New Zealand Holiday - week 3 - Matakohe, Ohakune and Whanganui - 10th February to 17th February

Heading Southward on the North Island.

Ferry from Kohukohe to Ramene.


Opononi

Following a delightful stay in Ranjiputa, we started our southward journey to Matakohe. Although travel days are not popular with us, the route offered plenty to see. We opted for the Western route through Kaitaia and the Twin Coast Discovery Highway rather than heading back the way we had come. The West may not be New Zealand's most affluent region but it was nice to see it. We enjoyed a pleasant coffee break in Kohukohu while awaiting the ferry to Ramene. We enjoyed the cruise across what seemed to be the estuary of several rivers and then paused for a picnic lunch purchased the 4 Square at Opononi. Opononi seemed to be a popular spot for family holidays. It's also at the end of the bike trail from Opua, named the Twin Coast Trail, so there were many cyclists in evidence. Daresay a hot ride in mid-summer.  We then continued through the National Park  Kauri Forest, via a long and winding winding road.

Tāne Mahuta - Lord of the forest

The oldest Kauri tree in the Park is a bit of a celebrity. You have to dip your shoes in disinfectant before taking a track to view it. Not a pleasant experience in sandals! It's a big tree though!

Our cabin in Matakohe

Matakohe used to be the centre of the logging trade but the local Kauri Forest has long since headed for the Sawmill.We had a nice little hut for our overnight at Matakohe Holiday Park. The friendly site owner was planning to sell up and move to the West. We were just happy to have somewhere to stay after our drive. It was another long drive to the nearest 4 Square in Paparoa to buy dinner. I had difficulty finding anything we could cook but eventually settled on two roast dinners from their freezer to be microwaved back at the Hut. 
There is a large Kauri Museum in Matakohe that was recommended to us but it was a steep entrance price for the time we had available so we passed on that and moved on - direction Auckland. Probably a mistake.

Anyway, another day of driving was ahead of us as we aimed to pass through Auckland and reach the town of Taumarunui. We stopped for coffee in Wellsford, north of Auckland, a town in the more affluent East. Our sat nav or, its user, malfunctioned, leading us astray. This allowed us to see quite a bit of the area. It's where they film the Brokenwood series. We half-expected to encounter Mrs. Marlow or some illegal activity, but alas, none was to be seen.

We got back on the Motorway, which operates as a toll road demanding online payment. We had remembered to pay on our northbound journey but completely forgot this time. It was only several days later that we remembered, risking a fine. Fortunately, Budget had already covered the northern toll, so we were unexpectedly in credit—what a relief!

Navigating through the bustling Auckland traffic was not too difficult and we were relieved to cross the City without significant delays. We enjoyed the drive over the Harbour Bridge. Our picnic lunch was at the exotic location of Bombay. Confusing detours near Hamilton caused us to lose our way for a time, but we eventually crossed the plains to Taumarunui. We might have stayed in Te Kuiti but some drunks in a Ute put a negative spin on the place dubbed the sheep shearing capital of New Zealand. The day and the drive was wasn't the highlight of our time in New Zealand; the other drivers were in a rush, and large Utes frequently loomed in our rearview mirror.

Note: Driving in NZ can be fun but if you want to drive fairly slowly to take in the scenery then you need to pull over regularly to let tailgaters through.

Auckland - going south



Tamaranui

We found a Motel in the centre of Tamaranui. It was once a prosperous community but, on first impressions, looked a bit sad today. We opted to eat at the RSA, normally they are pretty good. However, sadly this was a mistake. I think the staff just wanted to get home.

We were on our way smartly the next Morning heading for Ohakune in the Shadow of Mount Ruapehu.

Today's journey was a great deal more pleasant than the previous day. We stopped at Raurimu where there is a famous railway spiral. I went to the lookout but could not see the engineering marvel. I know it's there somewhere as I rode the train through here some years ago. 

We stopped for our ritual morning coffee at National Park. The Lady in the coffee hut was friendly, she was excited as her boyfriend was coming back from Japan where he was a snowboard instructor. There is Skiing in the area but our impression was that it was pretty limited. Possibly financial problems and lack of snow? Covid took a heavy toll on NZ.

Ohakune, known as the Carrot Capital of New Zealand, served as our base for three nights. The Rocky Mountain Chalets were very pleasant and comfortable. The community seemed very welcoming. On our first day, we took a pleasant shaded riverside walk led us away from the town and helped us settle in.

The Old Coach Road



I rented a bike in town from TCB and had a brilliant mountain bike ride on the Old Coach Road. 
The bike trail traces the route used for transport before the Railway and decent roads were built. There is interesting old train infrastructure to explore and story boards explain how the line was built. A lot of the construction workers were shipped out from England, They must have found it a harsh environment. Today though, it was good fun. Massive viaducts cross deep gorges. At the end of the trail there was a coffee hut at a junk yard - perfect! I cycled back on the reverse route. It was a bit quicker this time with more descents and less photo stops so I ended up at Ohakune Railway Station with time for another coffee. Some of the folks I met on the ride were also on the platform so it was quite sociable. The railway line still connects Auckland and Wellington. I saw freight trains and a passenger train operates just three times per week in either direction. I made it back to TCB within my time slot and walked back to Rocky Mountain.

Disused Rail viaduct

An old Standard in the Junk Yard on the Old Coach Road



Journeys end - another coffee stop at the Railway Station


Mount Ruapehu from Ohakune
Honouring the Carrot Capital

At the Carrot capital

Carrot capital

TW knows an onion
Packing up at Rocky Mountain

Skiing at Ruapehu
A drive up to the ski resort was interesting, it was like being on the moon up at the top. 
We found plenty to do in Ohakune and like many other places we could easily have stayed longer.
Ruapehu Car Park - we found a parking space for our little car

Lunar Landscape

TW was intrigued by the pixies at Raetihi


Wanganui

Wanganui was our next port of call. The road, Highway 4, down was a bit too long and winding for TW but we stopped at a lovely coffee house, Behind the Door on Four, as we approached the City. Nice Bacon butty and friendly chat with the locals. Wanganui has retained a lot of its old charm. It seemed quite a homely place. We visited the other side of the river and you have to take an antiquated lift up to a plateau where they built a new community. You access the lift via long dark tunnel, a bit creepy.  I went up the War Memorial Tower. Great view over the City. All over New Zealand you see Memorials to the fallen from the two World Wars.
Up on the lift

War Memorial Tower 
Art Deco Cinema in Wanganui

TW hits the shops - after closing time 😂


Virginia Lake had a pay per view Fountain. Put a coin in the slot and it burst into life.


Pukeko or Australasian swamp hen

Anxious not to miss anything we took a run up the Coast towards New Plymouth. Our midway coffee stop was in Cafe Fika in Patea. We chatted to a Dutch couple who were also touring around. They had bought their car rather than hiring one. Food for thought? They had just come from the South Island and were missing it. Patea was another roadside town that has seen better days. It was once a thriving Port but looks a bit down in the dumps today. There was once a large business here freezing and shipping meat but that closed in the eighties. We drove down to the seaside for a look at the decaying pier and had a bit of a walk on the black sandy beach.

The Tawhiti Museum in Hawera to the north proved to be intriguing, although somewhat unusual. They have a fine collection of tractors. Oh, and included in the admission, we enjoyed a leisurely indoor boat ride. They try to liven things up by terrorising their guests and luckily for us picked on a young Dutch Lady who we think survived being shot.  Anyway it beats jet boating. The cafe was also quite good. Frank, unusually for NZ, was not too chatty.

Patea - the Harbour

The cliffs at Patea

Mt Egmont near New Plymouth

Tawhiti Museum Cafe - meet Frank - he wasn't too talkative.


A real steam roller

Everyone loves a tractor

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