Postcard from Bad Hofgastein in December 2010

It's a Winter wonderland

Bad Hofgastein Church from the Berglift

Along the Ache

Shopping trip

Graukogel - long distance

The Kur Park next to our Apartment

The Schlossalm Ski Area in Bad Hofgastein opened on the 4th December 2010.

Pre-christmas skiing was a bit of a revelation last year.
Well, it’s even better this year as the snow has landed earlier
Didn’t quite make the first lift as I had to pick up my skis after their service.
Have been using the same pair of boots for about the last 20 years but today I put my feet into the new pair that TW bought me last June for my birthday.

First day on snow in Bad Hofgastein
No people apart from us!

Maurach Alm - A quiet spot to stay on H2

On the Piste again - 30th November 2010

Wagrain Rolling!

Wagrain - looking towards Flachau and Schladming

The season 2010/2011 is underway. Berwyn gave me a lift to Wagrain, about 45 mins from Bad Hofgastein . With five lifts open on a cold but bright sunny day we had a great time. The snow was a mix of natural and artificial, the skiing a mix between the awkward and the rusty. Hadn’t expected to ski until Saturday when our local slopes open and haven’t had my ski bindings adjusted for the new boots yet.



Traditional Lunch



Apple Strudel for afternoon tea.

 So the old boots, held together with duck tape, got a final airing.

It was really quiet, just a couple of school classes in the morning and almost empty in the afternoon.  Found a few 'death cookies' on one stretch but the slopes were beautifully groomed, not a bare patch in sight. A very nice hut was open at the top, the staff are particularly friendly at the start of the season, the smiles will get a bit forced by the end of April when the season ends. Massive Strudel portions!

Paradise Regained!

The Grand Tour of Italy - Venice - a day on the water then a trip to the snow

Ferries, Bus and Train

Home Insurance must be pricey

On the ferry to everywhere

Rialto Bridge - more shops!

At Venice St. Lucia we headed straight ahead and down the steps to the ferry boat quay. A 24 hrs ‘season ticket’ costs 18 Euros and allows unlimited travel on all the routes. It was a bright, sunny crisp day and TW was on a mission to travel as many nautical miles as possible! Our first cruise was along a couple of canals to Crea and our B & B, Ca’ Fontanea in Cannaregio, another booking success for yours truly as it was lovely. It was away from the canal and set in a small piazza and cost 65 Euros.

I am afraid I made it a bit of a boo-boo as we approached the Ca’ Fontanea, or more accurately a poo-poo!. I was towing TW’s wheeled suitcase and my route took me straight through a very fresh doggy doo-dah. This, you will appreciate, tempered the excitement of our arrival! TW’s first task, before we could go for lunch, was to clean her wheelie, Aaah yuk! At least we found a use for the bidet!

We had spotted a nice little Trattoria between the ferry stop and the Hotel so we headed there. It was the size of an average living room and very Italian. The only other foreigners were a friendly couple from over the hill in Cookham UK! We just had Spaghetti Bolognese with wine, they had the full menu which include very bony rabbits. After a very pleasant lunch we set off on our tour of the city and the surrounding islands!

The closest TW got to Gondola

The centre was extremely busy on this sunny November Saturday. St Marks Square was partially flooded; so that’s why the shops sell such smart designer wellies. Anyway, lots to see, including the sea. The ferry boats seem to go out into the ocean, past enormous cruise ships. Eventually darkness fell and we could start our journey back to the Hotel. I avoided putting my foot in anything and, after a quick turn-around, we headed off for a recommended fish restaurant. We should have taken the Sat Nav as negotiating Venice and its intertwined streets and canals is not easy at all. Some of the side streets are dead ended by a canal with no crossing or footpath. Swimming is not an option! After walking for about an hour we gave up the search and dived into a nearby pizzeria. Apologies to the restaurant we had booked, we did try to get to you but I blame the debilitating effect of circumnavigating the Northern Adriatic on a cold afternoon without food or drink. At least we saw a bit more of Venice than we would have otherwise and TW met, and misunderstood, lots of friendly people as we asked directions. Glad we stopped off in Venice, it’s touristy in the centre but, in totality, a very different experience. Can’t imagine what it must be like to live here. No sitting in the shade under a spreading chestnut, no bike rides, no grass to cut, no car, no hills to climb. A nice place for an old person to retire perhaps?

Tourists in Venice

Austria here we come

Next stop Austria. There’s a luxury coach from Venice to Villach; where we would pick up the train again. I think it would normally be a train all the way but they are digging tunnels under the Alps or something. The bus trip was value at 29 Euros, we travelled First Class on this leg. It only cost 4 Euros extra and we could make ourselves a coffee or tea or help ourselves to fruit juice. It was a double-decker bus and the cattle class customers upstairs were really packed in. We had a table with lap top socket and loads of room. For much of the way our only fellow customers were a young South African couple, she had never seen snow so was pretty excited. It was a great journey across the plains to Udine, our only stop after Venice, and then we climbed up into the snow covered muntains en route for Villach. Our Austrian driver was a bit of a tiger and delighted in passing the snow ploughs even in the tunnels. Glad we were downstairs! It took about 3hrs 20 min for the journey.
The train was waiting for us in Villach and we headed off on the hour long trip to Bad Gastein through the Tauern Tunnel. This cost 16E40; in second class naturally.

Speeding through Austria

Austria looked beautiful from the train, the trees were heavily laden with snow and there were loads of people out walking. They were probably taking their first opportunity of the season to walk in their winter wonderland. We were soon through the Tunnel under the Tauern Mountains and back 'home' in Bad Hofgastein after our hugely enjoyable 5 hour journey. What a difference a day makes! Let's keep the Italian theme going and head for a Pizza at Hansi's!

Bad Hofgastein in the evening

The Grand Tour of Italy - Florence - Only for paupers

Florence

Round and about in Florence

Ponte Vecchio

We’ve been to Italy a few times but my previous knowledge of Florence was limited to the Magic Roundabout. I’d booked a Hotel near the station but was a bit worried it was too cheap. The Hotel Elite at 40 Euros per night turned out to be fine and was our comfortable home for the next two nights. One of the advantages of staying at cheaper accommodation is that the restaurants or Trattorias they recommend are at the value end of the price range. For lunch we went to the Restaurant of the 100 paupers - Ostaria dei Centopoveri in the Via Palazzuola. Apparently back in time the church used to provide meals for 100 poor people. We had to pay 10 Euros each but it was brilliant. They have a 10 Euro ‘set meal’ at lunchtime. I had fresh spaghetti with tomato and then a main of mixed meats on a skewer. Wine, mineral water and coffee were also included. Suitably fed we headed off to the main tourist area. There are so many shops in Florence, it's best to go there late in the evening when they are closed and TW cannot be tempted. Ponte Vecchio, the Iconic Bridge is a case in point, it’s lined with Jewellery shops and Goldsmiths! Despite such temptations we had a good wander around and spent little, although a beer and a tea in that area cost 14 Euros! In the evening we went to another lovely Trattoria, Il Contadino, also in the Via Palazzuola. For 13 Euros I had Minestrone Soup, not with pasta but with bread, followed by Swordfish, really nice. TW had a Raviolli starter with Swordfish to follow. Wine and mineral water were included. Traditional Florentine food is quite simple and, in the right place, excellent value.

The local buses are useful, you can buy a 90 mins. ticket for 1Euro25. We made up our own tour jumping on and off the buses. We returned to the Centopoveri for our Anniversary evening meal. We had Fiorentina Beef which is a local speciality. The set meal cost us 28 Euros each and was excellent.

Beggars belief

The Duomo

I think I have incurred a few gypsy curses. Tourists have to run the gauntlet of some fearsome individuals as they enter and leave the Renaissance Churches and other sights. One particular creature sitting on the entrance steps of a famous church would frighten the Medusa. She held out a paper cup hoping I would put something in it – not likely. There are also begging men who lie on the pavement with their heads to the stones and their backsides in the air. They look as they are watching telly through the cracks in the stones. Their hands are upturned to receive offerings from the tourists. I suppose some people must give them money?

We didn’t go into many of the attractions, too costly and too crowded, but Florence is a great place to wander around, the locals are very friendly and hospitable.

Next stop Venice.

The Grand Tour to Italy - Pisa

Lucky Wednesday and O’Leary’s Aeroplane
There was a time when the Aristocrats went on a Grand Tour to Italy, probably by stage coach and latterly the Iron Road. Today our intrepid, but impoverished travellers set off on today’s equivalent - an equally tortuous trip on the M25 and Ryanair.

When you have a plane to catch the M25 contrives to be at its most congested. Today was no exception. Stationary traffic from junction 24 on the traffic news should have read Junction 17. The consequences of missing our flight to Pisa, where we were booked into a hotel, would have been very costly. Should we turn off or stick with it? We stuck and with blood pressures climbing we eventually crept our way to Junction 24 and, would you believe it, the road cleared miraculously and we made it to Stansted in good time. Must be our lucky day!
Case Sensitive
The next hurdle is to get through Ryanair check-in with our hand and pocket baggage. Being Ryanair regulars we know the routine. Some way ahead of us was a foreign ‘yoof’ who took exception to having to measure his bag. The bag gauge is a tubular frame you can force your bag into without too much difficulty even if it is over-size. The problem comes when you try to remove it. It’s like trying to get a bone off a Rottweiller!

It grips the bag like a vice. ‘Look it fits’ said the dude, ‘now remove it punk’ said the check-in Lady in as many words. He went blue in the face but eventually pulled it free. She let him pass but he let off a stream of expletives as he headed off to rejoin his family. Right you are not travelling! So Daddy and the boy from Brazil were left behind whilst Mummy and young daughter continued to Pisa. Meanwhile I had passed through with a jolly ‘good evening’, a bag also a bit large, an extra bag with refreshments for the flight, a book and several newspapers. TW was stopped. After removing a couple of books she also managed to ram a bag into the tubular jaws but couldn’t pull it out. So, yours truly,  had to re-cross the line and pull Excalibur free whilst looking as inconspicuous as possible. So with books under arm we very quietly tiptoed off towards the 737. A flight to Pisa and then a 10 Euro taxi  and we were in our Hotel. Pisa airport is almost in the town! Saw the first snow of winter on the shoulders of our Night Porter. With Olympic standard dandruff he should have worn a lighter suit. Text from TK - Spurs have won 3-0 and into the next round – M25 a distant memory. Hotel was fine, Terminus and Plaza near the Railway Station (78 Euros inc. breakfast).

Saving TW from a sore head!
(Think I am turning Japanese)

Lean Times in Pisa
Next morning took the bus to the Tower of Pisa, the most famous case of subsidence in the world. TW had been there before as a child. Her Mum would not let her walk within half a mile of it in case it fell on her head! Must let TMIL know it’s still standing. The Cathedral is pretty impressive and free to enter.

Quite a number of tourists still around in November. A lot of them Japanese. Not sure how much interest the average Japanese salary man has in renaissance architecture and Christian iconography; my experience is that they would be happier in a pub singing Karaoke. Anyway they were taking plenty of pictures to show the folks at home. They amused themselves by pretending to hold up the tower, can you believe it, how childish! We headed off for Florence by train, it only takes an hour and costs 5Euro60.

A spin in the Thames Valley – no tumble and dry

Dry cycle on a wet weather Wednesday - 47km

The Wednesday forecast wasn’t great at all. The sky was grey as I set off for the rendezvous; with rain threatening. I knew the others were hardy souls so I expected a good turnout regardless of the weather.
And so it was. Over a dozen headed off towards Cookham and climbed up towards Winter Hill past the golf course. I stayed at the back and practised my heel turns as we headed through Cookham Dean and its posh properties. The Turkeys at Copas Farm gobbled and trotted as we passed them by; didn’t wish them a Merry Christmas! The route took us through Pinkneys Green and down Dungrove Hill and under the A404, passing very quickly the notorious lay-bay area, and down to the Henley Road. We turned left on Honey Lane and up the incline towards the Dewdrop Inn, a pub I haven’t visited for 30 odd years; not the beering hour yet so not an option today. Peter took us on a cut-through to Warren Row and a good quiet ride to Remenham where we hit the Henley Road and bombed down White Hill. Fish and Chips at the Henley Tea Rooms? Why not!

I’d made it to lunch without any tumbles. The promised rain showered down when we were tucking into our fish dinners - another lucky Wednesday – but more threatened as we took to the road again. We crossed the Thames and headed home up Remenham Lane as far as the Flower Pot where we turned left for Mill End and Hambleden. That meant a steep climb out of the valley from Hambleden for the second time this week! Never mind, pretty much downhill all the way home after that. We beat the rain, only two guys got punctures and there were no embarrassing pedal malfunctions. Not sure what will happen if I use my mountain bike (with flat pedals) and then revert to the tourer with cleats? That's a problem for another day!

Cycle pedal perils - up and own in the Chilterns

Putting your foot in it....and taking it out again!

Chilterns in Autumn

Being mainly a Mountain-biker and Tourer I had never bothered with cleats. I thought they were only for ‘proper’ cyclist. However when I started to ride out with the group I found that I was the only one with toe-clips. I could keep up on the hills OK but figured I was less efficient than the others. So I thought I’d better give them a go. I actually had the necessary pedals, shoes and cleats stashed in the garage. To be honest it was partly cowardice that stopped me using them. It’s not a comfortable thought having your feet locked to the pedal with a device similar to a ski binding.

I decided that I would try with just one pedal first. So propped up against a wall I tried to get my shoe and cleat into the binding. Darn tricky, even with a mirror on the ground so I could see where the cleat was relative to the pedal. Disengaging was even more difficult, you have to twist the heel outwards. I found that when I twisted my foot it moved in the shoe and I stayed ‘in the pedal’.

Anyway, after tightening my laces to achieve a vice-like grip on my feet, I decided to give it a go on the street. Off I toddled and things went swimmingly, at first! When I approached a junction I would attempt to release my shoe foot 20m before so, by the time I reached the white line, I was able to put my foot on the ground. But then, after about 15km I forgot all about my clamped foot and the need to twist my heel. I stopped to take a photo and promptly toppled to the ground still wearing my bike. Oh dear, or a less polite equivalent!

With hindsight I should probably have tried my right foot first because I always put my left down first. So I decided I needed to either get stabilisers or revert to clips.

I reverted to clips and confided in Andy, one of the group on the next ride. My Samaritan had the answer. Slacken off the tension! I hadn’t even noticed the Allen screw, doh! So I wound down the tension from what was probably a race setting and had my eureka moment. My foot now popped in and out effortlessly. Why didn’t I think of that?

November in the the Chilterns

So I headed off on a test ride with bindings on both feet. I still needed to remember the twist but at least now I was fairly confident that, even with temporary amnesia, I could extract my foot before hitting the deck!

Heading for the Hills - 54 km

Chiltern bike ride

Up and down

I chose a particularly hilly route, not difficult in the Chilterns. My thinking being that if I was going to have a problem with de-tensioned bindings it would be on the climbs. Made lots of stops to take Autumn photos and practice the dismount. Brilliant day, cold but clear. And, as I reached home, in the darkness .... by George, I think he's got it! Old dogs can learn new tricks! Right, ready for the next Wednesday ride!

Marlow to Billingbear and back - 72km

Another lucky Wednesday!

After a couple of really naff wet and windy days the sky cleared to allow the sun to shine on our Wednesday ride.

A rendezvous at the Bourne End Garden Centre is, I’ve found, typically followed by a climb up Harvest Hill towards Hedsor and Burnham Beeches. So the coffee refills are followed by the coughy uphills! It certainly seems like a lung-buster on a cold November morning. Anyway, onward through the Burnham Village High Street on Market Day towards the Olympic 2012 Rowing Centre and our Thames crossing near Monkey Island. From there we passed through Fifield and headed up to Drift Road and turned left towards the Great Park. After about 2km we turned right down Winkfield Lane and traversed, on a cross-country route, towards Billingbear Golf Club where a gammon steak with chips awaited me. It looked a nice little pay and play club. There a nine hole course (£8.50) and a par 3 course. From there we headed off home via Shurlock Row, Walthan St Lawrence, Maidenhead and Cookham. To be honest, without the organised ride, I would not venture out on my bike at 09:30 on a cold November day. So it’s a good discipline as well as being great fun.

Marlow circular bike ride - flats in the Chiltern Hills - 50km

Met up at Bergers, a cafe in Marlow, for today’s pre-ride coffee. The place hasn’t changed much in the 20 years or so that have elapsed since my last visit. The group headed off into the Chilterns on one of my favourite routes. Two guys punctured and we lost about 45 mins which meant targets for lunch had to be revised. I was just happy it wasn’t me holding up proceedings. For November, it was quite a nice warm day and there are worse places to hang around than Hambleden. There's a coffee stop at the Post Office with recommended cakes and there is always the Stag and Huntsman if its past the beering hour. We headed over the Thames weir Mill End and then down Remenham Lane to Henley for an early lunch at the Henley Tea Rooms. Never a hardship, like most of the group of eight, I had Fish and Chips including a coffee for £6.90. Then we headed off up a quiet Greys Lane towards Greys Court, a National Trust property that’s worth a visit. We did not stop but carried on up Rocky Lane to the Nettlebed Estate. There is a right of way through this property owned by the Fleming Family of James Bond fame. Casino Royale was conceived here apparently. We turned right when we hit the main road but after a short distance took the first left down Bix Hill towards Lower Assendon.

Fingest Village on a summer morning

From Lower Assendon we gasped up the steep hill that is Dobson’s Lane towards Frieth and then onto Turville Heath and Fingest. The beech trees looked absolutely stunning in the Autumn sunshine as we headed for Frieth and Marlow. Won’t be long before the trees will be bare and I expect the scenery will be more stark when I pass this way next time.

Cycle to Chalfont St Giles via the Beeches 73km

Bucks in the Autumn

Braved the morning rain and headed off towards Dorney. Over the hill to Cookham and then along the Green Route to Maidenhead. On past the posh riverside houses towards Bray and through the Churchyard to the M4 bridge path. The Olympic Rowing Lake soon appeared and then the Walled Garden Centre. Already travelled 19km just to get to the meeting point, could be in for a tough day. The weather forecasters got it right and out came the sun. Joined the group for a coffee and then set off with them towards Chalfont St Giles via Burnham Beeches, Farnham Common and Gerrards Cross. Beautiful in the woods with the sun glistening on the wet leaves. Nearly wiped out by a driver using our quiet road as a rat-run, back roads were a lot quieter before Sat Nav! Had lunch in the Fox and Hounds, at Chalfont St Giles before heading home via Beaconsfield and Cookham. Nice ride, plenty of hills so happy to be home.

Marlow to Henley and back on a bike - 50km

Autumn cycling in the Chilterns - 20km to Henley and 30km back to Marlow

Monday morning, a cold, clear and windless day. Headed into the Chilterns. Some very plucky pheasants on the road, never seen so many. Reminds me of a tongue twister......

One smart fellow; he felt smart.

Two smart fellows; they felt smart.

Three smart fellows; they all felt smart.

Try and say it....

The leaves are just turning and the deer are rutting, it must be Autumn.

On the hill between Hambleden and Fawley

Henley on Thames

One particular Stag was making an awful din whilst chasing his herd around a field near Luxters Winery.

Met TW for lunch at the Henley Tea Rooms in Thameside, Henley. Cycled back via some really good place names, Badgemoor, Bix, Bix Bottom, Middle Assendon, Stonor, Turville Heath, Fingest and Frieth. Roads were quiet, apart from the pheasants of course. Glorius day.

Thames Valley Cycle Tour 82km

A nice way to get weary

Overnight frost was being cleared by bright sunshine as I headed off for my first ride with the CTC. I joined recently to get more access to info on Touring from their website. The local section, CTC South Bucks, wrote and invited me out for a ride. The morning meet was at Bourne End Garden Centre. Doesn’t sound great but it has a really nice cafe hidden inside. Just £1.50 for a mug of coffee with unlimited refills. Plenty of tasty looking cakes and sponges to choose from. It's a a favourite meeting point and I can see why. The cycling group that assembled was friendly and there was a bit of banter about the leader being obsessed with hill-climbing and that it could be tough - but they would wait for me!

So I set off, in a group of about fifteen, with some trepidation up Harvest Hill towards Burnham Beeches. From there the route took us past Cliveden to Taplow, along the Jubilee River to Windsor and then across the Great Park to Ascot Racecourse. Windsor Great Park was beautiful in the Autumn sunshine with the leaves just starting to turn, the lush green grass and no traffic.The Racecourse was about half-way, around 40km, and time to start heading back. We headed for another Garden Centre near Winkfield for lunch. I was starving as usual. After our feeding stop we continued on the back-roads to Binfield, through the ‘Walthams’ to Pinkneys Green, Cookham Dean and back to Marlow. 

Have to say it was good fun, riding in a pack is much easier than solo and there’s probably safety in numbers on the few busy sections. Good job I've done plenty of cycling recently, although there was the option to turn back at any time. No worries with the hills, maybe next time.

Queen Elizabeth - at home in Southampton

Thought we would make a detour into Southampton on the way home to take a look at the new Cunard ship. Very impressive.

The new Queen Elizabeth

TW dreams of going on the maiden yoyage but unfortunately we are the wrong side of the tracks and the ship. QE was loading and getting ready to sail on her first trip.

The Waverley was also in Southampton water

The Waverley is the last sea-going Paddle Steamer in the world. Probably more our style.

Wight lightning - day trip to the Isle

We made a quick trip over to the Isle of Wight to visit TW’s Uncle. Glorious day to see a lovely place. Over on the favourite Ferry from Lymington to Yarmouth then round the south via Waterstone and the Military Road.


  

Disabled parking is free on the Island, here is why!

Lymington Mud

Not a cloud in the sky all day. TW and TMIL had a good old chat with Uncle and we all had a nice pub lunch in Shanklin.On a bright October day cannot think of a better place to be. The only hitch, we paid £2 for parking only to discover that TMIL's disabled badge entitled us to free parking on the Isle of Wight.