Austria, Switzerland and France - Summer 2019 European Road Tour

Austria, Switzerland and France - Summer 2019 European Road Tour - Part 2 of 2

August 11, 2019

Back to the Mountains - Austria beckons

The drive back from Prague to Bad Hofgastein is pretty straightforward. From Prague Airport there is a long stretch of Motorway that almost reaches Ceske Budovice. That's the only place where it got snarled up for a bit. South of Budovice and I started to look for a coffee stop. I eventually found a very nice one near Linz and had an excellent second breakfast. I had originally planned a stopover in Linz to do a bit of cycling along the Danube. I was going well and enjoying the drive so I headed home to Bad Hofgastein.

Sportgastein in Summer

The Weissbachtal

With the lovely weather continuing I had big plans for cycling in the valley. The ride up to Sportgstein is a favourite route. First the climb from Bad Hofgastein to Bad Gastein. After BG there is a river valley to follow. Initially it's easy riding but it getspretty steep with loose gravel. I stopped for a dustbuster on the way of course. The Upper Astenalm is famous for its Krapfen. Then a push on to the Nassfeld Alm, for a bit of lunch. I fancied a wander so I tied up the bike and headed for the Weissbachtal. It is such a beautiful place, no marmots this time unfortunately. Just a cool mountain stream.

Alpenrose in bloom

Gentian in bloom at Sportgastein

Sportgastein on a wonderful early summer sunny day

The Gastein Badesee - swimming with the fishes!

Need to grow a bit before she can play.

A new ride for me was to the Steiner Hochalm above Dorfgastein. I pedalled up from behind Hauserbauer but it was not a straightforward climb as a stack of trees were down and blocked the across the signposted route. I tried to bypass them by going higher on a farm track but that petered out and I eventually conceded defeat and turned back. I rejoined the trail and had to lift my bike over the fallen trees. I was very, very relieved to get to the Alm where I was warmly welcomed by Margit. Her daughter was there this time, she obviously has ambitions to play the accordion. Bit too early methinks. After a nice lunch I had a good ride down to Maierhofen, this time on the route TW and I walked up on my recent Birthday.

I like a bit of warmth but it was really, really hot weather. I decided to pace myself, broke with tradition, and spent an afternoon at the AlpenTherme which was a lovely treat. The pools are lovely and warm. There are also cold pools but, hey, why would anyone want to to suffer them when there is a warm alternative. The weather was so good I even stopped off on one of my rides to try out the Swimming Lake, the Gastein Badesee. It was quite pleasant sitting under a tree reading my book. Not sure about sharing the Lake with the massive fishes that live in there though. They are massive and like most big fishes look very angry. Had a refreshing dip anyway.

Biking in the Gastein Valley

Dorfgastein

The cows get a great view in Summer

Rugged and deserted country behind Prossau

TW returns from UK

Back on the bike with TW. This local ride took us to Hauseben Cafe for a coffee. We then doubled back up to the Angertal ski centre for a lunchtime Bauernsalad (Farmers Salad) at the Waldgastof. After lunch we took the road down towards BH and then a left turn after a km or so and climbed up past the Baerstein Alm. It was closed on this day (Wednesday is Ruhetag) but we were heading for another of my favourite places, the Fundneralm for a Beer and a Krapfen. TW got a bit nervous at one point because her battery was emptying fast and she wanted to turn around! She could relax once we reached the Fundner as it is downhill all the way to the village from there. Maria and Simon made us very welcome and we had a good chat,

She's back

Its a dogs life in Gastein

Bloomin' lovely

Hans is testing the Schnapps at the concert in the square

Walking on the Schlossalm

Wild Flowers abound

One of our favourite walks is from the KleineScharte top station via the the BrandnerHochalmen to the Baerstein. We had company today.

Florence and her Mum came too.

The Brandner Alm

A beer stop at the Brandnerhochalm

Relaxing at the Brandner

Nice flowers on our balcony this year

While we were there it was the 70th Anniversary of the formation of the Austrian equivalent of the Young Farmers and the locals set up quite a celebration. On the final Sunday they had a Service and a Parade. The rain held off for a while and we sat and people watched.The Farmers wives dress to impress in their black outfits. They are very expensive and are sometimes handed down from Mother to Daughter. Not sure about the little black hats though. Tradition dictates that they have to wear them once married. They cost a fortune as they incorporate Gold Braid.

The Farmers Wives

The Schnapps Lady - anyone for a schnapps

The band played on - despite the heavy rain

Whipping Boy, whip crack away!

It poured with rain just as the Parade moved off so we headed for a nearby hostelry to watch them march through town.

Following the horses - It's a crap job but someone has to do it!

Conny - our seat saver

Up on the roof - at the Bellvue Alm

Lunch in the Bellvue Alm as we walked down from the Stubnerkogel mid station.

Heading home via Switzerland

We used the scenic route to the West of Austria, through Zell Am See and Kitzbuhel. We then took the easy option and drove through the Arlberg Tunnel rather than crossing the ArlbergPass. We planned to stay overnight in Wald but after a bit of a search for a room we were recommended to go a little further to Dalaas. The Gasthof Post was a bit pricey but is a very nice and traditional Hotel.

Last night in Austria in Dalaas

Switzerland

TW was keen to have another look at Grindelwald after two visits as a child so we had booked ourselves into the very pleasant Hotel Bellvue Pinte in the centre of town. Our drive through Switzerland was going rather well until we found our route closed and we had to make a big diversion. Oh, and for Switzerland we had to buy another vignette for the car which cost about £30. I stopped on the border to buy it. I asked the chap for the vignette and he said what, for Switzerland? I thought that was a bit odd until I realised a bit later that the Border Post was for Liechtenstein - doh! Anyway we had our 'ticket' for Switzerland and reached Interlaken and then Grindelwald eventually.

Crossrail - Nearly there - Witterswill

Our Grindelwald Hotel

This cow mural was outside our room

We loved our Hotel, the Bellevue Pinte, and could not fault it. Traditional outside but lovely modern rooms inside. The Restaurant was also very nice and informal and we enjoyed a good evening feed there. In the afternoon TW had visited the campsite where she stayed as a child. The owners gave her a postcard dating from her childhood visit, surprisingly it was in colour! She also went to a shop where she previously bought a tiny musical box all those years ago and talked with the owner. He had one of the lift chairs from the old First chairlift on his balcony. That tickled TW because she has often talked about it. The First is now served by a modern Gondola.

We were spending the following night at the top of the Faulhorn and we were a bit concerned about where to leave our car in Grindelwald. Fortunately the Hotel boss let us park in their Car Park overnight which was very kind as they do not have many spaces. We gave her a box of chocs as a gesture, very Swiss.

As expected, their were loads of visitors from the Far East in Grindelwald. Can blame them though, the views are stunning.

Heading off on our adventure

Grindelwald

The happy wanderer

Another bloomin selfie

We really enjoyed our walk up the Faulhorn despite the last stretch being a bit edgy. We had shared the morning Gondola to First with a couple from England. We had a drink at First on a lovely terrace with magnificent views and later we had a picnic by a Lake. There were a lot of people on the walks taking advantage of the good weather and the stunning views. Would not mind going back with my bike and doing some more walks in the area.

TW at First, not for the First time

This has to be Switzerland

Walking up to the Faulhorn

The Faulhorn - A bit weather worn at 2700m

The wibbly - wobbly Hotel Faulhorn

The best bit about our stay at the Hotel Faulhorn was the friendly Manager and her lovely Staff. It was certainly an unforgettable experience to stay overnight at the top of this mountain. It was only one night, so not a problem, but at 2700m with no road access the facilities were a bit limited. It was seriously going back in time and has no mains water or electricity. We don't do camping or indeed glamping so we were not exactly in our comfort zone. It probably has not changed in decades. The only modern touch is the food delivery method. All the food and drink is helicoptered in. At 40 Francs a minute it needs to be quite a slick operation. You do have to pay a premium for your glass of wine as a result. At Dinner we sat with a Swiss Family and had a good chat with them. The majority of people, about 60, were from one group and kept to themselves. As a result it was not as convivial as we had hoped. TW and I had a double room whereas the majority were in two large dormitories. We were very thankful for that, not sure we would have had any sleep. I think I slept in Heidi's bed, it was a bit like a cot. The loo was down the corridor so my regular visits involved extricating myself from my sleeping sack and wandering down the wobbly corridor lit by candles. Anyway, I recommend the experience and for many Alpinists and Campers it might well be the lap of luxury. But for us softies just one night was quite sufficient thank you very much!

From First to Last

A room with a view at 2700m

Wrestling with my sheet sleeping bag

Cats lick washing apparatus

My little Heidi bed for the night

Taking the empties -The food delivered and the waste taken away

Colmar, France

The weary travellers head back to the Hotel

From Switzerland we headed North and West towards France and the lovely City of Colmar. We did really well, as we travelled from the top of the Faulhorn to Colmar in a day. And, that included a flat battery in the car. Our little motor took exception to our night away on the Faulhorn and we had to call out the Recovery Service. I had previously planned to overnight in Colmar when I cycled through this area a few years ago but I ran of of steam and stayed in a village just to the North,It is a really lovely place and an ideal stopover for us. We were a bit late arriving in town and wasted a lot of time driving around looking for a cheap hotel. Eventually we found a room near the Railway Station. As a result it was a bit of a rush getting to a Restaurant in time for Dinner. Luckily our Hotel recommended somewhere really lovely in the old town and it was just perfect. We sat out in a square on a warm evening next to a couple of friendly Frenchmen. One was a big black chap who was cycling through France on an e-bike. He was a bit of a man mountain, better suited to Prop Forward than cyclist, we had a good laugh and banter with them. He had a flat battery earlier and went into a Police Station, they charged him! Next morning we made time for a walk around to see the town properly in daylight and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Next stop Albert in the North, not so pretty.