25.3.10

Ski Amade Tour - a day trip to Flachau via Alpendorf and Wagrain

Bad Hofgastein to Flachau - March 2010
Heading for home - above Alpendorf - downhill to the bus stop
The Ski Amade lift pass that we buy for the Gastein Valley also covers a large slice of this region of Austria. Today’s tour took us over to Flachau, home village of the Herminator, Hermann Maier.

Leaving the Gastein Valley at Dorfgastein we took the lift and skied down to Grossarl. From there the local bus took us on a 15 minute trip down the Grossarl valley to Alpendorf, an alpine village above St. Johann in Pongau. A succession of lifts and ski runs took us over the Gernkogel, Sonntagskogel and Grafenberg summits and down into Wagrain. At Wagrain it was a short shuttle bus ride, soon to be a lift, across town to the Flying Mozart lift and onwards up to the Griessenkareck summit above Flachau. Time out for lunch in the Waldgasthof then down the Hermann Maier World Cup run to Flachau valley station. Have to say I liked the look of Flachau. From what I saw it has wide open slopes, plenty of trees and excellent lifts. Methinks TW will get a little day trip soon.

Time to head home to Gastein on the reverse route. We needed to make the last chairlift at Grossarl to get us up and over to Dorfgastein before it stops at 4:15. We made it with 20 minutes to spare.
100km covered and greater appreciation gained of what is on, and over, the horizon from our valley.
Certainly worth taking a day out. Looking forward to returning next season.
There is no place like 'home' though! Very nice to be back in the Gastein Valley. The Ski Amade pass covers the buses as well as the ski lifts.

Berwyn - today's tour leader - takes a ride

24.3.10

Getting into Summer mode

As the weather has been so good it had to be lunch on the balcony after our cross-country expedition to Sportgastein.
I had a nice nap and then we headed for the Palace Hotel and the swimming pool. Doing OK in the pool, managed to do 20 lengths in one stint. Never thought in my life I would ever wear swimming goggles though! Now I’m in the pool for longer I found my eyes were getting really sore. At twelve euros they seem to be a very good investment. Still finding the goose grease a bit difficult to put on.
Across the valley from the skiing area is the Annen Cafe, a favourite watering hole.

Put the shorts on and TW led me up there for a walk on Wednesday. It’s on the eastern side of the valley where there is no skiing, just farms and forest. We walked up to about 1300m and then back to the Annen Cafe for lunch. Very nice beer and a salad. Then it was back to our balcony and a good book. Just like a summers day!
View across the valley, this is where we ski

High Noon in Sportgastein

It was 13 celsius at noon - 1600m.
 
No black today
Springtime in the Alps continued with a trip to Sportgastein for cross-country skiing. The Black loop was closed because of the Avalanche danger. We were perfectly safe but we heard, and saw, quite a few slips down the surrounding mountains. They say you never hear the shot that kills you, imagine it’s the same with avalanches. You see them long before the sound reaches your ears. We really enjoyed our circuits in the spring sunshine. The snow was a lot softer than I have been used to so am not sure how well the tracks would hold the skis on a fast downhill! Probably just as well the Black was closed!. The downhill skiers looked to be really struggling in the heat with all their helmets and heavy ski's. For us it was just a walk in the park.

23.3.10

March days in sunny Gastein

Back to the Chairlifts - skiing is not cold
TW and TBIL on the piste
A tadpole
TBIL on H1 - favourite piste
Our 8 person Gondolas are probably the fastest way to get to the top of the mountains. In the current spell of weather they are also the hottest mode of transport. Picture yourself sitting in a moving greenhouse on heated seats, dressed up like a tadpole in helmet and ski gear. It still beats the M4 on a Monday morning by a mile though. So today we are taking the chair-lifts whenever possible and staying in the sunshine and the fresh mountain air.


When you get to the top there is still plenty of snow and some of the runs are still in remarkably good condition. The piste-bashers do a fantastic job overnight.

There's just a bit of an end of season feel about the place now. The snow cannons are being removed so we will rely on the natural stuff and whatever has already been laid down. I expect the Easter skiers are starting to worry but, then again, could all change again next week.

By the way, it was 28 Celsius on our balcony at the weekend!


21.3.10

Birthday Girl on the slopes.

The birthday girl hit the slopes (not literally) resplendent in her new ski jacket.

Mother Nature laid on a hot sunny day for her birthday skiing with big brother.
Lunch was taken at the Barstein Alm where TW was given a very special schnapps! It looked more like an Irish Coffee! She is a non-drinker but managed to 'force' it down with a smile. That was the end of her ski operations for the day! The snow conditions were excellent up high but it was like skiing in sorbet near the bottom
Bit of a celebration in Bad Hofgastein in the evening. Not just for TW. Bernie Gruber from the village won a Vancouver Gold in the Nordic Combined.  That's the event where they Ski Jump then Langlauf (cross-country ski). A really big crowd was out to celebrate. Two town bands marched around town as well as school kids with flags they had made. Youngsters from the ski clubs carried their jumping skis. Bernie seemed an unassuming sort of chap and look pleased with the speeches made by the local dignatories. Music and beer followed.

18.3.10

It ain’t arf hot - skiing in the Gastein sunshine

Gastein in Mid-March
Jungerlift - springtime in Gastein

Spring has come to the  Salzburg Alps. Plenty of snow still on the ground but it is best to start 'work' early. The Stubnerkogel slopes are out of the sun in the morning and tend to be cooler.This chair can be really cold when the wind is up but on a beautiful day like today it's just the ticket.

TW has a birthday tomorrow and her big brother is arriving tonight.

17.3.10

Walking in Gastein - Doing it the Hardtweg in Bad Gastein

There’s a mountain in Gastein called Graukogel (2492m). It has old fashioned skiing with no snow-making. A leisurely two stage chairlift takes you up to around 2000m and from there you can take black, red or blue to the middle station. The runs are lovely as they are through the trees and it’s just so very, very quiet! It doesn’t link directly to any other area so it’s a standalone recreation area only a 10 minute bus ride from the bustle of Bad Gastein. It’s popular area with Alpine Touring skiers. They forgo the lifts and walk on their skis to the top. They put seal skins on the bottom of their skis so that they ‘get a grip’ on the way up. Once at the top they stop at Toni’s restaurant (which is excellent) and then, with skins removed and bindings reset, they whizz down. Not sure how the resort gets revenue though because no lift pass is required?  When the moon is full the Tourers have a race where the participants go up and down solidly for 24 hours. It’s a massive test of endurance, makes the London Marathon look like a walk in the park.

There is also an abundance of walking trails and climbing on the mountain. For a bit of variety, TW and our friends took one of the walks from Bad Gastein to the Grunen Baum. Called the Hardtweg it goes around the mountain through the trees. Have to say it’s a bit slippery at the time of year, looking forward to doing it again in the Summer when the ice has melted.
At the Winidschgratzhohe - just above Bad Gastein

Lunch was taken at the Windischgratzhohe, mmmm nice salad with bacon. We passed another gasthof ‘Rudolfshohe’ en route that was closed but looks worthy of further investigation next time we are wandering past.

14.3.10

Postcard from Sportgastein in March 2010

Sportgastein is the highest ski area in the Valley, it goes up to about 2700m
Mix of weather at Sportgastein

Sportgastein - take it from the top
The fast Gondola whisks you up to the top where the views are stunning. If it’s a bright sunny day then its certainly a great place to be. Undulating Reds and a Blue take you back to the middle station and its Red and Black down to the base station. The black is a bit hairy and scary when its icy. Today’s weather was a bit mixed so lunch took a bit longer than usual. We went to the Valerie Haus which is next to the cross-country at 1600m. The food is fine but the service is slow which is a bit unusual in this part of the world. I think the Valerie Haus was originally a shelter for people climbing in the area and was named after Marie Valerie, the youngest daughter of the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elizabeth (Sissi).




On the black in Sportgastein 

15th March 2010
Falling snow and high winds curtailed ski operations early today. Most of the high lifts were closed. Visibility was OK at start time but deteriorated as the morning wore on. It’s really weird when you lose track of what is up and what’s down and you find yourself hitting the ground head first. Oh well, at least it was soft powder. And, of course, there is always tomorrow.

‘After-Work’ Experience

We have had a youngster over for a week. At the ripe old age of 58 and three-quarters, it was time to give GDC some preparation for Retirement day. Just as youngsters get the opportunity to experience and endure the disciplines of the work-place for short periods prior to leaving full-time education its equally important that those nearing the end of their working life get an insight into what is in store for them.

End of visit report on GDC.

Fitness.

The individual is not adequately prepared for the rigours of retirement. He was under the impression that he was going to get a week’s holiday from the basic tasks of earning a crust and taxiing the family. In reality of course the regular and extended hours of physical exercise and the disciplines required were difficult for GDC to come to terms with.

For example, walking for a meal to Schmaranz a mere 40 minutes away prompted cries of ‘why can’t we take a taxi’. Answer: you won’t be able to afford it and it’s only about 5km. ‘But we can take one home can’t we?’ No, you won’t be able to afford a taxi and a dessert!

GDC did well with the skiing but stamina needs to be improved. Obviously too much time is spent sitting at his computer. The requirement for a coffee stop after a mere hour of skiing are plainly delusional. To do so would mean that valuable corduroy skiing time would be lost and it is an unnecessary expense so shortly after breakfast. We would suggest carrying a bottle of water would give adequate refreshment and this could be consumed on the lift thus maximising ski time!

Time-keeping

Time and tide wait for no man – and the buses certainly don’t hang around. GDC has been used to having a car and the flexibility that brings. He will have to adapt to public transport. If the bus timetable states 8:24 he will need to be at the stop at 8:22. Standing in the road to halt the bus between stops is, we feel, taking an unnecessary risk. This risk that could be avoided by adequate preparation and a timely departure from the ski room. Our analysis is that GDC is over dependent on his car. We would suggest leaving the car at home on occasions and perhaps walking or taking the train to work.

Mobile phones and texting

Not a suitable or respectable habit for retirees, staring at a 2 inch screen when all around are beautiful snow capped mountains is in our view a poor use of daylight. Gadgets have absolutely no place in the modern retired world.

Alcohol

Though alcohol is indeed a necessary and mandatory item for a retiree, a modicum of restraint should be observed in the future. A favoured expression of ‘noch einer’ should perhaps be more often replaced by ‘nein danke’.

This is, of course, purely for financial reasons. The benefits of ‘one more’ beer on one’s skiing ability are well proven. The resultant need for an urgent piste side pit-stop is of course embarrassing and unwelcome but should not be derided by the younger generation. Reap and thou shalt sow!

Eating Out

Only for holiday makers –remember skiing is your work, get it done, go home - then eat.
(p.s. those steaks in Schmaranz were sublime)

Snacking

There is clear evidence that GDC is a secret snacker. His bedroom was littered with a Mars and Twix wrappers and, though we appreciate his generosity in donating his surplus supplies of Mars bars to us, his secret is out. It also needs to be pointed out that a retirees teeth cannot cope with a frozen Mars bar nor the resultant heavy dental expense. Chocolate snacks are expensive, unhealthy and, for a retiree, entirely avoidable.

In conclusion

GDC will, in time, become a valuable member of the retirement community but he needs to be more realistic in his expectations. Food and drink on demand, easy and flexible transportation, will have to be replaced by discipline, fresh air and exercise.

So remember it NOT NOT NOT a holiday, its ‘real life’ At the end of the day your muscles are supposed to ache, you will have done dangerous things, you are hungry and thirsty. It’s what humans are designed for...... and no bloomin M4. Look forward to it!

GDC was a pleasure to work with we wish him well for the future. His comments in the Visitors Book were entirely correct however ‘wunderful’ ski guiding by Bob should have been spelt with an O not a U.
(pps when are you coming back, enjoyed the beers!)

10.3.10

Skiing in Grossarl

Over the mountain from Dorfgastein is the small village of Grossarl. Take the gondola up to Fulseck. Once you are over in Grossarl the skiing is fairly easy.
In the main, the pistes are wide and not too steep. Sadly it is not easy for a beginner to get over there as the upper runs are knee tremblers for a novice. It gets the sun in the morning so we followed the sun and skied Grossarl before the beering hour and Dorfgastein in the afternoon. There are two gondolas up from the valley and also a fast chair that gives access to some good runs.

Lunch was taken in the Jagerhutte. There is a separate smoking and ‘kids’ area. Small goats have an area of their own!

The Goat herd
GDC tried to stop anyone getting out!

8.3.10

Ski Sunday - in Angertal

Pretty on the blue
TW was out on her downhill ski’s today. As I was the instructor I also had to hit the blue runs. She did very well. Just needs to build confidence in her ability to stop.  Mind you, one of the blue runs seems to be uphill so really good for pole practice.

A welcome dose of new snow overnight. Nice to see the snow on the trees.

3.3.10

Good Morning and Good Afternoon - Bad Hofgastein


Sunny day in March on H1. New snow on nice cruising section. Off to the left is a favourite summer walk.



Hut for rent, this hut is on piste H1/H2. Long way from the pub but no ski buses are required.


Getting ready for the 'off'. At the top of the new Stubnerkogel lift from Bad Gastein.

Apres Ski - Down on the Farm

Schmaranz
Our idea of Apres Ski is not that conventional!
After ski today we went on bit of a circular walking tour. We walked down the valley and stopped at a favourite watering hole - Schmaranz. It’s a farm where they brew, very tasty, bio beer. The restaurant is well worth a visit, very atmospheric and rustic setting. We always enjoy the food. If you sit inside in winter you can watch it cooking. Had a very nice beer, you can see it brewing through the window. We reserved a table to eat there next week when GDC is over from UK. Can't wait! You need to book a Table in advance and Ruhetag is Sunday.
Snow starts to fall
On the walk back a little snow started to fall. Lots of snow days next week, if the forecast is to be believed. Our return route south, up the valley, is elevated so you get a nice panorama of Bad Hofgastein. Didn't see anyone else out walking, they probably have more sense.

Cafe Pirnbacher
Cafe Pirnbacher was en route, honestly we did not stop! Worth a visit though.
Schmaranz

Our idea of Apres Ski is not that conventional!
After ski today we went on bit of a circular walking tour. We walked down the valley and stopped at a favourite watering hole - Schmaranz. It’s a farm where they brew, very tasty, bio beer. The restaurant is well worth a visit, very atmospheric and rustic setting. We always enjoy the food. If you sit inside in winter you can watch it cooking. Had a very nice beer, you can see it brewing through the window. We reserved a table to eat there next week when GDC is over from UK. Can't wait! You need to book a Table in advance and Ruhetag is Sunday.


Snow starts to fall
On the walk back a little snow started to fall. Lots of snow days next week, if the forecast is to be believed. Our return route south, up the valley, is elevated so you get a nice panorama of Bad Hofgastein. Didn't see anyone else out walking, they probably have more sense.

Cafe Pirnbacher
Cafe Pirnbacher was en route, honestly we did not stop! Worth a visit though, try the Toast Hawaii

Getting dark in Bad Hofgastein

2.3.10

Austria - March 2010 - Down in the valley

Bit of a Rest Day (Ruhetag) today. 
Cycling up the Ache towards Bad Gastein


On the bike route down the valley

We took the opportunity of this current spell of milder weather to take a short bike ride up the valley to Bad Bruck. Nice and flat along the Ache; which is how TW likes it. Great things bikes, you don’t use them for months but then you just dust them off, put some air in the tyres, and off you go.


Langlauf loipe in the Kur Park
It’s due to get colder again tomorrow so I put my best downhill skis in for a service. I have something called a Gastein Card and it gives me a third off. That makes it 16€ which is a pretty keen price for a full service. TW is making her first carrot cake in Austria. It’s one of her specialities, just hope the ingredients have been translated correctly. Haven’t heard any bangs from the kitchen yet but Zimt and Backpulver sound pretty explosive to me! Could be fireworks later!
As you can see the snow in the valley is not what it was but the Langlauf loop in our Park is still open. More snow is on the way later this week.

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