Austria - Schmaranz Alm - A Bio Beer Bike Ride in Gastein

Taking the High Road

The Schmaranz Alm - Scotty on Tour

I like to ride my bicycle. And, just like the old Queen song, I like to ride it where I like!

On this occasion my extremely likeable target destination was the Schmaranz Hutte high above Bad Hofgastein at nearly 1800m. It is the Summer Alm for a valley farm in the Wieden area of Bad Hofgastein. The Schmaranz Farm's main claim to fame, in my eyes anyway, is its Bio Brewery. They brew the most delicious beer and the reward for a near 1000 metre climb on my Scotty comes cold and wet in a half litre glass.
The route starts behind the Railway station and, today, the time on the Station clock was 11:15 as I passed by. The narrow road winds up through a small community of farms and dwellings before reaching the typical Alpine pastures peppered with a few fruit trees. They were laden with Apples but no scrumping today.  The big lumbering Austrian cows did not take any any notice as I pedalled slowly past. They were more interested in eating the lush green grass and ringing their bells than greeting a skinny man on his bike . It's a hard climb in the warm weather and the helmet was soon strapped to the bars and the shirt consigned to the saddlebag. The road is tarmac until a gate just below the St Hubertus Chapel where the road gets a little bit rougher. It felt a little cooler as I entered the forested area. Tall pines line the road but there are gaps at intervals to view the valley and the town gradually shrinking below. There are only about two or three houses on the route up through the forest. A walking track crisscrosses my route but no walkers to be seen today. The peak season has passed and I had the whole area to myself. At about 1700m I had to make a choice, head straight for the Schmaranz Alm or right for Biber Alm, another favourite.

 I stayed on the straight and a wide vista opened up as I topped the tree line. Getting weary now but my Bio beer incentive kept the wheels a turning. Ahead I saw the Hut and it was occupied. I was pretty sure it would be open but they do have their Ruhetags (rest days) over here. On with the shirt, and through the gate. The Farmers Wife saw me coming and was quick to offer me a beer. I sat outside along with three Austrians. Two were on the Kur (a three week paid holiday that is supposed to cure ailments - real or imagined). The other was their walking guide. We had a some good banter about football etc. and the time passed quickly. I ordered cold Pork which was lovely. It was a simple meal, with bread and Kren ( shredded horse-radish), but perfect. The Austrians complimented me on my German which was very polite. When they left, the Farmers wife sat with me. She was from Bavaria originally and spoke good English. She told me she was living the dream. She always wanted to live on a Farm, ever since she was a child and used to visit her Grandmother on a Farm in Germany. They bring the animals up from the valley in June and stay until the end of September when it starts to get cold. Two wonderful Border Collies played around at my feet, Mother and Son.

Bessie

Mum does the majority of the herding and the 18 month old son helps out when the cows are difficult. She also has a blind 13 year old dog she brought with her from Germany that still follows her on the mountain. The hut is lovely. It is very traditional and was built in the Forties by the Husbands Grandfather. They generate their own electricity from the stream that runs in front of the hut. They sell homemade Marmelade (Jam) and Schnapps. Oh, and the most delicious Beer brewed in the Valley.
A good deal colder and faster riding down so long trousers and a warm fleece. It took 1 hr 45mins to cycle up but a good deal less to get down.

Space at the table