New Zealand Holiday - week 1 - Santa Monica, Auckland to Russell - 27th January to 3rd February


Getting Down Under and Heading North

Leaving Home in the darkness with rain falling was not the greatest start to our expedition. Things got much worse when we hit the stationary traffic on the M3. Luckily we had left home nice and early so we were not too stressed. The plan was for me to drop TW at Terminal 3 and then take the shuttle from the car depot. There was no time for that. Check-in at Virgin was easy and friendly. We headed for the Virgin Lounge and a very decent veggie breakfast. A comfortable flight followed on a Virgin A350. We landed at LAX on time and immigration went surprisingly smoothly, apart from my confusion when trying too get my paws onto the fingerprint scanner in the correct order. The next challenge, how to get to Santa Monica?

We wanted to go via an Uber Taxi but we had no Internet access in the Terminal. Regardless, we took the Green Shuttle to the pick up point where we managed to logon and order up a taxi. It arrived in a couple of minutes. Great service and we were in Santa Monica in about 30 minutes. We were booked into the Cal Mar on California. The old place had not changed since our last visit 12 years ago! To be honest we were a bit worried about safety and security in town but we were assured it was pretty safe. With fingers crossed, and avoiding any eye contact, we bravely headed into town. Happily, nobody bothered us. We made it home with our porridge and cereal and some pasta for our evening meal. Despite the obvious and unwelcome elements it was actually quite pleasant in Santa Monica. 

3rd Street Santa Monica

Cal Mar - back to the future

Forrest with his Chocolates

The Coastal Strip

The main shopping area in Santa Monica was quite smart. The coastal strip was up-market. We made a pilgrimage to the Santa Monica Pier and dropped into Bubba Gump for a Prawn and Salmon dish, very nice. 
Everything grows
It was Street Market day and the stalls show-cased the impressive range of products that grow in California.
We had time to kill after lunch and say by the pool and chatted to another guest attending a wedding. Overall, our short stop-over went well. It was a no-brainier to call Uber to go back to LAX for our Air New Zealand flight to Auckland. The chatty driver took us via Venice and Marina Del Rey. We were again impressed and learned a lot about Los Angeles. We were really early at LAX so took advantage of the Air NZ lounge. Quite an impressive building, but the food was horrible. We were pleased to get on the flight where we found the food was much better. The service was good on the 777 but the sleeping arrangements were a bit complex. The staff have to set your bed with a very clever manoeuvre which seems to involve turning the seat upside down!  As my turn came an attractive Kiwi hostess whispered in my ear. “Would you like to go to bid”. 

27th January 2024 - Landfall in Auckland
We arrived at Auckland early in the morning, but it was already very busy. Getting into New Zealand with its strict Bio Security is a bit nerve racking, but despite our attempts to declare TW‘s beeswax ointment and my knee cream, we were sent through the fast lane into the real world. We quickly arranged our NZ phone Simms and then suffered a slow and frustrating car collection at Budget. We opted to wait for a hybrid that required cleaning rather țhan take a ready and waiting RAV4. With the gift of hindsight it was a mistake but Hey Ho. Eventually, we collected our car and headed to our initial accommodation on the North Shore at Takapuna, The Emerald Inn is just a stones throw from the beach. The owner allowed us an early check-in, which was a wonderful perk for two extremely tired Poms! We had just enough energy for a second breakfast just down the road at the Takapuna Beach Café before returning to our room for a kip. Takapuna is a pleasant town and appears to be quite affluent.

Takapuna Beach

Takapuna was a nice relaxed introduction to New Zealand. So much is like UK but with a South Pacific flavour. After our snooze we made the first of what was to become a ritual trip to the New World Supermarket  for the staples of spinach, honey and pasta and, of course, milk, eggs and bread.


Packing up at the Emerald Inn


Whangarai Quay


Lunch at the Quay

Whangarei

Whangarei 

The Whangarei Heads

Taurikura

After two nights we hit the road up to the Whangerai Heads. It's an easy run North up the Motorway. First stop Whangerai and lunch at the Quay, as recommended by Georgie, before setting out along the coast to Taurikura and our little apartment just outside the village. 

The Shores - Tarapuka


It had all the comforts of Home, including a washer and dryer. What’s not to like. We took a pleasant walk along the coast road, past the lovely wooden houses. Many of them have a rusty old tractor sitting outside to pull their boats into and out of the water. 

Taking a rest

For part of the way walked with an English Doctor and her husband and baby. She was on maternity leave from the Whangerai Hospital and was able to give us good info about the area. Our highlight was the walk to Smugglers Bay, a beautiful stroll through farmland to a deserted beach. It was a bit rocky in the water so we didn't take the plunge but otherwise it was idyllic. In the afternoon we drove along to Ocean Beach which was also very lovely but with no shade and with the sand acting like a huge radiator we could not stay for long. The Heads are, for certain, a lovely unspoiled, and pleasantly rural, coastal community. 

                                                                                        
Smugglers Bay
Taurikura

Russell and the Bay of Islands

The Church in Russell
Every pew tells a story in embroidery

After only two days it was time for us to leave and head North to Russell and the Bay of Islands. We opted to take the more direct route, which included a 5 minute cruise on the Opua ferry. The alternative would have meant a drive along a winding coastal road. A short drive from the Ferry took us to the Fantail Inn where, again, we were checked in early.

Dream House

Russell itself had not changed since our last visit. Lovely wooden houses and a relaxed ambience about the place. We drove over to Long Beach, a favoured spot on our last visit, and found a shady spot and had a dip. Our host at Fantail recommended the Boating Club just outside Russell for drinkies. We found it to be really friendly and rustic.  With its great view and keen prices we stayed on for Dinner. I selected one of my favourites, lamb shanks, and TW had a nice steak. 

Our Fantail Inn was about 10 minutes outside Russell and we were happy there. Before we visited we were a bit concerned that Cruise ship passengers might swamp the Russell and we saw a couple of Cruise Ships docked in the Bay during our visit. However, we need not have worried as fortunately the passengers mainly go to to Waitangi or play Golf.

Duke of Marlborough Hotel
The Fantail Inn


Urupukapuka here we come

On our way to Urupukapuka
High on a hill at Urupukapuka
The Otehei Cafe

Desert Island

We booked ourselves on a boat trip for the next day and it made a great start to February 2024. We took the ferry from Russell to the island of Urupukapuka. It cost $60 each and took about 30 minutes to reach the island's wharf. We shared the boat with lots of different nationalities. It was a bit of a hang onto your hat situation as the boat as the boat sped across the calm blue waters. We disembarked and took a walk through green fields up to a Highpoint with 360° view. It was a lovely sunny day so we wandered down to Urupukapuka beach for a swim and a picnic. It was such a beautiful beach backed by green lawns with the sea gently lapping on the pristine sand. There is a Cafe on the island near where the boat docks but loud music was blaring out and it was rammed full of tourists. We found a shady table outside, took in the view, and waited for our return ferry. 
Urupukapuka was definitely the highlight of our trip to Russell and the Bay of Islands.

A bit fishy at the stern of our boat

Returning to Russell

A great discovery was a beautiful boutique vineyard, the Omata Winery, located quite close to Fantail. We popped in for a drink and a wander. Our walk took us through the vines and then onto native bush down to a viewpoint above the shoreline. We bought a bottle of their Red Wine which wasn't cheap but it travelled well. It was eventually consumed several weeks later in Nelson. Harvesting the grapes at Omata is a fun task for local residents. We were told local people are invited to do the picking and it turns into bit of a party with copious quantities of food and drink.



TW at the Omata vineyard


Beer at the winery

At the going down of the sun in Russell at the Fantail

A view to the mainland from Flagstaff Hill

Long Beach - Russell

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