Alpe-Adria 4/4 - a bike tour from the Adriatic to the Alps - Kellerberg to Bad Hofgastein

Stage 4 Kellerberg to Bad Hofgastein - 11^th June -  83km plus the train

Kellerberg to Bad Hofgastein

Kellerberg to Mallnitz route profile

The Drau River

A typical Austrian breakfast of bread, ham and jam washed down by good strong coffee - lovely! I could understand quite a bit of my hostesses German so we had a bit of a chat over breakfast. They used to run a farm and had cows but they did not have much land and the winter feed was very expensive. So the barn next door was now empty and the cows were gone. The next generation, sleeping one floor below me last night, now had other careers. Seems a bit sad but I suppose it happens a lot.

Cafe by the Schloss Portia

Soon time to head off on again. Back on the Drau Cycle Path, just a stone’s throw away.The weather was still dull but at least it was not raining. First destination of the day was the large town of Spittal. The bike route took me straight into the centre and the lovely park by the Schloss Portia.  Sat myself down outside a Cafe in the, very temporary, warm sunshine.  Had an extremely civilised cup of coffee watching the flowers grow. The tourists around me were tucking into cakes but I, just for once, resisted the temptation. The Tourist Office was conveniently located on the other side of the Schloss so I was able to get directions out of town. 'Just head along Tiroler Strasse, you can’t miss the cycle route'. Well I did! Never mind, I soon back-tracked to a roundabout and rejoined my Drau Cycle Path. Most of the ongoing route was on quiet roads rather than segregated paths but still very enjoyable. I pedalled this way a few years ago with TW and it was still surprisingly familiar. Must have been going slowly - errhmm! Near Lendorf I had to say goodbye to the popular Drau Cycle Route as it headed off South then West towards Lienz. My route, on the other hand, was North West towards Obervellach up the Moll Valley. 

The Moll River

Obervellach in the rain

Coal black clouds were massing above so I stopped off in a Stube in Mollbrucke for another Wiener Schnitzel. I just beat the rain but several other cyclists came tumbling in a bit later, absolutely drenched. I was probably a little too smug at this point! It seemed to brighten up for a while so I left my warm, dry seat after about an hour and headed up the Moll Valley. Austrian Cycle Paths are pretty well marked and this one had arrows painted on the road so even I could not get lost. An easy to follow route and a gradual climb, nothing could go wrong, could it?

Over the worst of the climb

The rain started again, the paths were awash all the way to Obervellach. I now faced the prospect of a steep climb up to Mallnitz Railway Station in an absolutely sodden state. It took me about an hour and a quarter to cycle and walk the 9km up there in the pouring rain. The initial stretch was very steep, it got a little easier but not much. I thought about dumping some gear to reduce weight. I did empty my water bottles, I decided that if I got thirsty I could just lick the road.

Welcome to Mallnitz

I have felt drier in the shower than I did going up this hill. Anyway, I made it and after emptying my shoes of water and putting on dry clothes I headed for the Station Buffet. Another coffee and, this time a richly deserved large slice of Apple cake. I had just missed a train, they go once per hour in June, so I had a bit of time to kill. My train was actually a car transporter that goes through the Tauern Tunnel. You can take your bike in the passenger carriage. Car drivers have to leave their cars so they had to put up with me. I enjoyed the comfortable journey from Mallnitz to Bockstein, nice to have a warm dry seat with no rain dripping off my helmet. From Bockstein to Bad Hofgastein the route is very familiar territory.  Up first is a cycle path that follows along the river that runs into Bad Gastein. 

The iconic waterfall in Bad Gastein

After passing through town there is a descent to Bad Bruck and then it’s back to the river and a gradual downhill run all the way to Bad Hofgastein. The rain on the Gastein side of the Tauern seemed like mere drizzle after my earlier soaking.  Glad to be home in our little warm and dry Apartment. Happy with doing the trip in 4 days, two days quicker than planned, but would have preferred drier and warmer weather so I could have made my planned visits to Faker See and Millstater See – maybe next time? Might take the train from Spittal next time as well and avoid the long climb up to Mallnitz. Mind you, on a dry day it would have been a lot easier. Have to do the final leg of Alpe-Adria to Salzburg next year.

Alpe-Adria 3/4 - a bike tour from the Adriatic to the Alps - Resiutta to Kellerberg

Stage 3 Resiutta to Kellerberg - 10^th June - 102km

Resiutta to Kellerberg

Resiutta to Villach profile

Not a road - One of the tunnels on the cycle path

Busy Valley Looking left from an Iron bridge
The Autostrada

Looking forward to getting away from the Hotel and heading up the bike path this morning. Booked breakfast for 8am. The Restaurant was in darkness but someone surfaced after about 15 minutes so I could take breakfast and pay my bill. Then it was a walk, or was it a run, across the road to the start of the ride. No rain, a great surface with massive snails being the only obstacles. The river valley itself is quite busy with road noise from the old and new infrastructure. My bike route was superb until Chiusaforte Station where it suddenly stopped being a bike route and became a disused Railway Line again. I was a bit disappointed as I left the track and joined the road.

Looking right from an Iron bridge
The older road bridges

Chiusaforte Station - steam ready

Not too busy on the S513 on a Sunday Morning and a wide shoulder made for pleasant riding. Must say the road surfaces have been excellent and have had no problem at all with the Italian drivers. It was a riverside road with just a gentle incline so my good progress continued. There are no signs to indicate it but I knew that I could resume the bike route at Dogna. Had to ask directions in the village from a lady cleaning her car by the roadside with the radio blaring. 

Short and steep at Dogna

View over Dogna

Her shouted instruction proved accurate and I found the very steep hill up to the old rail line which had now become a bike path again, whoopee! I imagined what it must have been like puffing through some of the tunnels on an old steam train.  Better keep the windows closed. I was certainly steaming along the wonderful flat ride, possibly puffing just a little.Absolutely superb and smoke-free ride with just a couple of route aberrations through to Pontebba. Tempted to have a coffee stop but I was enjoying the cycling too much. After riding through Pontebba there was actually a signpost telling me to turn left, back onto the cycle route. To my great relief the Alpe Adria signs were now becoming more regular and reliable. 

Great Surface all the way down the line

Camporesso - an Alpine Town in Italy - the highest point.

After Pontebba

The route shadowed the Autostrada for a while but then diverged and the scenery was stunning and the going easy. The stage had climbed gradually from 400m at Resiutta to 800m altitude by the time I reached Camporesso, the highest point.

 It was now all downhill.  Tarvisio sprawls down the valley. It's obviously a ski resort but I did not really see much of it as I passed on the bike route. Obviously lots of options for cycle touring in this area in Summer.

International Junction - left for Slovenia?

Cross-country skiing area near the border

First signs of Austria

Pick your tour?

Beautiful scenery all around now. Getting very close to both Slovenia and Austria. I had my passport ready for the border but there was nobody at home as I entered Austria. The passport booths were deserted. Oh well, always nice to be in Austria. The bike path was now alongside the road as I headed downhill towards Villach. I stayed with the road rather than heading for the bike path along the River Gail as I was looking for lunch. I had forgotten how fast Austrians drive! After turning off into a couple of villages only to find their signposted hostelries were closed I settled for a popular and busy Gasthof by the main road in Hart. 

The River Gail

New language, different atmosphere. Smoking inside is not banned in Austria but pubs, over a certain, size, must have a non-smoking area. After a bit of debate with the waitress who wanted me to sit in a smoking area I joined the family groups eating Sunday lunch in the Restaurant. I probably wasn’t dressed for it but I certainly qualified in terms of appetite and this would be my first proper sit down lunch since the UK. The smoky front section of the Gasthof was like a public bar, very noisy with lots of banter, argument and discussion in German. I was happy to be in my sedate area, studying my map.

The Gail Cycle path

My Sunday lunch comprised of an enormous salad and a beer; just delightful. Back to the bike and a windy and slightly damp ride along the Gail River cycle path towards Villach. The surface was a bit loose but it was amongst the trees, flat and easy to follow. Approaching Villach I saw a sign for the River Drau cycle path. This took me away from the Gail and through the City. Looked a nice place, lots of trees and bike lanes. Very quiet on a Sunday. Nothing could go wrong could it? Well it did! I joined the River Drau and pedalled along the cycle path. Unfortunately the path was blocked due to bridge construction up ahead and there was a diversion which I must have misunderstood. 

Crossing the Drau - my mistake!

Anyway, I ended up on the left bank of the river and the path petered out. I found myself on what seemed like a Motorway slip road. A harrowing ride on the edge followed until I could rejoin the path, or rather it rejoined me. At the next river crossing the Drau Cycle Path shifted to my left bank and an infinitely more relaxing ride came my way. 

Zimmer Frei at Kellerberg

Very nice to finish the days ride on a high, pedalling along the Drau riverside. Had the weather been better I would have pushed on to Millstater See but it was trying to rain and it was time for a night stop. I found a Bed & Breakfast in the small village of Kellerberg near Weissenstein.  A very nice elderly Lady ran the place and she showed me to the 3^rd floor of the family house. It would normally mean a shared bathroom but nobody else was staying. No queue for the shower then! Good value at 25 Euros. Wandered up a steep hill to the local Hotel for a Wiener Schnitzel; normally the cheapest 'substantial' item on an Austrian Menu. Watched the football, Euro 2012, on a big telly in a comfortable Restaurant area.. Good food and entertainment. The other guests looked to be all Hotel residents but I did not feel out of place. When the football finished a Lady at the next table asked for the channel to be changed so that she could watch the start of the Canadian Grand Prix. How convenient, forgot that was on today.

The River Drau

Seems a bit strange that you can pedal so easily across a border into a new country with a different language, culture and cuisine. It all happened so quickly, just like being on an Autostrada, or was it an Autobahn?
Italy itself changes so quickly over such a short distance, amazing to think of the variations you would experience if heading, say, from Sicily.

Alpe-Adria 2/4 - a bike tour from the Adriatic to the Alps - Udine to Resiutta

Stage 2 Udine to Resiutta - 9^th July - 60km

Udine to Resiutta

Udine to Resiutta profile - not too steep

Another day, another Breakfast Buffet. This was a really good spread and despite my best efforts I made little impact upon the piles of food available. Bit of rain, unfortunately, so once I had raised the bike from the cellar, I gingerly pedalled over the cobbles. Don’t think I would make a Classics racer somehow. Getting out of cities is not my strong point but I managed to get to the outskirts of Udine without any problems.

The cycle paths were fine but unfortunately I ended up in an out of town shopping area with multiple roundabouts, bit like a UK new town. I had gone too far west. I could have turned back to follow the valley but would probably have ended up on the Autostrada or back in Udine. Decided to head for the hills and took a route through Martignacco and Moruzzo towards Colloredo di Monte Albano.
Is this the way to Colloredo? Had to ask the way a couple of times so it’s worth choosing a destination that

This must be the way to Coloredo

is pronounceable, I managed not to say Amarillo. There were a couple of pretty steep inclines but it was a lovely route through the countryside, I kidded myself that it was worth the effort. Why stay in the valley with its traffic and urban sprawl when there are vineyards and fields of corn to pedal past. Colloredo had a cake shop so had to stop for elevenses.

Elevenses in a small Italian Cafe in Coloredo

The place was very new and absolutely pristine. My chosen morning snack was foccato, bit of a cross between a pizza and an omelette. While it was being heated I watched the comings and goings. A Lady from the Hairdressers next door tried to mount the steps in her Fiat as she tried to park. Managed to stop her before she ended up inside and no damage was done. They wanted to know where I was from, where I was going and I was given more route advice. ‘It's Saturday, it will be quiet, take the main road’ was the general consensus. The place was so nice I asked if I could take a picture. I also said how much I had enjoyed the focatto and the Lady GAVE me another. Altogether a brilliant Italian interlude on my route North. Pedalled away and joined the main road to Buja where I turned off on a quiet road to take me towards Gemona. By now it was raining heavily. At a junction I spotted the Holux finding Dutch couple again. We all stopped at a Cafe and I bought them a Cappuccino  They have an Apartment House near Spitall in Carinthia and were on their way home from a tour in Slovenia. As soon as there was a break in the rain they were off and I followed soon after. My destination was Venzone and I took the main road. It had a shoulder to cycle on so was not too bad.

Before the Earthquake struck in 1976

After the Earthquake in 1976

Venzone

The perfect streets of Venzone

Venzone was destroyed by an earthquake in 1976 but has been faithfully restored. It possibly looks a bit too perfect but they have done a great job. I had a good look round in the drizzle before heading for the Tourist Office. It was too early to stop for the night so they gave me options for my next overnight. The very helpful chap printed off a list of Hotels in the Area. One of the two Hotels in Resiutta seemed to be the most logical choice and I was advised to take the main road. Resiutta is the start of the former railway Line, now bicycle track, that leads to Austria. The road to Resiutta followed a wide river valley, one of those that are more gravel than water.

Down by the River Fella

Quite a gradual incline so it was easy cycling at a good speed and the rain was warm! I celebrated my arrival with a big slice of Strudel in the Cafe in town. Not a very exciting town have to say. I imagine that with the building of the parallel Autostrada and the closing of the Railway it lost a lot of business. It was also badly damaged by the 1976 Earthquake. My Hotel was down by the main road. It had seen better days. The owner was welcoming, particularly to my bike. Bring it inside, your room is upstairs. 40 Euros per night. Bit disconcerted by the African decorators painting the corridor outside my room but my room was clean. Had a doze and dried out. Lots of jabbering from the corridor outside kept me from going into a deeper slumber. A break in the rain allowed a bit of a wander and I discovered a very pleasant area as I walked away from the main road. Rushing streams and pools. I imagine it’s a good place for a paddle on a hot day.

Chicken Dinner

Back at the main road there was a very popular restaurant specialising in chicken so my evening meal was half a chicken with chips and a salad. It was bit of a transport cafe but the food was good and the price keen. Plenty of comings and goings so good for people watching. And so to bed, thankfully the corridor was now quiet. Nice coat of fresh emulsion though. With the benefit of hindsight I would probably have stayed at Moggio Udinese on the North side of the River and then joined the cycle path further along. Paid the penalty for not buying and carrying some detailed maps I suppose.

Resiutta

Away from the main valley in Resiutta

Mountain Stream near Resiutta

Alpe-Adria 1/4 - a bike tour from the Adriatic to the Alps - Grado to Udine

Stage 1 Grado Pineta to Udine - 8^th June

In the pink until I dropped my Holux - not painful!

Grado Beach Area - yours for the day for 2 Euros

Grado - smart and well cared for resort

After a good night’s sleep I was awoken by a dawn chorus of smokers coughs echoing through the hotel. My dining room companions from last night were clearly coming alive. Down to the restaurant for a repeat of last night’s procedure, this time with the expansive breakfast buffet.  Another very good demolition job, even if I say so myself. Another receptionist at check-out and another friendly face. I used the expression, 'what's the damage' when asking for my bill so we had a bit of a laugh over colloquial expressions. There was no damage honestly!

Time to fill the bidons, load up and head along the coast towards Grado.  Had a good first impression of Grado, even more umbrellas and a much tidier beach.  

Umbrellas on holiday

Grado is where the Alpe-Adria cycle trail (ciclovia Alpe Adria) is supposed to start, or finish.  Alpe-Adria is a European Union funded cycle route that stretches from Salzburg to Grado. It conveniently passes through Bad Hofgastein, my destination. I was alerted to it by a tunnel drilled solely for cyclists alongside the main road in the Gastein Valley.

On the prom at Grado

One of the fleet with my bridge behind

Docked in Grado

Zooming in on the Adriatic

The weather forecast was dismal with rain forecast for several days, today being the only fine day. I needed to make it count. The Grado tourist office, located next to the main beach entrance, was extremely helpful and loaded me up with maps and brochures for the area and my route. A few too many for a cyclist to be honest so I headed for the promenade and a comfy seat to read and filter out any surplus. Cycle routes going East through nature reserves might be of interest if I was staying in the area but my immediate destination was North towards Udine. By the way, it costs 2 Euros to enter the beach area so I sat on the prom near a breakwater. Really lovely sitting in the early morning sun by the Adriatic but I wanted to make the most of the day. I had to choose between sitting on the beach or cycling along in the sunshine with warm air and a tail wind. Cycling won easily but not before a wander along the prom and a quick pedal around town. Lots of one way streets and an olde-worlde historic centre.  It’s also quite a significant fishing port with many boats sporting a scraper thingy for picking up shellfish.

Ponte Figariola

Anyway, the route North beckoned so I tore myself away and swung over a narrow bridge to where the cycle route starts. The 5km Ponte Figariola, stretching across the lagoon, was a great start to the ride.  It was all just a bit too perfect, a dedicated cycle path with a good surface, a following wind, sun on the back and pancake flat. First town was Aquileia with Roman ruins and a Basilica with, according to the brochures I had read on the seafront, stunning mosaics on its floor. I guiltily cycled on past, maybe next time.

The Basilica at Aquileia

Cycle route at Aquileia

Roman Ruins at Aquileia

 On through Cervignano to Muscoli where I spotted the first sign for the Alpe Adria route and just had to take a photo. Have to say I expected to see signs all the way. It was also at this point that I dropped my Holux tracking device although I did not realise it until later and when I was about 10km to the 

First sign

North. Where it fell was actually the only section of rough terrain. Up to that point, and afterwards, the road and cycling path surfaces were excellent. It was only a short stretch of gravel and grass, about 200m, but it cost me a lot of time and energy. Once I noticed it was missing, I turned South into the wind to try to retrieve it. A guy operating a strimmer alongside the road saw me pass three times, he only flicked a stone at me on my third pass! My search proved fruitless and it was only later, when I was in the Udine Tourist Office, that we were reunited. 
A cycling Dutch couple had spotted it, picked it up and I was standing alongside them when they tried to hand it in. Very fluky!

Palmanova - the central Piazza Grande - its definitely not a square

Palmanova - see the Piazza Grande in the centre

One of the entry gates - abt. 10 O'clock on the aerial view

Anyway, after the temporary loss, and the foray South, the mood was broken. Direction signs disappeared and I took a wrong turn so the short hop to Palmanova became a bit arduous. All a bit frustrating, to put it politely! At least Palmanova was interesting when I eventually cycled through. It has a city wall shaped like a nine pointed star. I sat in the main square and ate my biscuits. I couldn’t see any cake shops open so that was my lunch for the day. It was not easy to find the cycle route out of town so I opted to ignore the ciclovia and go on quiet roads towards Udine. I may not have chosen the shortest route but I arrived in Udine without any further frustrations and can boast that I have been to Tissano and Lumignacco.

Udine - street market

Udine is a fair size town with a historic centre, we passed through on the bus from Venice last year. I headed for the Tourist Office using the City map given to me in Grado, had a bit of a wait because the Lady in front of me kept asking yet another question and another...

On the cobbles in Udine

Uphill for the first time

Views over Udine

Udine

The staff were very patient and, have to say, the Tourist Office customer service was excellent again. They took account of me being on a bike and booked a Hotel with storage space, they also gave me a small map with a marked up route. Oh, and of course I met the Dutch couple and was reunited with my Holux. The Hotel Cristallo was 58 Euros B&B and was conveniently located just outside the historic centre. The bike went in the subterranean garage and I had a very comfortable room on the second floor. After a good soak I headed out, desperate to find food. 

My Trattoria

Skinny street in Udine

The hotel receptionist recommended a couple of local Trattoria. I chose the Ai Vecchi Parrocchiani in Via Aquileia. It was pretty earIy so I asked the guy at the bar (who turned out to be the owner) if they were serving food yet - no not yet, I'm the Chef so give me 15 minutes.  Fair enough, small beer please.  True to his word, the food service started in about a quarter of an hour with arrival of a hand written menu. I did not understand a single word but they translated for me with a mixture of hand signals and English words.  Apparently all were local specialities. I chose a bean soup followed by squid with peas and a carafe of wine. The wine was on draught from a beer pump! I thoroughly enjoyed my meal although I was so hungry any fussiness was out of the window.  It was a football pub, I had heard of the local team, Udinese of course, and the waiter delighted in telling me they had beaten Tottenham  2 – nil about five years ago. He also said our supporters were very good. Apparently Celtic had visited recently and their voracious appetite for drink presented a few challenges. Extremely friendly place, people were popping in, having a quick drink and then moving on, some were going to the room at the back to watch the Euros. Many had an opinion on my route tomorrow to Venzone. Anyway, after my Espresso  I paid my 20 Euro bill, managed a ‘grazie mille’ and headed off for a tour of the city. 

Up at the castle

An International food market filled the local cobbled streets with stalls displaying everything from Irish Beer to Austrian Strudel. 

Heading home

It was a great night for wandering among the Friday night crowds along the Via Vittoria Veneto, not as posh as his street in Rome but still lovely, and the Via Aquileia. The locals were ignoring the drizzle so I did as well. When in Udine... Found some very impressive old buildings. I like the way Italians name their streets and squares. Piazza Patriacarto, Piazza Del Duomo and Piazza Primo Maggio were on my tour. Found the first hill of the trip and walked up to the castle, great views from up there but I could see tomorrow’s mountains looming up so I scuttled back down the cobbled steps to the bustling streets and onwards to my comfy Hotel. I like Udine, there is plenty of history to see and the people are friendly. Clearly there is much to see in Italy away from the main Tourist centres like Florence. I could have easily spent much more time in Grado, Aquileia, Palmanova and Udine. Overall a brilliant day, must make sure I fit my Holux on its mount properly tomorrow though!