From Geraldine we skirted around Christchurch heading for Amberley a small town to the North and our staging post on the way to Kaikoura. The Teviot View Motel was very comfortable and the hosts were friendly. We had a wander on the beach at the end of the road. It was not a paddling day on Amberley Beach. The weather was still a bit wild after the recent storm. I ventured for a hair cut in the Barbers next to the Supermarket. I had to wait a short time but the other customers were friendly and one recommended we go to Ohau Point near Kaikoura to see the seals. Turned out to be an excellent tip. Amberley has a very fine Pie Shop which, of course, we visited and picked up lunch.
Kaikoura
Kaikoura is a well-known tourist spot. Despite a significant earthquake a few years back, the damage isn't readily apparent. The seabed rose during the quake, it seems. We spoke with a local woman who endured the terrifying event. Whales are the main draw here, with many companies offering aerial and sea tours to view these marine monsters. We chose to remain ashore and thoroughly enjoyed our visits to the seal colonies dotting the coastline. Our visit lasted two nights. Later, we saw a television program revealing the seals' struggles with malnourishment, the causes of which remain unknown, which is quite disheartening. Kaikoura is also an excellent location for coastal walks, and we were fortunate that the sun made a re-appearance. During our walk, TW spotted an entire pod of white-bellied dolphins!
Dozing in the sunshine
Our favourite seal
Pasture above Kaikoura
Kaikoura
Havelock Mail Boat Delivers
Two months ago, we vowed to return to Havelock and experience the Mail Boat in Pelorus Sound. Despite concerns about the autumn weather, we were greeted with a perfect day. We stayed in Picton and set off on an early journey to Havelock. I was in charge of navigation but, regrettably, took a wrong turn. Upon our tardy arrival, we were met by a rather stern lady who pointed out we were the last to check in. The car park had a peculiar system: I had to note our car registration on an envelope, insert the fee, and post it. Additionally, a document with the same details had to be displayed on the car's dashboard. Typically, I had no pen, which led me to borrow one from the check-in lady. To complicate matters, I realized I didn't know our car's registration number. Whilst I was outside, the lady requested her pen back, pushing me deeper into the dog house. I hope that I am either forgiven or forgotten by now.
The cruise was a another highlight of our New Zealand adventure. Gliding over the tranquil blue waters to different communities around the Sound was incredibly enjoyable. For some, the Mail Boat's arrival seemed to be the highlight of their day, or even their week. Dogs even showed up to receive their treats from the Ferry Man. Our visit to Wilsons Bay Farm, located at the midpoint, was fascinating. Trevor and Kelly, who manage the farm, were our hosts. Kelly provided us with a deep understanding of what living off-grid in New Zealand entails. Without access to mains water or power, they depend on a generator, for three hours a day, and a small hydro system made from a washing machine. They offer guest accommodations in the summer, but it's clear that their lifestyle is far from easy. The sheep and wool market isn't what it used to be. However, their mussel beds likely generate some income. Wild pigs are a source of protein. Trevor introduced us to a variety of fruit trees on the property. It seems that, as with many rural communities, some sense of community has been lost, with locals being replaced by holiday home visitors. It must, however, have been a lovely place for their children to grow up. They were home schooled before heading to Nelson. The Farmers are very reliant on the Mail Boat as a Water Taxi to Havelock costs $500.
Wilsons Bay Farm
Mussell beds in the Sound
Trevor and Kelly wave us away from Wilsons Bay Farm
The Posties
The Churchyard in Havelock is interesting to us as relatives were settlers here and a number of them are buried in the Cemetery.
Picton
It was our first time staying in the Picton area. Our motel, the Bay View on Waikawa Road, was delightful, situated right by the Sound. It was easy to picture Kiwi guests arriving with boats in tow, ready to launch them into the water. Naturally, a three-night stay meant we had just two days for exploration. We dedicated one of those to our Post Boat experience. On our remaining day, we took a leisurely stroll around town and enjoyed an even more relaxed lunch at the Seabreeze Cafe, followed by a pleasant walk at Karaka Point. We wanted to stay on for an extra night but our popular Motel was fully booked. So, it was now time to head South as we had just a few days until our flight from Christchurch.
Picton Harbour
Picton Harbour
Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre
Situated just outside Blenheim, the Aviation Heritage Centre boasts a fascinating collection of aircraft. It has two large exhibition hangars dedicated to World War I and World War II planes. The exhibits are displayed in an imaginative way with some aircraft being original and others being full-scale replicas. It is just along the road from our favourite pie shop Burleigh Gourmet Pies. An interesting Museum followed by a super pie - what's not to like.
Blenheim - Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre
Heading South - destination Kaikoura
After a further night stop in Kaikoura we opted to head to Hanmer Springs rather than Arthurs Pass. Seriously bad weather was forecast for the West Coast and that could have impacted our trip. Bit of a shame but it was probably a good decision as there were reports later of severe flooding and road damage. We wouldn't have seen much anyway.
Alexandra is a notable cycling hub, situated on the Otago Rail Trail, one of New Zealand's iconic bike trails.
Alexandra is a pleasant town of a decent size. It's less touristy compared to other nearby towns, giving it more of a homely feel.
Our motel in Cromwell had warned us about a potential bike shortage during Easter, so we reserved in advance and managed to pick up the last two bikes at the rental shop. We collected them on Good Friday and returned them on Easter Sunday.
On the Otago Rail Trail to Clyde
True to its name, the Otago Rail Trail follows the old railway line, meaning it's pretty flat. We hopped on the trail at the abandoned Alexandra Station, not far from our AL Motel. Our ride took us to Clyde, a quaint little town nestled on the banks of the River Clutha, where we planned to stop for lunch. The trail wound through pastoral farmland and past vineyards. Although there was a coffee stop near Alexandra Station, we sped past. Clyde's layout is spread out, with broad streets lined with bungalows. We ended up getting lost and had to use the Sat Nav to find our way. Eventually, we discovered the Old Post Office off the main street and stopped there for lunch. There were other cyclists there as well. Interestingly, Kiwi cyclists seem quite casual about security, rarely locking their bikes. That's a concept TW just can't grasp, so we made sure our bikes were always locked up tight.
Our route home was on the other side of the Clutha River. We crossed over on a very old road bridge and had an interesting ride through woods alongside the Clutha. It was a more technical ride and the occasional cyclist coming in the other direction was something of a threat.
The old Post Office
Saddling up at the Old Post Office
Keeping wicket
Jetboat on The Clutha
On the Otago Rail Trail to Chatto Creek
On the second day of our cycling extravaganza, we ventured in the opposite direction along the Rail Trail towards a Country Pub at Chatto Creek. This time, there was no circular route—just a ride up to the pub for lunch, followed by the pedal home. The countryside appeared more wild and empty, with everything seeming tinder-dry. Happily it wasn't dry at the pub. We chatted to a retired Farmer who'd moved to Otago from Geraldine. We learned a lot from him. He told us it was a very hot area in Summer, if you have a job to do you get up early. He was a keen hunter. His wife was away for the weekend, playing bowls. We asked if he played, nah couldn't take the excitement.
Alexandra - Off to the pub at Chatto Creek
The dunny - not in use happily
Chatto Creek
A look inside at Chatto Creek
Remember the original from National Geographic
Nice Hippo
A kiwi farm on the trail
Happy Cyclist
Bella's in Alexandra
We very much enjoyed our stay in Alexandra. Our AL Parkview Motel owner was a keen cyclist and his garage was well set up for bike charging and storage. We did not have time, or the budget, to check out the local Restaurants in the evening. We had intended to revisit Monteiths on the other side of Pioneer Park where we had a good Dinner on our last visit 12 years ago. Hiring e-bikes anywhere is expensive and NZ is no exception. It costs around $100 NZ per day for each bike.
Over the Burkes Pass to Twizel
Lake Pukaki - a Himalayan Tahir
Three Nights in Twizel
The area boasts three large lakes: Pukaki, Tekapo, and Ohau, all formed by retreating glaciers. Our base, Twizel, was ideal. Originally constructed to house workers for the major hydroelectric projects, Twizel was planned for demolition. However, people chose to remain, and it has since grown into a substantial community. We rented a lovely property for our stay, and resolved to explore all three lakes before continuing northward.
Lake Pukaki
Mount Cook.
The journey from Twizel to The Hermitage Mt Cook Village is quite direct, with no difficult winding roads to navigate. We discovered a pleasant coffee stop at the Glentanner Park Centre on the way. It's a Helicopter base and Holiday Park.
At the Tourist Office near the Hermitage, we purchased a map and the helpful lady gave us some trail recommendations. We embarked on the Hooker Valley track starting from the White Horse Hill Campground and also the Tasman Glacier Walk from the Tasman Glacier Car Park. Both treks were definitely worth the effort. Lunch at the Hermitage was acceptable; the place has grown considerably since my last visit, and although the self-service cafeteria was bustling with coach parties, it was OK.
It was starting to get dark by the time we left Mt. Cook so TW suggested star-gazing. It was a clear night and obviously clean air so we had a good sighting of the Milk Way from a Car Park by Lake Pukaki. It was a very tired pair of tourists that arrived back to our Twizel home.
Walking at Mt. Cook
Mt Cook and Lake Pukaki
Mount Cook
Caution - climbing mountains can be dangerous
Lake Ohau
Lake Ohau
Lake Ohau, often overlooked, is the most pristine of the three lakes. Despite the weather not being ideal, our visit was very enjoyable. Lunch at Ohau Lodge was a delight. Ohau is on the The Alps to Ocean cycle ride. It is a fascinating journey that begins at either Tekapo or Mount Cook and concludes on the East Coast in Oamaru. There are organized tours that transport your luggage and assist those who need help cycling over the steep pass out of the Ohau valley. Talking with several cyclists, it was clear they were thoroughly enjoying the experience. Ohau Lodge featured on their itinerary and did not disappoint; it was the perfect Kiwi hotel experience.
Lake Ohau
View from Ohau Lodge
Lake Tekapo
Lake Tekapo Observatory
We had visited Tekapo previously. It has now become even more a tourist hotspot, and the accommodation prices are exorbitant! Thus, ours was merely a brief visit on the way to Geraldine. The lake itself remains as beautiful as ever. It's a bit more picturesque with snow-capped mountains in Spring, but we enjoyed a delightful sunny day for a lakeside picnic and a trip to the St. John's Observatory. Previously, we had hiked up, but this time we took our little car up the steep toll road. The views from up there are breathtaking.
Lake Tekapo
Great Motto
Walking by Lake Tekapo
Observing at St. Johns
Telescopic view
Tekapo town from St. Johns Observatory
From our vantage point, we could see the clouds cascading over the mountaintop, and as expected, as soon as we climbed from Tekapo towards Geraldine, we encountered rain. Sadly, Geraldine was chilly and rainy. We paused at Barkers in Geraldine for a drink before heading to our motel. After all the splendid weather we had enjoyed, it was disheartening to sense it drawing to a close.
