back on the A339 at the same point 23 minutes later. I had done a big circle around the Lasham Gliding Area! Oh well, better than ending up on the beach or Basingstoke! The signs were now showing Odiham, my next food stop. Odiham is quite a pretty place but seems to have got a bit poorer since my last visit. Found a coffee shop and Beans on Toast.

Odiham to Marlow

So after about 8 hours it was on to Hartley Witney and then some horribly busy roads towards Wokingham. School run mums and busy roads are the recipe for Road Kill so I changed route and headed for Bracknell. Bracknell is a new town and has a totally illogical road system and network of cycle paths. Getting through Bracknell without negotiating several loops of the ring road and bike paths was a total fluke!  Great relief when I saw the sign for Maidenhead and I was then able to put away my tatty maps and navigate some very familiar and quiet roads through Waltham St. Lawrence, Pinkneys Green and Cookham Dean.  Needed the boost from my last Honey Roll on Sustrans NCN4. Very nice to be home after my 11 hour jaunt, what’s for tea?

Highlights

Winchester, the beautiful Hampshire countryside and my charitable bacon baguette

Low’s

The beachside incident! Getting lost at Lasham, missing part of the New Forest by hitting the A35 and the Berkshire school run!

Anyway – Asante!

The Great West Time Trial

Anyone seen Number 17?

So what is the usual outcome of a convivial Curry night at the Last Viceroy? Well, it could be simply a nice meal and a good memory. More likely for me, it would be an upset stomach or a hangover.

On the other hand it might result in a commitment to do something never previously attempted, like entering a Time Trial? Surely not! I blame the Cobra.

I have often seen cyclists bombing down the local carriageways at weekends with numbers on their backs and never considered that I might join them. I'm a tourist or a mountain biker, I don’t do speedy!

However, I found myself signed up for a Saturday morning Time Trial on the A4 - the Great West Road.

So I needed to be at an Industrial Park at twenty to nine on Saturday morning. I have a bike and the obligatory Lycra but what of the other logistics? Should I 'ride out' to the start, how do I know the route? Oh well, I suppose all will be revealed.

Well, I arrived in good time for the start and was welcomed by the organiser, “give us your two quid, sign this and here's a number.” I needed to pin the number to my back. The first attempt was hopeless and would have ended up with me towing a braking parachute but I got there in the end. My fellow trialists were warming up on the road so I thought I had better do the same but try not to overdo it. I pedalled up the road simulating practice. The start was planned for 9am and we would head off at one minute intervals in number order. Trouble is, even though I had spent about ten minutes pinning the number on my back I had no idea what my number was. Excuse me, what's my number is a pretty daft question but I found myself blurting it out. You are number 17!

Oh dear, I looked around, there were a few familiar faces but very unfamiliar outfits! Streamlined helmets, triathlon bars - what the hell was I doing here! I was definitely way outside of my comfort zone.

Cometh the hour, cometh the minute! I needed to clip into my pedals and would then be supported until I was pushed off at my allotted time. I was a bit concerned that, at the appointed hour, I would simply topple into the road. My starter informed that he hadn’t dropped anyone yet which was reassuring.. At seven minutes past nine I tottered off on my 10 mile journey to the Twyford roundabout and back. The route looked pretty level but, when you are trying for speed, any slope is like a brick wall. The first stretch had a slight incline and, even though I had decided to start slowly, I was soon gasping for oxygen. I wondered how long it would be before I was passed. I did not have long to wait! I was passed three times. I had imagined that the slow people would be sent off first which would have meant even more people flying past. I was pretty slow though, the time keeper thought I had taken a wrong turning.

I enjoyed it anyway, my 31 min 35 sec was the slowest of the day but at least I know I can do better. I was given a few tips amongst which were; don’t carry your water bottle, don’t take your tool kit, don’t wave at the riders going in the other direction and don’t start off too quickly! Nobody said don’t come back. Next time I will know the routine, next time I will keep my head down. Next time I will stay off the Cobra!