14.7.10

Post Card from Cornwall - St Ives

Coastal caper - Zennor to St. Ives
A much favoured walk is along the coastal path from Zennor to St Ives.
TBIL had a spare room in a Lodge they hired at the Tregenna in St Ives so we jumped in the car. This day started with a swim in the pool at the hotel then breakfast followed by a game of tennis. We then caught the bus to Zennor.
Then the hard bit, the up and down walk on the coastal path. TW gave me a gadget for my birthday that enables me to track the route and download it to a computer. I can then impose the route onto Google Earth and she can check where I've been which is a bit of a worry. There were no pubs on this route so I was pretty safe.
See the seals!
Didn't see any seals this time unfortunately but it was a lovely walk with stunning views of the coastline. Not busy, even in high summer.



The blooming heather
You can take a boat from the harbour and go see the seals, not my cup of tea!







They manage the coastline here.  We met a guy who's job it is to wander the coast and monitor the bracken. If the bracken gets too high, and hides the heather, they send in the cows. Great job, for him and the cows

Towards Porthmeor
In the distance is Porthmeor Beach, where the surfies hang out. A good rest and recovery stop is the Tate Gallery Cafe. You don't have to visit the Gallery, not everyones cup of tea, or pay entry. Just take the stairs to the top of the building and you are rewarded with great views over the bay and a decent beverage. Played croquet after dinner.

Eating Out - no cooking!

Someone is happy. After 3 weeks of self catering we stopped overnight on the way home and just had to go for a meal out in Alencon. L'Escargot Dore. Set meal for 23 Euros.

France - cycling on the Atlanic Coast

Tour de Pines

There is a massive pine forest to the west of Bordeaux..
Originally it was a mosquito infested swamp but back in history some enlightened soul had it drained and planted with pine trees. And just so I could go cycling in the shade on forestry roads and cycle paths. Warm air, the smell of pines, plenty of beaches to stop at, it just can’t be beaten.
Across to Arcachon
Andernos - across the bay from Arcachon. Nice restaurants in Andernos les Bains. Chez Elliette for seafood at the Oyster Port, bit out of budget this year.
L'Entre pots in Avenue Pasteur is great for a set lunch. Very French and inexpensive.
On the beach

 
The seaside - miles of empty beaches, off-season anyway!  
 
Take a Hat and water!
Looking North for 160km
Sunset over the Atlantic

France - Atlantic Coast - Good neighbours



Now, being creatures of habit we just had to move south down the Atlantic Coast to the Pine Trees and long deserted beaches of Aquitane.

3 weeks in a self-catering wood cabin beckoned. Actually it was a semi-detached cabin. Our neighbours, from North Germany had the bulk of the property. We were the poor relations next door living in one room with a sink whereas they had three rooms and a full kitchen with a Dishwasher. They threw us the occasional sausage so we did OK. Their terrace always looked terribly tidy and pristine. They even brought a table decoration for their patio. Ours, on the other hand, was a scene of disarray with beach umbrellas, kites, bikes, sea shells, tennis rackets and a few empties.

Apart from that we believe we were decent neighbours although, because we had no oven, we took an electric wok and used it on the terrace. Happily the smoke really wasn’t too bad and the fish was fresh and only just cremated. Fortunately they were fit enough to gather their gear quickly and move inside so there was no damage to international relations.
Anyway we got on alright and they lent me their body board although, apparently, I was not very good at it and missed a few waves.

They were also masters of checking out. They obviously got everything ready the day before, put the bikes on the car ready for a timely departure. For Les GeeBees next door it was a bit different. We just made the midday deadline with all detritus being thrown in the back of the car at the last minute. Still haven’t found the iPod charger.

We played quite a bit of Petanque in the evenings. A very serious game, especially if you are Belgian. For some reason they took it ever so seriously. No such thing as a ‘gimme‘ for them so wouldn’t want to play them at golf. The object is to get your boules as close to the cochenet (little pig) as possible. The Belgians came equipped with tape measures to verify the distance whereas the French would just shrug and say theirs was closest anyway. Unfortunately I could never tell which boule was mine so was unable to dispute ‘le mesure’. All boules look the same to me! They don’t have different colours like beach boule. Could never remember the score either, or even when it was my throw. Must be something in the wine? Nevertheless it was fun. ‘oh well played sir’ bien jouez monsieur (or madame). TW was ace as a roller. We were always given the rolling role in the team where you try to get your boule as close as possible to the piglet. The natives took the fun role doing the ‘tirez’ where they cast the boule into the air in the hope that it will land on the opponents spherical and send it into oblivion. They invariably missed but it looked impressive, difficult and dangerous so local honour was satisfied.

I learned to swim here last year so it was nice to get back in the same pool and find I could do plenty of lengths instead of a gasping to fall short of doing even one.

13.7.10

Carnac and the Quiberon Penninsula and Le Foot


Well, the World Cup started with a whimper over here. A poor performance against Uruguay left our French neighbours a little glum.
Watching Le Foot
Things did not look up after a French player strike after a particular striker questioned the parentage of the French coach. So our plans to follow the World Cup in France at various jolly venues were dashed. England deserved their early exit but being thrashed by Germany when watching in a cafe with 90% German supporters was a bit tough to swallow even after a few Kronenbergs. Players that would happily walk into any Fantasy League team were pretty hopeless. Rooney, Torres, Lampard etc. Only some Spanish and German players and Premier League failures like Forlan, The Prince and Dos Santos seem to come away with any credit.

Anyway, we dodged the rain showers in South Brittany for a week and had a great time on the bikes and walking the superb beaches. This is a lovely part of France and well worth a stop.

Carnac is Karnag in the local lingo so gives a great photo opportunity.

Not that I'm suggesting ... errhmm!

11.6.10

Driving in France - keeping on the right side

The obvious challenge when you bring a car over here is the need to drive on the wrong side of the road. I've done it quite a bit but it is still tricky in the towns and villages. Circling roundabouts the wrong way and looking left instead of right, or is it right instead of left?

Tips for driving in France

1. Equipment
You don't have to wear the hi-vis waistcoats all the time even though the AA say they are compulsory. No one else does!  If you are a little uncertain when out walking in towns they are, however, a very useful accessory. Carrying a warning triangle is also a bit of a chore but we are Good Samaritans so when erected in Restaurants they do help to warn other diners of low ceilings or a tricky step. The spare bulb kits are also most useful but take the screw type and not the bayonet. Check before you travel on the types of bulbs in your hotel or apartment. Take Wellies.

2. Forget the indicators
Not necessary in France, sign of weakness and indecision.
Hand signals are quite common I've noticed.

3. Lose the GB plate
French drivers grow horns when they see a Gee Bee. Zey must pass!

4. Bring a co-driver
Make sure you have a co-driver for the Motorway toll booths. They should ideally be very rich and awake. A comatose co-driver makes paying the toll very tricky as the card slot is always on our passenger side. And a half awake passenger who attempts to put the credit card in upside down, back to front and sideways and so causes a massive queue can damage Anglo-French relations - please note TW!
I would also strongly suggest NOT reversing into the toll booth area. Though it means you are on the right side the French don't like it for some reason.
Oh and put your wellies on at the Motorway loo stops, sandals are not appropriate for stand-up toilets.

5. Use a bicycle whenever possible.
Its the National Sport over here so they give you loads of room, there are some lovely bike routes and it gives you a chance to practice your French - Bonjour!

7.6.10

France - Channel Hopping - Mont St. Michel

Mont St. Michel
Managed to get TW up early for trip through the tunnel. The M25 is great at 5 in the morning but not TW. Anyway, we arrived early so the nice people at Eurotunnel put us on an earlier train. Perfect ride through, didn't see any fishes, and time to put the GB sticker on and have some breakfast. Headed off down the Normandy coast. Stopped in Trouville for a lunchtime baguette by the sea.
Trouville hasn't changed much since I was last here in 1975 on a bike trip. Its posher neighbour, Deauville, still looked as smart as I remember.
Pushed on towards Mont St Michel. I had booked us into a Formule 1 motel but TW had a funny tummy and she did not like the  idea of walking down the corridor for the WC and shower. So my 60th birthday next morning was celebrated in the relative luxury of an Ibis Hotel. TW brought along some cards and presents so that was fun. After a good breakfast we headed for Mont St Michel. Managed to beat the crowds for a quick tour of the ramparts.
Its a good deal bigger than our St. Michaels Mount in Cornwall but then size is not everything. It is lovely and quite atmospheric on a June morning with the mist rolling in over the estuary. The tide was out but we did not go for a walk on the mud. Apparently the incoming tide can outrun a galloping horse so not the place for a couple of channel hoppers to take an early morning stroll. There are hotels and restaurants on 'Le Mont' as well as the Abbey. It would be a neat place to stay if finances allowed. So, our touristing done for the day, we headed for Carnac on the South Coast of Brittany. Checked into our Apartment and headed for the Plage for a snooze. TW bought me nice meal in the evening. Its not so tough being 60 so far.........