Cycling in Austria - up and down on the Gastein Radweg

Blue Sky Riding - October 2011

The wide and sunny Gastein Valley

We were walking up the Stubnerkogel the other day and somehow managed to find ourselves in two feet of snow on the steepest piste on the mountain. My companion thought it appropriate to mention the old song, ‘mad dogs and Englishmen’. “Oh well, as you are Welsh you must be the mad dog then”. Today there was nobody else to point the finger at but the song somehow came into my head again.

Circular Tour in Gastein 44km

Turn Right on the Gastein Radweg

It was a beautiful sunny day again and ideal for a spin on the bike. The morning frost was being burned off by the sun on the Western side of the Gastein Valley. I headed for that sunshine and cycled through Anger and joined the cycle route. After cycling past farms and pastures this eventually took me back to the Riverside to continue a gentle ride upstream. The locals were out in force clearing the trees brought down by the recent storm and sawing them up for fire wood. There is definite order to the resulting stacks. Each limb is cut to a standard length and they are not just piled, they are positioned into a neat honeycomb patterns. The wood-cutters are certainly more precise than the golfers on the adjoining course; a sign warns of wild balls crossing the path. Thankfully there were not too many golfers in view as I passed. No doubt the sun will  soon bring them out to pace the fairways.  At the horse riding stables they were already busy and the horses were pacing in the ring. I cut through their yard to where the Gastein Radweg heads up a steep forest track to the Kotschachtal and its cold rushing stream. At the top I was warm as toast from the climb despite the ice on the bridge. I crossed and took a sharp right towards Bad Gastein.  

Looking up to Bad Gastein

Altitude was lost initially but it wasn't long before the uphill grind started again. Our Welsh contingent would tell you that Bad Gasteins claim to fame is that it’s the same altitude as the top of Snowdon, 1085m. I kidded  myself that the slow uphill pace was an advantage as there are some interesting old buildings to see along the way.  St Nicholas Church is a favourite attraction and there are several traditional Kurhouses and Spas. Sadly, the buildings around the waterfall are dilapidated and waiting for a developer. I dawdled through town, past the Casino and then the attractive Hotel Solitude. What a wonderful name to give to a Hotel next to a gambling establishment.  I imagine heavy losers can check in there to think up the excuses to give their wives for the loss of their housekeeping money.  From Mozartsplatz there is a short ride on the main road before it's time to rejoin the River and the Elisabeth Promenade, named after Sissi the wife of Emperor Franz Josef and a regular visitor in Bad Gastein’s heyday.

Elisabeth Promenade

Autumn Shades in Gastein

Bockstein Church

The most Southerly village in the valley is Bockstein. It has some fine old buildings dating from the time this was a rich mining area. The domed Church is worth a visit. Bockstein is not a place to hang around on a cold day though. The valley is narrow at this point and doesn't get a great deal of sun.

House and Fountain in Bockstein

Smooth cycling to Bad Gastein

Coffee and Cake - cycling essentials

On the Archduke Johann Promenade

Climbing up to Angertal

Cue a quick exit, downstream for the first time, on the other bank of the river, back to Bad Gastein.  The coffee houses of Bad Gastein were too much of a temptation so I pulled up for a coffee and cake before taking another Royal route, the Archduke Johann Promenade. This is a favourite route that is initially both flat and quiet. After crossing the Railway Line it joins up with a stiff climbing route, through farmland and forest, to the Angertal Ski Centre. 

Heading for Bad Hofgastein with the
Gamskarkogel in the background

Angertal Ski Centre

 In about six weeks time this place will be alive with skiers but today just the wood choppers were in evidence. After a short distance on the road down to Bad Hofgastein I took the turning off to the left towards the Ski Middle Station. Stunning views of the valley made me forget the fact I was climbing and, although the Tarmac ran out, it was fairly easy going up to the Baerstein Alm and then the lifts at the Middle station. The snow on the ground started to be a concern but, like the ‘Mad Dog’ I pushed on. Narrow wheels and summer tyres were not ideal but I was pretty happy in my winter wonderland and pushed on past the Aeroplanstadl, a skiers watering hole.

A little house on the hillside

Gastein view from the little house on the hillside!

Is this winter?

Mad Dog! I think I climbed too high!

I reached my highest point at 1400m, and started to descend. I decided to walk which was a bit of a contradiction as I had stayed in the saddle all day and for the previous 1542m of climbing. Going downhill and having to apply rim brakes on ice and snow was a bit too risky, for me anyway. My excuse is that it gave me time to savour the scenery and the fresh air as I passed the Fundner Alm and slithered on down in a foot of snow.

On the way back down to Autumn

Dancing for joy in Bad Hofgastein

The Gastein Ache
The river that flows from Bockstein down to Bad Hofgastein

Anyway, the road down soon cleared and I could climb back on and bomb down the zig-zag road towards the sunshine of Bad Hofgastein and that river again. What a day and what a ride!

The Dog Track?

It’s great being a Mad Dog!

Route profile - gradually heading up