Marlow - driving home for Christmas

Making our way back

Christmas and New Year bring a temporary halt to Ski 'operations'. We do not drive all the way home of course. Our transport of choice could be classed as 'many and varied'. The day starts with the usual panicked departure from the Apartment. Our paying New Year guests will expect the place to be tidy and not littered with the debris created by our 17 day ski trip. Everything has to be Austria clean before we make for the bus, and the bus leaves just after 8am!
Once out of the door its a 5 minute walk to the Bus Stop. Wolfgang was our driver for the 15 minute ride through town to the Train Station. After mutual wishing of 'Frohe Weihnachten' and Happy New Year we were last in the queue for the ticket machine. There is something about ticket machines that put people into a state of pure panic and confusion. Perhaps its the fact that people know there is a queue of punters behind them and that a train is due any moment. It is not really a difficult machine to operate but most of our fellow travellers definitely struggled. One older lady clearly could not see the touch screen and was prodding the plastic in all the wrong places. Another poor soul could not work out why their ticket was not printing despite the fact that he had not put his money in. Of course a 'yoof' with headphones had no problem at all. They have no experience of buying from grumpy ticket office personnel, pushing buttons and hitting keys is what they have always done. We have done it before as well and managed to get our tickets, we even put our credit card in the correct slot and the right way up which is a first for us.
Tickets in hand we had time to walk to where the front of the 08:30 train was about to stop. We sat in one of the old fashioned compartments for 6 people. TW was still coughing so insisted we use our cases to block the doorway and stop anyone from joining us. Cue the arrival of the coffee trolley and a nice fresh cuppa. TW's luggage barrier worked until Bishopshofen where a pleasant Austrian chap forced his way in. He was off to Linz to spend Xmas with his family and we had a nice chat about ski jumping and his holiday in the UK. On arrival in Salzburg, TW, our  skiing diva, announced she would like to go shopping. We had plenty of time so off we toddled to the nearby Hervis Ski Shop where Father Christmas provided a very smart new jacket, eventually!
Next stop the Trolley Bus to the airport. This normally takes about 15 or 20 minutes but today the surrounding Autobahn was shut due to an accident and all the traffic was fighting its way along our route. This bus ride is usually the least favourite part of the trip but today was worse than ever. Our Lady driver was not happy at all and made ample use of the horn on the poor divertees. It took nearly an hour so we were doubly glad we had taken an early train. With the airport quiet and no queues for security we still had time for lunch at the Airport Bistro. This is a regular haunt on our trips home. TW always has Toast Amadeus, a musically themed Ham and Cheese Toastie with salad. I have a chicken salad and a final Austrian Beer purely on the grounds it would be discourteous not to.
We survived the intense scrutiny of Airport Security and arrived Belt-less and Boot-less in the Departure Lounge. I thought I might be stopped as my bag was full of Stollen and a heavy Tyrolean cake that is like a double density Christmas Pudding. Fortunately they looked very tasty and only mildly threatening on the X-Ray machine.
Travelling on BA means pre-booked seats so there is no scrum to get the best seating positions. It is also a bus transfer to the plane so there is no point at all in being first in the Boarding Queue. The only issue with waiting till last is finding space available in the overhead lockers for our bags. However, we opt for the front of economy and can put our bags in the almost empty Club Class racks. That is if we can lift TW's case up there!
A very jolly Captain welcomed us on board the 737. He sounded a bit like John Cleese. Amongst other things he warned us about possible potholes on our route, it was was quite reassuring that he let us know his co-pilot would be driving today, I think! Our rather humourless neighbour thought he had been on the whiskey. We made it to Gatwick OK with a very smooth landing. Have to say the BA experience is far superior to that on Ryanair. As long as the price is right it is worth flying the flag. Of course it is the competition from Ryanair and Easy that has made BA more affordable.
Electronic entry gates are always a challenge, a bit like ticket machines. Get the passport the right way up, stand in the right place, look straight at the haggard reflection. Who the hell is that! No wonder not many people use them and prefer the conventional human entry gates
Border Control seems to work much better since the improvements made for the Olympics and, with no baggage to collect, we were soon heading out of the North Terminal to pick up the waiting APH car park bus. Our little car was waiting for us in Copthorne so, before you could say Chris Rea, we were Driving Home for Christmas.

Austria in December 2013 - nothing but blue skies in Bad Hofgastein

Checking out the slopes in Gastein

Shadows lengthen in Bad Hofgastein

Skiline - One day's fun in the sun and snow

A week of sunny weather has meant we have had no excuse to take a crafty day off. An extra incentive to get out early, and stay out, is Skiline, a website that tracks every lift that you take and keeps a count of vertical metres. My average is about 10,000 metres a day which is higher than Everest and means I am currently 61st on the website. Sorry, have to go.....

The Aeroplan comes into morning view - time to stop?

Haitzingalm - Infinity Bar

The Kleine Scharte view

Meanwhile, the numbers of skiers on the slopes has started to increase and the week-enders have boosted numbers. There is a more urgency to the heavy clomp of ski boots climbing the steps when the local Austrian Saturday morning skiers make their way to the lift. Their approach is extremely purposeful. Certainly do not recommend getting in their way, even before they get on snow. Once up the top there is plenty of space on the pistes and no need to queue. With sunshine and no new snowfalls for a week the pistes are starting to get hard-packed and we are relying on the piste-bashers to do a good job overnight. 

Some of us struggle to get their ski's on snow though! They have changed the ski buses this year and this confused TW initially. I got a call from her the other day to say that she was at the Railway Station? Not sure how she was going to ski from Platform 1. Fortunately my morning bus, at 08:34, has not changed so I am normally on the ski's by 9am.
The hillside hostelries are now mostly open so we have been making our way around our favourites. Today, a plate of Spaghetti at the Haitzingalm was on the menu and TW just had to have a Strudel, it would be rude not to. We sat inside and watched the ski races but quite a few people were sitting outside working on their December suntans. It cools down pretty rapidly once the sun goes behind the mountains so we are normally heading home by around 3pm.

In Bad Hofgastein at the Advent Market

How about heading for the Advent Market for some Gluwein and Roast Chestnuts?

Bad Hofgastein Church

Austria - Early Season Skiing in Bad Hofgastein - December 2013

A Dream Start

A Giant Leap - From the Stubnerkogel to Bad Hofgastein

H4 to Bad Hofgastein

A view to the Schlossalm and the Bad Hofgastein Ski Area

Looking North in Gasteinertal

On the Weitmoser sixer lift on December 3rd

They brought forward the lift opening by one week to November 31st  to take advantage of this years early season snow.
We had pre-booked to fly here on the 3rd December so we could only watch on the webcams as the first skiers headed off on the newly groomed pistes. Not sure I would have been fit enough anyway as a windy day tangle with a falling beech tree had left me a bit bruised. However, we were up on the Schlossalm on the 4th December to kick of our season with what they call over here a 'Traumtag' or Dream Day. We bumped into some familiar people, not literally, and it was great to be back on snow.

Taking a breather on H1 

Sunday Lunch View from the Aeroplan

Ski Guides move off - its not always sunny here!

New snow on the revamped home run in Bad Gastein

First run of the day past the Maurachalm on H2

Panorama from the Kleine Scharte

Most of the runs are open now and the mountain restaurants are waiting. Only the guests are missing. December really is the best time of year to ski, don't tell anyone!

A new place in Bad Hofgastein - The Gastein Alm

A new Pub has opened, the Gastein Alm. It used to be a Pizza Restaurant but one of the local hotel owners has spent a small fortune on it. It's now a very smart Alm serving food. The opening party was very good. Unfortunately we could not stay long enough to take advantage of the free food and drink. I expect we will be back with Euros in hand before much more snow has passed under the ski's.

London - Royal Albert Hall - Carmina Burana - a view from the Chorus

A seat with the choir - 26th October 2013

In the cheap seats again

Royal Albert Hall in October

TW likes to make sure we have the occasional dose of Culture, bit like the winter flu jab. Where better to go than the iconic Royal Albert Hall. It is only an hour in the car, parking is easy and it is a keenly priced £18 for a comfy seat. Very reasonable when you have a top Orchestra, The Royal Philharmonic, and 500 singers to entertain you for the evening. I felt a bit under-dressed when we arrived as the seats next to us were occupied by elegant Ladies in posh frocks. When TW pointed out they were the choir and were the hired help for the evening I felt a lot more comfortable. Sitting alongside the choir is actually not too bad, have just to remember not to stand up when they do. Hearing them sing is also not a problem.

Take your seats

The programme contained familiar tunes. The warm up was the William Tell Overture. He was a Swiss chap he used to sit an Apple on his son's head and shoot at it with a cross-bow. Not sure that it was responsible parenting. When I hear the music it conjures up a clear image of the son hoofing it through the Alps pursued by a demented bowman. The Conductor definitely got into the spirit of things and was very red-faced by the end of the chase. Next up was a Violin Concerto by Bruch with a tall soloist in need of a hair cut. Beautifully played but could not quite understand why he was given a bunch of flowers at the end? Nobody else got one.
The main event of the evening was Carmina Burana by Carl Orff and this is where the massive choir came into play. One section was the Southend Boys Choir, they were sitting at the front so their teachers could keep an evil eye on them. One of the proud Dad's was sitting next to us. The Essex boys did well, as did our neighbouring ladies. The Tenor behaved bizarrely, they made him stand by the Organ and when he finished he fell over and hid. I thought he sounded OK but he was obviously embarrassed. The Irish Soprano was very good but she did not get any flowers, not sure why? Like to think the long-haired lanky violinist gave her his bunch.
The music is very familiar but the words are a bit obscure. Some lines are Latin, others are German. Not sure why Herr Orff changed language part way through. He probably had a difficult childhood, can imagine what his nickname would be in English! TW printed out the words with a translation into English for me to read as the performance progressed. Have to say I wish she hadn't. It was all a bit racy and probably should be rated as PG and totally unsuitable for the Primary School lads from Southend. A lot of Virgins were 'seized by desire' from my reading of it. I also found it a wee bit disrespectful to Her Majesty. One line read:

Were all the world mine
From the sea to the Rhine
I would starve myself of it
so that the Queen of England
might lie in my Arms

Not sure she would be amused and would probably tell him to 'Buzzer' Orff. What is more worrying is that her own Royal Orchestra was playing it in her own Royal Hall. Put small Apples on their heads I say!

Austria - Autumn on the Schlossalm - end of 'Summer' season in Bad Hofgastein

Wrapping up in October

Life at the top of the Kleine Scharte

With the lifts closing for the short break before the ski season starts in December we made the most of the Schlossalm. The next time we will be at the top we will be lumbered with all the ski paraphernalia and will be nervously, or excitedly, making the first turns. A walk down the mountain today is a stroll through the seasons. From a foot of snow on high to sunny pastures below. And then to the village with people sitting out at coffee shops enjoying the warm sun. Its a hard life in the Mountains in October.

Footsteps in the snow - walking down in the sunshine

Valley Panorama - on the snow line

Sitting comfortably to view the valley

Untere Haitzinglam - closed until next Summer

A circular walk from home to Angertal and back

Which way now?

Crossing a stream in Autumn

Autumn Colours in Bad Hofgastein 

A view to the Hohe Tauern

On the hill - making the most of the green grass and
 sunshine before the hay and the Winter Barn

Austria - Autumn - In and out of the Gastein Valley - on the bike to Schwarzach and back

 Views from the bike in October 2013 

Stunning views on the way to Schwarzach

Schwarzach is out of the Gastein Valley on the Salzach River. It's an easy ride down the valley on the cycle path and then through the tunnels at the end. Once out of the valley its an undulating ride through woods and past farms to the small town of Schwarzach. Luckily it has a few Bakerei so it was no trouble to find coffee and a cake. The route home is a little steeper as Schwarzach sits at around 600m Altitude and Bad Hofgastein at 850m but it is still a pleasant ride with great views. Before the tunnels were built at the mouth of the Gastein Valley, in the early seventies, the road took a perilous route high up on the edge of the river gorge. The road is not passable today because of a massive rock fall but it's possible to take a look at the narrow and steep track.

It's very good for encouraging vertigo and not much else. There is little chapel about half way, I imagine everyone got out to pray on the way round. I was quite happy to return to the Klammtunnel and the sweet smell of carbon monoxide and diesel fumes. The tunnel is about 1600m long and uphill but it has a dedicated  and safe bike lane.

Autumn views on the Farm

My four legged friend and two wheels

View near Schwarzach

Back in the Gastein Valley - the view near Unterberg

The 'bottomless' gorge at the mouth of the Valley

Before the tunnel - The old road - only for the brave

Schwarzach

Back in the Kur Park Bad Hofgastein

Austria - Autumn in the Gastein Valley - A Walk to the Poserhohe and Bad Hofgastein

A walk from Gruner Baum (1000m) to Bad Hofgastein (850m) via Poserhohe (1505m)  - 17th October 2013

A welcome sight, the flag is raised at Poserhohe - our lunch stop

Poserhohe is not a Mountain Restaurant we visit very often but we do enjoy it when we make the effort.
We had decided on one of the less arduous routes so, after a bus ride to Gruner Baum, we walked down towards the Hohenweg and followed the Yellow signpost off and up to the right. The route up is mainly in the forest and seems wild and remote. The walking path is fairly steep and winding and we alternated between this and a rough tractor trail that also zig-zagged up the mountain. Pretty sure I would not want to cycle or drive up, particularly as its currently crossed by fallen trees. It took us about 90 minutes to reach Poserhohe, our lunch stop. It is a lovely old place and it probably has some of the best views in the valley from its outside tables. The views from inside are not bad either.

Panoramic Views on the way up

On the trail to Poserhohe

Not a vast array of dishes on offer but a longer menu than in the Summer Mountain Alms. The traditional Ham and Cheese plates are supplemented by soups and stews. Restocking is tricky as provisions are taken up to this inaccessible spot on a small cable car. My plate of ham with peppers, horseradish and gherkins hit the right spot. The others enjoyed a nice hot soup.

Inside View

Empty seats in the front row outside

On the slide at Poserhohe - for kids of all ages

The head of  the  Gastein Valley with Bad Gastein in the foreground

After a very pleasant break we set off for Bad Hofgastein. We had discovered on a previous visit up here that my expensive laminated map has a big error. On that occasion we headed uphill trying to find a route on the map that did not exist. Nice walk but very frustrating and added at least an hour to our planned three hour walk. This time we made certain and headed North as soon as we left the Poserhohe on a mainly downhill route. Quite a bit of snow lay at intervals so we needed to be sure-footed as we made our way through the forest. However, apart from a couple of gullies it was easy walking. The best bit was flat section where we bounced along on a path covered in pine needles. The route then took us onto a Forest Road that descended, first through the woods and then through Deer Parkland and Farms. We were on the west facing side of the valley so we had the benefit of the late afternoon sun as we ambled along.

Flat forest walk

TW on the walk - her sneeze can fell trees

Snow capped Graukogel on the left and the Sportgastein Mountain on the right

Looking North towards Bad Hofgastein

Magnificent Stag - best stay clear I reckon

Graukogel - not a grey mountain today

Poser cow - a beautiful animal in a lovely land

At Gadauern we joined the quiet undulating back road to Bad Hofgastein.
Gruner Baum to Poserhohe took us about 90 mins. There is a quicker route that goes straight up from Gruner Baum and takes about one hour. The walk from Poserhohe to Bad Hofgastein took a fairly leisurely 3 hours. Ready for a cup of tea!