Cycling in Southwest England - Bike from Beer to Paignton - 85km - (2 of 3)

Disobeying Holy Orders

Beer for Breakfast, Tea on the ‘Riviera’ - 85km

Beer to Paignton

Had a good sleep in my bottom bunk and headed down for Breakfast in Beer. My companions were two German ladies, one was driving a little car around Southern England, and the other had based herself in Beer and was riding buses to various points in Dorset and Devon and then taking the footpaths home. Our walker had taken an Easy Jet flight from Berlin to Bristol and had made the mistake of over-nighting in Bristol before heading for the country. Not a pleasant experience!

View from Peak Hill

Anyway, back on the bike and NCN 2 for a very scenic but hilly ride through the hills from Beer, past Branscombe and then on to wrinkly Sidmouth. The hill out of Sidmouth is a corker and I decided to take the opportunity to enjoy a brief stroll. Having battled up Peak Hill last year and then seen professionals on light-weight bikes with no baggage struggle up it on the Tour of Britain I calculated that I could just about be excused my pedestrian ascent. Climbed back on Rosinnante for the descent though ....whoosh! Last year I got a bit lost on the stretch between Sidmouth and Budleigh Salterton and ended up on busy roads. This time I deliberately gave up on the NCN 2 for a while but made sure I rejoined it at the section where it follows a ‘disused’ railway line into Exmouth. Cycle-paving over the tracks may only be the second best use of a Railway Line but it’s difficult to beat the nice flat rides they provide.

Exe Estuary Expedition

South on the Canal

At Exmouth I decided not to take the ferry over to Starcross but to cycle up the estuary on the eastern side and then down the other on the canal towpath. It was a good track most of the way towards Exeter but I seemed to get a bit lost, or the track disappeared. I ended up on a busy road and then a Council Estate. Once over the bridge to the South of Exeter and onto the canal tow path things improved considerably. Very quiet and scenic ride towards Lunch at the end of the Canal!

Just by the exit/entry Lock , where the Canal meets the Estuary, there is a lovely old Hotel. I like The Turf (www.turfpub.net)! 

At the Turf

A Cyclists Lunch

Apparently the local council wanted to flatten it a few years back but the local museum got involved and it was saved. What a tragedy if it had been demolished and replaced by a seventies style flat roofed monstrosity, or perhaps a hole in the ground? I had a simple sausage sandwich lunch with a pint of the local brew. It has loads of character and a lovely beer garden with views over the estuary. One of the big attractions is that it has no road access. To get there you need to walk, sail or bike so it’s really relaxed. There was a lovely old boat waiting in the Lock, I thought for the tide, but it was preparing for a new mast to be delivered. I just managed to drag myself away from the Turf to head on down beside the Estuary. The cycle path petered out after the pub but after a few bumps along a river walking path I reached a very quiet and smooth road and sped down to Starcross where I picked up the incredible disappearing cycle path NCN 2 again. I followed its wee blue signs which by-passed Dawlish Warren and then it was onto the busy main road through Dawlish towards Teignmouth. 

Off the tracks

Near Holcombe there is a path off to left of the main road down to the sea.  After a bit of a carry, up around twenty steps, you reach a fairly wide ledge alongside the Brunel engineered main south west railway line. (When you take the train from Penzance to London this is perhaps the most stunning stretch of track as you feel you are right on the edge of the sea). Riding a bike with a twenty foot drop to the ocean on one side and a high speed train on the other isn't ideal and Network Rail threaten a heavy fine if they catch you! Having made Teignmouth without mishap it was back to the bustle of the town and then a crossing of the River Teign.  Shaldon, on the southern side of the river, was quite smart but I needed the climbing legs as I took a detour around the headland and back onto the main road towards Torquay. The A379 was busy and undulating so it was quite a relief when I reached Babbacombe and the Torbay ‘English Riviera’ came into sight. Had a quick cycle through Torquay and gained a positive impression of the shopping centre and the place before carrying on to neighbouring Paignton. I rode past Moses a white haired prophet who sits by the pavement and waves at the traffic. Many of the drivers give him a toot, I didn't ride over his feet or ring my bell!

Paignton, where I planned to stay the night, looked to be the poor relation of the Torbay family. I suppose if you can get a B & B for £20 a night with en-suite and a full English breakfast it must be a signal that it’s not a trendy, thriving tourist hot spot. My B & B was fine and I had a good dinner at Wetherspoons around the corner.

Spotted that they have a steam train at Paignton that goes down to Dartmouth; now that would be fun. You can buy a ticket  for about £20 that takes you by Steam Train and Lower Ferry to Dartmouth, then by boat up the Dart to Totnes followed by a bus back to Paignton. A fun day out I'm certain but decided to stick with the bike.