May 2010 - Southern England Cycle Tour
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| Bournemouth West Beach |
Day One Bournemouth to Beer, about 80 miles
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| On the Ferry to Studland |
Leaving Bournemouth for Beer sounds a bit of a contradiction now that Bournemouth is famed as a party town - but that was the plan. On the road at 07:00 sped down to the Prom and off to the Sandbanks Ferry. Lovely cold but sunny morning, only had to share tarmac with a few joggers on the coastal path. Just made the chain-link ferry, they saw me coming and held the gates open, good omen for the day. Nice 90p cruise across the mouth of Poole Harbour and then on the road to Corfe Castle. Could not cut across the heath today as was on Rossinante, my touring bike. Not an original name for a bike but as it was good enough for Don Quixote’s donkey then it is certainly appropriate enough for my bike.
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| Near Corfe - gorse and castle |
My route today was based upon a section of National Bike Route 2 that wends its way from Dover to Exeter - and more - on quiet country roads. The easiest part of the route was a lovely flat stretch to Dorchester from Corfe. Hardly any traffic and, from Wool, I had the company of a 75 year old guy, also called Bob, who was riding a tandem with nobody on the back. Apparently he was off cycling in the Czech Republic so his standard bike was packed up to travel! Anyway we kept up a decent pace past the various Piddles and Puddles in the area. On my own again from Dorchester, headed down the Weymouth Rd and then across farm tracks towards Hardy’s Monument. Why a stone chimney on top of a hill was chosen as Hardy’s memorial beats me, maybe he was a heavy smoker? To be honest I thought this was Thomas Hardy's memorial but in fact its the memorial to 'kiss me Hardy' the Captain of HMS Victory at Trafalgar. Anyway the views of Chesil Beach and Portland were impressive. Only two years to the Olympics. Did not enjoy the climb up very much though. Beautiful undulating countryside followed, then lunch in The Crown Inn at Uploders, nice but a bit pricey for Ham, Egg and Chips. Happily refreshed, headed onwards passing just north of Bridport. Just before Axminster the hills really started to hurt – aaagh! Hit the coast at Seaton for the first time since Bournemouth then climbed up and over the hill to Beer.
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| Hardy Monument |
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| Chesil Beach and Portland |
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| Beer |
Arrived at Beer YHA at 16:45. First time in a Youth Hostel for many years but the price was right at around £14 for the night. Beer is a nice wee fishing village, plenty of pubs and b&b’s.
Shared a dormitory with 3 others, two Dutch horticultural teachers and an ambulanceman. Bit of a snore fest so sleep was not perfect but you pays your money..... Had Pasta and a pint of Guinness for dinner.
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| Beached at Beer |
Day 2 Beer to Bellever, about 50 miles
A full cooked breakfast in the morning, which included Black Pudding set me up nicely for Day 2.
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| Devon |
Set out on the road at 9am. The YH is directly on National Route 2 and there is an immediate steep uphill climb to get the blood moving then it’s down via Branscombe to Sidmouth or more appropriately 'Wrinkleys on Sea'. There’s a mega-steep hill out of Sidmouth which was not a lot of fun and then it was on to Exmouth for the ferry across the Exe Estuary to Starcross. Exmouth looked fairly prosperous. Enjoyed my cruise, at £4:50 plus a quid for the bike. Bit tricky on the steps up to the Starcross Pier and then there’s another footbridge over the railway line at Starcross Station to negotiate. Headed down the coast to Dawlish and then struck inland towards Ashcombe, Chudleigh and Bovey Tracey.
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| Starcross Ferry |
There is no cycle route over Dartmoor so had to keep an eye on the map. Found a nice late-lunch stop at the Brookside Tearooms at Bovey Tracey. Sausage, Egg and Chips and a beer was my selection. The sausages were absolutely enormous and were just what I needed as was definitely running on empty. Not sure if I was tired, hungry or thirsty but after resting, eating and drinking I was sort of ready to head up to Haytor. Sort of because it is helluva hill and because its quite a busy road could not zig-zag up. Had to walk some of the way as I left the woods and fields behind me and headed for the open moorland. Stunning scenery, didn’t even mind the headwind as it seemed to match the territory.
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| Downhill to Widecombe |
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| Dartmoor view |
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| Tor - ture, not really |
It was a steep downhill into Widecombe which looked a smart little place. Then it was onto the hilly back-roads past farms to get to Bellever. The sign-posting was limited and the map not too detailed so was a bit paranoid about going the wrong way and having to pedal back uphill again. Quite a relief when I saw the Bellever sign and the next YH. It’s in lovely location near a stream. Had a good dinner of ham egg and chips again! Then in the morning a nice cooked breakfast. In between had a decent nights sleep in a dormitory that takes eight but only had one other occupant, a Botanist touring Southwest Gardens. Quite a mix of people in the hostel. A Kiwi who had just come from Canada driving Husky teams, another retired guy who spent his winter in Central America, another retired guy off to Bangladesh for a year. Oh, and a German couple on holiday. So a mix of ages and interests.
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| Bellever - reflections at dusk |
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| Dartmoor Ponies |
Day 3 Bellever to Bodmin, about 50 miles
Rainy day! Headed off about 9:45 into low cloud and rain. Headed for Two Bridges and Tavistock. Still undulating hills. Tavistock looked interesting, an old market Town still retaining lots of traditional shops, bakers and butchers etc.. Made up the route as I went along which included going up onto Bodmin Moor. Horsebridge, Bray Shop, Rilla Mill, Minions, St Neot and Mount were all en route. Lunch was pretty ordinary in a pub in Rilla Mill. Imagine tucking into warmed up Steak and Kidney pie with reheated Roast Potatoes but it was a comfy chair and warm and dry. No egg and chips on the menu! Bit of grey day really, very eery cycling though the mist on Bodmin Moor. At least I couldn't see the beast! Very glad to get close to Bodmin and downhill running. Met TW and TMIL at a Hotel between Bodmin and Wadebridge. Ready for a shower and dry clothes. Had a nice steak dinner and was glad to hit the sack. Haven’t stayed in a UK hotel for a while and watching the other tables it all seemed a bit strange. All that 'tasting the wine snobbery' and phony customer service. Nice hot shower and comfy bed though.
Day 4 Bodmin to Carbis Bay, about 80 miles
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| Camel Trail |
Left the Hotel at 10:15 after another cooked breakfast. Really lovely local honey on my toast. Bit of a honey addict, please save the bees!
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| Mooing in the wind |
Decided to go into Wadebridge and join the Camel Trail to Padstow and follow National Route 32 down to Truro and then the National Route 3 to Hayle. Probably would have been easier to head straight down the coast but never mind. It seemed to take ages to get any distance from Wadebridge. It would have taken a fraction of the time if I had taken the A39, that’s if I hadn’t ended up as road kill!. Anyway it was nice farming country. Managed to skirt around Newquay and rejoin NR32. Had a really nice lunch in a pub in St. Newlyn East. Ham Egg and Chips ‘again’ for a fiver. The Pheasant Inn was extremely pleasant. Then it was up and down to Truro. Got lost in Truro! Eventually found NR 3 near Bissoe. Lots of people were cycling around Bissoe. There is a coast to coast ride that goes through there. Then plain sailing, or cycling, now for miles through the old mine workings.
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| Mine route |
Then it was onwards to Redruth and Camborne. The route through Redruth was interesting as it cut through lots of nice residential streets with smart terraced houses. Got lost again in Camborne, had a nice tour of the town though. Eventually found NR3 again, such a relief to see those little blue signs. Left NR 3 at Hayle and carried on uphill through Lelant to Carbis Bay where TW, and a nice cold beer, was waiting for me at a lovely appartment overlooking the beach.
Oh, and then the very welcome shower and Savlon. Think I will get a new saddle!
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| Carbis Bay |
Quite a tough little tour, the hills were hard. It would probably have been better to do shorter daily legs and savour the sights a bit more. Would be quite happy spending more time at Bellever. Thought Dartmoor was just lovely.
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