TW found a last minute cancellation to this 2000 Acre National Trust property. Our cottage usually takes six so it is not a cheap deal for just two people. In normal times, of course, we would have headed east for Austria but these are not normal times. The need for an expensive Covid test before we entered Austria made it inconvenient and impractical. Private Covid tests cost between £150 and £200 and there is no guarantee on how quickly you get results. To enter Austria you need the test to be carried out within the last 4 days. So the staycation made a lot of sense. Spending our money in the UK to help protect jobs was also a strong persuader. So with the car laden with our bikes and provisions we headed west on the 240 mile journey to Stackpole.
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| Crossing the Border on the Severn Bridge |
No Covid test was required but the Welsh did make us go through a sheep dip after the Severn bridge. There was a notable mprovement in the road surface after the Severn bridge but fortunately we heard no singing and the road signs were dual language. Our cottage was in a terrace of three, we were in Lavender but were flanked by Rosemary and Thyme. We did not speak to our neighbors but had long chats with the Ranger who lived in Poppy. He had been on-site throughout 'lockdown' and was certainly making up lost jaw time. He had a few stories to tell of his 38 years at the Stackpole Estate. The Estate came to the National Trust after a Lord Cawdor could not pay death duties. There is no grand house anymore, it was demolished in a fit of pique in 1963 by the then Lordship. Apparently the Estate was requisitioned by the Army in WW2 and they wrecked the house. The remaining Estate though is beautiful with a stunning coastline, woods, lakes and two superb beaches - Broadhaven South, and Barafundle.
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Barafundle Beach on our Estate
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Broadhaven South
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Broadhaven South
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The surrounding Farm was sold and is magnificent. It supports 1200 dairy cows on the most luscious grass and clover we have ever seen. After the parched lawns of Dorset the fields were quite a sight. From Lavender Cottage it took upwards of 30 minutes to walk on a variety of routes to the beach. Across the woods and through a field to Barafundle, a walk alongside a lake took us to Broadhaven.
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| TW - Lakeside Wandering at Stackpole |
Another alternative was a walk to Stackpole Quay and take a right hand turn over the cliff top to Barafundle. It was high Summer so the beaches could get busy on sunny days with trippers newly escaped from 'lockdown'. They were suppose to park at Stackpole Quay or at another Car Park at Bosherston near Broadhaven, however, in an echo of the problems we get at home, they were parking anywhere. We heard of a farmer who's entry gate was blocked by a 4 wheel drive who moved it by lifting it with a tractor to sit on top of a hedge. Note to self, don't mess with Welsh Farmers!
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| Beside the Lake beneath trees on the walk to Broadhaven |
Anyway we found the locals helpful and friendly and they were keen for us to have a good time. Tourists are quite important for the local economy. We had no problem parking as we were mainly walking or we were out on our bikes. Unfortunately we had no maps so we had to make up our rides as we went along. Our loop to Broadhaven was our first foray. We thought we were going to St Govans Head but found that the road was closed, just like our Purbecks there is a firing range and a red flag and a barrier. We had heard a lot of machine guns firing, should have suspected something.. The road is closed until 16.30 on most week days. There is a pub on the way called the St Govans Inn that was recommended to us and a popular Olde Worlde Cafe but we headed home for our food. Another pleasant ride took us via Stackpole Court to Stackpole Village and on towards Pembroke. The last stretch is a bit tricky as it is busy and undulating. Pembroke is good for a wander and we even found a free car-park, just behind the main chargeable car-park. We would have paid but in the Covid era we never have any change. If they don't have a card or phone option we are stuffed.
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| Pembroke Castle |
A very impressive Castle and some little specialty shops kept TW amused - but she was not allowed to go in! We did have a longer expedition by car, first to St. Davids, which is very nice and well kept with a lovely Cathedral which unusually sits in the valley rather than on top of a hill.
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| St. Davids Cathedral |
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| Bishops Palace St Davids |
It was quite busy and people seemed to be not that great at distancing, so we only stayed about an hour before heading to the seaside. TW likes to go down memory lane and wanted to see where she went camping at age 7. A bit of a tortuous drive down narrow but very pretty lanes to a stony but popular beach. It was our only damp day but we sat on a rock near a spot where TW's Father had built a sandcastle. Unfortunately it has been washed away but this years generation of 7 year old's was out there rebuilding.
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| Two Beach Babes heading for a sheltered spot near St Davids - have to be hardy up here |
After a picnic we headed down the winding coast roads stopping at various points to admire the views. It was quite narrow but happily there were plenty of passing places. I have an aversion to reversing, partly because my ageing neck has a resistance to rotation of more than 5 degrees but mainly because of the small rear window in the car. We do have cameras so we can see what we have hit, just after we have hit it! At Broadhaven West we headed inland to Haverford West and then home to Lavender Cottage. We spend a couple of very pleasant mornings on Barafundle beach, I could not coax TW into the icy waters, she claimed it was due to an allergy to walking on sand. Definitely a family beach, lots of digging and body boarding. Our best bike ride was along a quiet coast road via Stackpole village and Freshwater South to Manorbier.
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| TW at Manorbier - would normally have been our turnaround coffee stop |
With great views of the coast, sunshine and smooth tarmac we headed South East not really knowing where we were going and asking people for directions - sometimes the unplanned bike rides are the best. Another afternoon ride took us to Haverford West from Neyland on the Brunel trail. Brunel built a branch line to Neyland with the aim of making it a steamer port but the enterprise was not a success. Today the rails have been removed and tarmac laid to provide a very easy bike ride.
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| On the Brunel Trail |
We parked by the Marina in Neyland and then headed up to Johnstone and then onto Haverford West. In normal times we would have had coffee and cake at the 'turnaround' in Haverford West but hey-ho.
After 5 nights we were quite sad to leave the green grass of Stackpole with House-Martins flying every which way above us and a Buzzard sitting on the fence post. It really was a very pleasant refuge and ideal for our 5 day staycation.
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Brewdog after a ride
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Lavender for 6 people normally costs £603 for 5 nights peak season. We are still a bit Covid nervous so took our own towels, sheets, water and food but admit to being a bit over the top.
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