Bordeaux to Nimes on a bicycle Day 7 to Carcassonne

Castelnaudary to Carcassonne - 44 km

The canal basin at Castelnaudary

Spot the hat

 We bumped our way to Carcassonne. Had to focus on the track ahead to avoid tree roots. Took a few hits though – ouch! A mountain bike would be a much more comfortable experience on the Canal du Midi. The canal itself seems to be getting progressively busier with boats jostling at the locks as we moved south, back into grape country.

After a failed inner tube on Stephens’s bike, probably a compression puncture or snake bite, and some leisurely lock watching we still reached the tourist magnet of Carcassonne in time for some lunch. We had to leave the canal shortly before town and take to the road but soon arrived at the Gare and found the necessary Patisserie in the ‘new town’.

We sat in a square and watched the people go by, an admirable past-time on a sunny early Autumn afternoon. The Youth Hostel was located inside the old Citadel so I headed there whilst Les Ecossaise headed for their pre-booked accommodation.

The Musketeers arrive at Carcassonne

Their plan of flying into Carcassonne on RyanAir and then hiring bikes has a lot going for it.

It’s quite straightforward to take the train up to Toulouse or Bordeaux or, alternatively, to come back from Montpellier or Narbonne with the bikes. Not all trains have a bike compartment though. Their hire bikes were not that great and, I suppose at the end of the season, the tubes and tyres can be the worse for wear. It costs about 50 Euros a week to hire a basic bike.

Bringing a bike on RyanAir costs 40 Euros each way. However the Hand luggage allowance is only 10kg so if you can ship your checked baggage in the bike bag you can offset the 15 or 20 Euro each way cost of baggage. Of course, you get the additional hassle of taking the bike apart and putting it back together again a couple of times.

Anyway, I headed for the Citadel, over the draw-bridge and up the hill. I checked in, cost about 20 Euros including breakfast, and set out to tour the ramparts.

And how did Carcassonne get its name?

Charlemagne had the place under siege for about 5 years when Princess Carcas who was the boss lady had the idea of stuffing a pig full of grain and throwing it over the ramparts. When it hit the ground it burst, spreading grain everywhere. Charlemagne and his attackers thinking that, if they can waste all that food they must have plenty left, gave up and lifted the siege. Seeing them leaving, Carcas rang the bells.
‘Carcas sonne’ (carcas rings). Don’t think the legend ‘rings true’ somehow, what parent is going to call their daughter Carcas?

Today, there is no shortage of food within the old city walls, there are literally dozens of restaurants and during the day the place is besieged by tour buses. I think Princess Carcas would have done a runner with the pig in close pursuit. Staying within the walls at least meant I could have a look around after the tourists had headed for their hotels and before they rolled up in the morning.

Had an au revoir meal with the Musketeers in the citadel. I was on the ramparts when I spotted them walking up from the new town. My youth hostel was in a great location, a short-walk to the restaurant and a short hop to bed. This was the cause of some comments from my weary compatriots who had a long walk back home. They had been good company for the past few days and I was sure they would make it as it was partly downhill.

Over the rooftops of Carcasssonne

My convenient hostel was not as convivial as expected, none of the usual travelling banter. The place had wi-fi (pronounced wee-fee) so people had their noses in Notebooks most of the time, that’s progress I suppose. Never mind, it was very good value and clean.