Devon - Passing time in Salcombe

Salcombe - Estuary and beaches

Near Bolt Head on the coastal path

I like Salcombe! 
It’s not great when you are driving a car because the roads are so narrow. It’s not even that great for cycling either because the roads are also pretty steep. What it is, during off-season anyway, is laid back, mild and relaxed. I can’t get over the trees! Salcombe is so sheltered that the trees extend from the top of the hills right down to the water’s edge or to the cusp of  the sandy beaches. Venture out of the estuary and onto the coastal path and the wind blows your hat off!

Salcombe – narrow roads with passing places

The approach roads are narrow, very narrow. The hedgerows are high and eyes need to be peeled for vehicles coming the other way. Will they stop and is there a passing place? One of us will need to reverse to the nearest wide area! Will they go back or will I have to? More often than not it’s the opposing vehicle that goes into reverse and we exchange hand signals. There is a definite flourish to a Devon wave. We practice between passing places, ours looks too much like a royal wave, need to keep practising!

In town

Ferry from South Sands

South Sands Ferry transferring passengers

From our balcony we could see the South Sands ferry to Salcombe come and go every 30 mins, there is no dock so a tractor on stilts goes out to meet the boat.

View towards Salcombe

We stayed in an Apartment at South Sands, accommodation was definitely a cut above my recent shelters on my ride down from Dorchester.

Reasons to go to Salcombe

The man creche

1.      It's laid back and relaxed

2.      Very well sheltered

3.      Beautiful trees

4.      Sandy beaches

5.      No Supermarkets

6.      Great scenery

7.      Mobiles phones don’t work very well.

8.      Beautiful coastal walks

9.      Ferry rides

Soar Mill Cove

1.      Pubs

1.      Plenty of places to visit in the locality

Reasons not to go to Salcombe

1.      Eating out can be pricey?

2.      Roads are a bit narrow in places, need to practice reversing and waving.

View to Salcombe from Overbecks

Cycling in Southwest England - Bike from Paignton to Salcombe via Dartmouth (3 of 3)

Riding a quiet corner of Devon - 50km

Paignton to Salcombe

Dartmouth - heading out on the estuary

Aiming for Salcombe today.
Started the day by having breakfast with an Aussie couple from Sydney who were touring the South of England. Not sure what exactly they have made of Paignton, but they thought the areas' description as the English Riviera was a bit humorous. Anyway they were having a good time driving around visiting Tolpuddle, Salisbury, Bath etc. and today were off to the gardens of Cornwall.

Heading across country

After a decent cooked breakfast at my bargain B & B I set sail for Dartmouth. The Main Road, A379, was busy but I was particularly keen to see Dartmouth and fighting the traffic seemed to be the easiest option. Reaching the Dart River I embarked on the High Ferry floating bridge, a bargain at only 50p for bike and rider. The more expensive Lower Ferry, further downstream, seemed to be a raft that was pushed by a tug! Dartmouth looked really smart, had a bit of nose around and vowed to return.

A look back at Slapton

Climbed up and out of Dartmouth on a back road which was deathly steep but the beautiful countryside made up for the pain. Had to rejoin the main road at Stoke Fleming before stopping for a coffee at Blackpool Sands – a very nice bay and beach! It’s very easy to overshoot the entrance as you belt down the hill, well, I missed it anyway! My last stretch of main road took me, via Slapton Sands, to Torcross. This was a wartime training area, preparing for D-Day, and tragically nearly 1000 American Troops died when their exercise was interrupted by German MTB’s. Lessons were learned no doubt and there is a Sherman Tank monument to those who perished.

Trees right down to the beach at Mill  Bay

Harbour-side lunch in Salcombe

For me it was then a ‘welcome’ return to NCN 2 and minor roads. The hill out of Torcross was  very hard and this was then followed by a breezy ride across the high country towards East Portlemouth. The descent back down to sea-level was on a farm track through beautiful woods which ended up at Mill Bay where I had my first sight of lovely Salcombe across the water. The ride up the estuary  towards the ferry was exceedingly pleasant and laid back, so nice in fact that I continued on past the dock and explored more of the small coves in the direction of South Pool. 

Then retraced my route back to the East Portlemouth Ferry and a small open boat ride across to Salcombe (about £1:80 with the bike). Bit of a carry up the steps from the dockside up to the street but you can dock further upriver to avoid any lifting.

I grabbed a Devon Pasty and a jam doughnut for my late lunch from a traditional bakery and sat by the Harbour to eat my well earned meal. Now, where is our Apartment for the week?

Cycling in Southwest England - Bike from Beer to Paignton - 85km - (2 of 3)

Disobeying Holy Orders

Beer for Breakfast, Tea on the ‘Riviera’ - 85km

Beer to Paignton

Had a good sleep in my bottom bunk and headed down for Breakfast in Beer. My companions were two German ladies, one was driving a little car around Southern England, and the other had based herself in Beer and was riding buses to various points in Dorset and Devon and then taking the footpaths home. Our walker had taken an Easy Jet flight from Berlin to Bristol and had made the mistake of over-nighting in Bristol before heading for the country. Not a pleasant experience!

View from Peak Hill

Anyway, back on the bike and NCN 2 for a very scenic but hilly ride through the hills from Beer, past Branscombe and then on to wrinkly Sidmouth. The hill out of Sidmouth is a corker and I decided to take the opportunity to enjoy a brief stroll. Having battled up Peak Hill last year and then seen professionals on light-weight bikes with no baggage struggle up it on the Tour of Britain I calculated that I could just about be excused my pedestrian ascent. Climbed back on Rosinnante for the descent though ....whoosh! Last year I got a bit lost on the stretch between Sidmouth and Budleigh Salterton and ended up on busy roads. This time I deliberately gave up on the NCN 2 for a while but made sure I rejoined it at the section where it follows a ‘disused’ railway line into Exmouth. Cycle-paving over the tracks may only be the second best use of a Railway Line but it’s difficult to beat the nice flat rides they provide.

Exe Estuary Expedition

South on the Canal

At Exmouth I decided not to take the ferry over to Starcross but to cycle up the estuary on the eastern side and then down the other on the canal towpath. It was a good track most of the way towards Exeter but I seemed to get a bit lost, or the track disappeared. I ended up on a busy road and then a Council Estate. Once over the bridge to the South of Exeter and onto the canal tow path things improved considerably. Very quiet and scenic ride towards Lunch at the end of the Canal!

Just by the exit/entry Lock , where the Canal meets the Estuary, there is a lovely old Hotel. I like The Turf (www.turfpub.net)! 

At the Turf

A Cyclists Lunch

Apparently the local council wanted to flatten it a few years back but the local museum got involved and it was saved. What a tragedy if it had been demolished and replaced by a seventies style flat roofed monstrosity, or perhaps a hole in the ground? I had a simple sausage sandwich lunch with a pint of the local brew. It has loads of character and a lovely beer garden with views over the estuary. One of the big attractions is that it has no road access. To get there you need to walk, sail or bike so it’s really relaxed. There was a lovely old boat waiting in the Lock, I thought for the tide, but it was preparing for a new mast to be delivered. I just managed to drag myself away from the Turf to head on down beside the Estuary. The cycle path petered out after the pub but after a few bumps along a river walking path I reached a very quiet and smooth road and sped down to Starcross where I picked up the incredible disappearing cycle path NCN 2 again. I followed its wee blue signs which by-passed Dawlish Warren and then it was onto the busy main road through Dawlish towards Teignmouth. 

Off the tracks

Near Holcombe there is a path off to left of the main road down to the sea.  After a bit of a carry, up around twenty steps, you reach a fairly wide ledge alongside the Brunel engineered main south west railway line. (When you take the train from Penzance to London this is perhaps the most stunning stretch of track as you feel you are right on the edge of the sea). Riding a bike with a twenty foot drop to the ocean on one side and a high speed train on the other isn't ideal and Network Rail threaten a heavy fine if they catch you! Having made Teignmouth without mishap it was back to the bustle of the town and then a crossing of the River Teign.  Shaldon, on the southern side of the river, was quite smart but I needed the climbing legs as I took a detour around the headland and back onto the main road towards Torquay. The A379 was busy and undulating so it was quite a relief when I reached Babbacombe and the Torbay ‘English Riviera’ came into sight. Had a quick cycle through Torquay and gained a positive impression of the shopping centre and the place before carrying on to neighbouring Paignton. I rode past Moses a white haired prophet who sits by the pavement and waves at the traffic. Many of the drivers give him a toot, I didn't ride over his feet or ring my bell!

Paignton, where I planned to stay the night, looked to be the poor relation of the Torbay family. I suppose if you can get a B & B for £20 a night with en-suite and a full English breakfast it must be a signal that it’s not a trendy, thriving tourist hot spot. My B & B was fine and I had a good dinner at Wetherspoons around the corner.

Spotted that they have a steam train at Paignton that goes down to Dartmouth; now that would be fun. You can buy a ticket  for about £20 that takes you by Steam Train and Lower Ferry to Dartmouth, then by boat up the Dart to Totnes followed by a bus back to Paignton. A fun day out I'm certain but decided to stick with the bike.

Cycling in Southwest England - Bike from Dorchester to Beer (1 of 3)

An afternoon ride across Dorset 70km

Dorchester to Beer

I passed this way a year ago and really enjoyed the Dorset countryside on NCN 2. It’s a nice quiet route albeit with a few hills particularly on the approach to Devon.

Hardy Monument

Typical Dorset Countryside

Set off down the Weymouth Road in Dorchester for a short distance and then took a right turn to join NCN 2. The City and the traffic were soon left behind and I was into open country. Headwind today! A bit bumpy across a farm track before getting back on the road through Martinstown and heading up the big hill towards the Hardy Monument. Need to be hardy to get up there! This is not a memorial to Thomas Hardy, the local author, but to Sir Thomas Masterman Hardy (kiss me Hardy) a distant relation who captained HMS Victory at Trafalgar. It’s closed at the moment but, when open, it provides great views from its chimney top towards Portland. For every uphill there is fortunately a downhill and I cruised down and on to the Bredy bunch. Little Bredy, Long Bredy – and then Litton Cheney. Burton Bradstock would be a great name for an old Hollywood star; but I didn’t go there. 

Charmouth Beach

I headed North, under the A35 to Uploders, where there is a nice pub, and pedalled on North of Bridport to Dottery. Dottery sounds like a good retirement spot doesn’t it? Next up was Whitchurch Canicorum sounds like a disease or a fancy syndrome so I didn’t hang about very long and went down to Charmouth for some remedial sea air. After a good blow by the sea I was fully restored and clambered over the hill to Lyme Regis and Seaton. Ready for dinner now! As soon as I was checked in to the Beer Youth Hostel, had showered and had made up my bed I was off to the village looking for something substantial to eat. 

Fishing Boats at Beer

There are a few pubs and restaurants in Beer and eventually I settled on the Anchor by the harbour. Guinness, Fish and Chips with Spurs on the telly - sounds idyllic doesn’t it. Spurs were a bit lack-lustre and lost. Back at the YHA it was fairly quiet, a group of fellow cyclists were chatting in the lounge. Some youngsters on a college trip put their heads around the door, ugh; it’s full of old fogies! Cue for a bit of humour, huh I expect they expect us to sit in our sheltered bungalows, clutching our incontinence pads and dribbling - giggle- giggle. Fact is all five of us had cycled a fair distance over hilly terrain in a difficult wind and, with a combined age of over 300 the laugh was definitely on them.  Found my bunk very comfortable and no snoring!

Things to do at 60 and the good news about being old

Another one bites the dust
GDC made it to the ripe old age of sixty so have updated the list for him.

Things you need to do at 60 ......
Claim your winter fuel allowance 

Get your bus pass as soon as possible
Use National Express – half price travel
Sign up for ‘Aid – Call’
Get a free eye test
Move to Scotland or Wales and get a free dental check-up
Take advantage of  free chiropody
Buy a senior railcard? £26 gets 33% off.
Get free prescription drugs for all your ailments
Claim English Heritage discount
Claim National Trust discount
Try cross-country skiing – but start with a small country!

Get your B & Q Diamond Card – discounts on a Wednesday

Get your Focus DIY privilege card and get 10% off every day

Get 10% off Boots own brand goods with an Advantage Card

Claim senior discount on your Olympics tickets, just a dream this one!

Take more exercise - you will die healthier

The Good News about reaching 60 is.....
Kidnappers are not going to be very interested in you. 
In a hostage situation you are likely to be released first.
No one expects you to run into a burning building. 
People will call at 9 PM and ask, 'Did I wake you?' 
People will no longer view you as a hypochondriac. 
There is nothing left to learn the hard way!
Things you buy now will never wear out.
You can eat your dinner at 4 P.M. 
You will now really enjoy hearing about other people’s operations. 
You can have a party and the neighbours won't even realise it.
You no longer think of speed limits as a challenge.
You can sing along with Muzac.
Your eyes won't get much worse. 
Your joints have now become more accurate forecasters than the met office
Your secrets are safe with your friends because they can't remember them either.
You won’t even hear irritating noises!
Your supply of brain cells is finally down to manageable size.

Marlow to Checkendon and back on a bike

Highs and Hawthorns - 74 km

 

Do you remember the Spring of 2011?

This will be the mantra over the coming years.  Just like we've been saying “do you remember the Summer of ’76?" Today was yet another bright cloudless day and a one to savour on the bike. After a coffee at the recently refurbished Burgers in Marlow we headed off into the Chilterns. Whichever way you leave Town you hit a hill and, in this case, it was the fairly benign ascent up Chalkpit lane, heading up towards Frieth. This served as a gentle warm up for the Chiltern Hills that we would undoubtedly encounter very soon. We passed through the village of Fingest and then up the very steep long hill behind Turville. A couple in the group are very fast climbers and have time to read a paper when they get to the top! On this occasion they were attacked at the top by black bugs, serves them right! I sit somewhere in the middle puffing and plodding my way up.  At the top we re-formed and carried on through the lovely forested Turville Heath area towards Northend and Christmas Common. This is as high as you get around here and, after Cookley Green, there is a long descent where you can easily hit 50kph. The views to the right over the plain towards Oxford are superb. Mind you, we concentrated more on the potholes than distant views of the dreaming spires or Didcot Power Station.  The roads were so quiet, it reminded me of cycling in France. Aaah the blossom and scent of the Hawthorn as we pedal along. The going was nice and easy for about 10km but then there was pay-back! Another tough uphill to tackle. At least we knew that this time there was a pub at the top where lunch beckoned. Sitting in the garden with a pint at The Four Horseshoes in Checkendon isn’t a bad way to spend lunchtime and recover. Noisy Rooks and a cool wind couldn’t detract from my sausage baguette and the emergency provisions that TW had packed in by bike bag. And, as we were at the top of the hill, we knew it was pretty much downhill from here all the way to Henley.

Suitably refreshed, but slightly chilled, we trundled off down Hookend Lane towards Kidmore End, Sonning Common and Crowsley before we hit our only real traffic of the day in Henley. The multiple traffic lights slowed the motors down in Town but we soon left them  behind when we crossed the Thames bridge and took a left up Remenham Lane. Then it was over the weir at Mill End and onwards to Hambleden and our last climb, out of the village and up Pheasants Hill to the Frieth Road. Now it really was all downhill to home.

Incredibly it was still warm and sunny, time to sit out in the garden and read a book (about cycling). Tough this retirement lark!  Am sure we are going to pay for this good weather later in the year but we’ll worry about that when it happens.  “Remember the Spring of 2011?”