New Zealand - the 2024 tour - Week 5 - Motueka to Collingwood and Appleby - 24th February to 4th March

 Good as Gold - A trip to Golden Bay

The Courthouse Cafe

Golden Bay was probably the area I was most looking forward to visiting and it did not disappoint. The road from Motueka to Takaka goes over the Takaka Hill and is steep and winding. Happily TW was OK. We stopped at the Mussell Inn for coffee on the way to the little town of Collingwood where we had 5 nights booked at the Potters Cottage. It was a little rustic with no telly which seemed very appropriate for the area. Cooking facilities were limited but we had our own hot plate and saucepan.

It was located right next door to the lovely Courthouse Cafe. 

We had a celebratory arrival lunch of very tasty smoked fishcakes there before checking in to the Cottage. Probably our nicest lunch in NZ. TW really liked the Ginger Bear. 

The Potters worked and sold their products behind the Cottage.

Ginger Bear for TW

The Tide is in at Collingwood

St Cuthberts in Collingwood

Tide is out in Collingwood

Up the hill above our cottage there was an old wooden church, St Cuthberts, that was worth a look-see. Potters Cottage is only a stones throw from town so we were in a very convenient location. The tide was out when we took our first walk and the coastline wasn't looking at its best. However, we were to discover later that a short distance to the South, at Milnthorpe, there was a beautiful beach. Collingwood Town is quite small but it has a well stocked Supermarket and a pub so we were quite happy. What else do you need?

Collingwood Coast

Our first excursion was to Farewell Spit to the North. We parked in the Car Park and walked along the sheltered inland sea. Black Swans have made it their home. They love the vegetation here and there were hundreds of them. We tried not to disturb the sand flies that were sitting on the sea weed! We walked along the beach until we cut inland across to the wild ocean. It was like chalk and cheese. A long sandy beach stretched to infinity. We had a lovely breezy walk in the sunshine on the beach before turning it into a circular walk by following a track through bush and a sheep farm back to our little car. 

On the beach Farewell Spit

The All Blacks - Oyster Catchers at Farewell Spit

At the start of Farewell Spit

Style and steps

We had hoped to find a Kiwi Cafe on the way back to Collingwood for a nice lunch. We did find one at a campsite but it looked to be both closed and not too appealing so we headed back to base for lunch in the cottage. After a siesta we had an interesting walk up behind our cottage to the Old 'Settler' Cemetery and a Lookout. Quite a steep walk through bush to get there but worth it.

The Langford Store 

TW at Salisbury Falls

Salisbury Falls

This region is quite thinly populated so shops and cafes are a rarity. We did find an interesting coffee stop on the way to Salisbury Falls. The Langford Store was very rustic but we enjoyed a good visit. We chatted to a cyclist from Cambridge in the North Island and also a couple on e-bikes that were going to Europe for the Olympics in the Summer. Salisbury Falls was quite pleasant although we didn't venture into the water. We bumped into the e-bikers again there. After lunch at Potters Cottage we investigated Milnthorpe Beach. Had a bit of a dip in the ocean, quite pleasant in the late afternoon sunshine. The e-bikers were there as well of course.

Time for a dip at Milnthorpe

Milnthorpe Beach

Wharariki Beach in the North was our next target. To get here we headed North towards Farewell Spit before turning right onto what became a dirt road. This was a really big walking day! We walked through sheep pasture on the Greenhills track  to get to the beach but the tide was in and it was impossible for us to get down to the Ocean Beach. So, we found a shady spot and had lunch before heading back to the Car Park for a drink at the Cafe. Suitably refreshed we headed back to the beach by a more direct route. By this time the water had receded and we could walk along a fantastic series of beaches interspersed with rocky outcrops and caves. Absolutely stunning. We walked back to the car on the Greenhills track. Note to self - check tide tables before going here.

Heading towards Wharariki Beach

Where sheep gently graze

We felt we had not done justice to Farewell Spit on our first visit so we went back on our last day and headed along the coast towards the lighthouse. It was a great walk into the breeze but the previous days marching took its toll on us and we didn't make it unfortunately. Maybe next time. 

We were sorry to leave Collingwood as five days was not enough. We had such a great time and it is so idyllic. We headed back towards Nelson but not before making a couple of stops along the way. 

Tata Beach

We had a lovely pit-stop in Takaka and found a very friendly cafe called De-Lish for coffee and cake. Again we chatted to some cyclists. This time they were quite elderly and jolly sisters. Takaka is a rather laid back and hippy which suited us. It was then off to Tata Beach, a favourite from last time we were here. In 2012 it was earlier in the season but now the sun was shining and the water was warm so we both had no excuse for not having a dip. Lovely! 

Time to climb over the Takaka Hill and our next digs near Appleby, a new suburb in the Richmond Area. Getting any accommodation is a bit tricky in this part of the season so we could not leave it to the last moment. We would have tried to stay in Takaka if we had not booked somewhere already. Anyway, our new digs were very smart and in an extension to new house. The washing machine was very welcome.

Cosy Appleby Cottage was a very convenient base. We popped into Richmond. It seemed a lot busier than we remembered. It has expanded a lot in the last 12 years. We had our ritual Coffee in town at the Ambrosia before heading to Mapua Wharf for lunch at the Smokehouse. Lovely Fish and Chips from the paper and so inexpensive.